4x raidiator failure in 3 years
I've replace 4 radiators in 3 years (all new, by ford) in my 1997 f150 4wd. Ford dealer says he has 5 other vehicles, all 1997's, that have had the same problem. All leak from the same place, i.e passenger side where core attaches to tank. Electrolysis suspected by dealer; system flushed, etc. Nothing works. Radiator man says need a full system purge and electrolysis arrestor, voltage sponge, smart ground with diode and sacrificial radiator cap. He's been in business since'48. After the second radiator, I read somewhere that there is a bracket problem, not allowing the radiator to float when the body frame is tweaked by stress. Anyone have a similar problem that has been resolved? Thanks!
Last edited by justicebob; Mar 25, 2010 at 01:23 PM.
I have a 97 5.4L Extended Cab. After 100K I, like you, killed 2 radiators in less than 2 years. Radiator supplier said it was electrolysis but 'wasn't in the business of fixining electrical problems', so I took it to a reputable auto electrician. There was a slight current leak that spiked on increased rev but it was within operating range tolerance.
A year later my alternator died. I replaced it, thinking it might have been the electrlysis culprit and forgot about it. I hadn't learned enough to know that electrolysis can't be 'switched off' but remains in the surface of the cooling system/engine metal.
A year later the third rad developed a leak in the same spot as yours. For years I kept coolant/water at the level the leaker would accept and just drove it thinking something else would eventually kill the truck. It would run hot in slow-go traffic but even when towing and hauling, the Triton lived fine and was a steadfast workhorse on half coolant.
At 280K with replacement of 7 coil packs ($40 each), 3 radiators ($150 each) and 1 alternator ($120) she still RUNS PERFECTLY so I asked the dealer about the problem. He services the law enforcement and fire fleet for my city and county outside Atlanta. On recommendation by the Ford factory rep who got it from the factory radiator supplier, they religiously add 2 boxes of Wylie's Sugar Free Lemonade powder after each flush and have not lost a radiator or corroded engine. He has several hundred problem-free vehicles to his credit. He was adamant that onlt the Lemonade works. At a dollar per box it is cheap (albeit wacky) insurance. If I have another rad problem, I'll check in here.
A year later my alternator died. I replaced it, thinking it might have been the electrlysis culprit and forgot about it. I hadn't learned enough to know that electrolysis can't be 'switched off' but remains in the surface of the cooling system/engine metal.
A year later the third rad developed a leak in the same spot as yours. For years I kept coolant/water at the level the leaker would accept and just drove it thinking something else would eventually kill the truck. It would run hot in slow-go traffic but even when towing and hauling, the Triton lived fine and was a steadfast workhorse on half coolant.
At 280K with replacement of 7 coil packs ($40 each), 3 radiators ($150 each) and 1 alternator ($120) she still RUNS PERFECTLY so I asked the dealer about the problem. He services the law enforcement and fire fleet for my city and county outside Atlanta. On recommendation by the Ford factory rep who got it from the factory radiator supplier, they religiously add 2 boxes of Wylie's Sugar Free Lemonade powder after each flush and have not lost a radiator or corroded engine. He has several hundred problem-free vehicles to his credit. He was adamant that onlt the Lemonade works. At a dollar per box it is cheap (albeit wacky) insurance. If I have another rad problem, I'll check in here.
Buy the HD radiators. Problem solved. I switched long ago. Also do the big 3 upgrade and your electrolysis problem will go away.. 198K and only on the second radiator. Its been in there since 07. Never runs hotter than 196 in traffic with the a/c on

