What to look at buying a used '97 F150XL
#1
What to look at buying a used '97 F150XL
Found a '97 in a nearby town for sale. Rang the guy up and he says it's running well. Sounds like a nice old man, said he's getting a hip replacement and can't work the clutch pedal at the moment. So I'm going to go take a look on Wednesday.
205,000KM for $2500 (Canadian).
I've had a quick look around this forum and my searching skills aren't turning up much information for prospective buyers, more for current owners!
According to the VIN linked to the ad, and the FAQ at the top of this forum it's:
4WD Super Cab Styleside
V8 4.6L SOHC MFI w/EECV
So what should I look for in this particular model of truck? Other than what I would usually check - fluids, body panels, wheel wells and how well taken care of the interior appears.
Hopefully it's not a stinker and a waste of a 2 hour drive!
205,000KM for $2500 (Canadian).
I've had a quick look around this forum and my searching skills aren't turning up much information for prospective buyers, more for current owners!
According to the VIN linked to the ad, and the FAQ at the top of this forum it's:
4WD Super Cab Styleside
V8 4.6L SOHC MFI w/EECV
So what should I look for in this particular model of truck? Other than what I would usually check - fluids, body panels, wheel wells and how well taken care of the interior appears.
Hopefully it's not a stinker and a waste of a 2 hour drive!
#2
Senior Member
Specifically rust. Rust in the snow belt can be daunting for the gen 10's. Look real good starting at the rockers, cab corners and lower bed panels.
Although these engines are fairly resilient, they need a good maintenance regimen to go the distance. Ask about oil consumption, change intervals and when the fuel pump was last changed (it's good to know). Some use oil, but don't let that guide your decision. Ford has said, these engines may use 1 quart per one thousand miles and be perfectly fine. Quite a few use oil, just be aware that it's normal. It might even be that most do, but hardly any that actually use 1 quart per thousand. You'll easily get 200,000 miles from the V8's when maintenance correctly. I'm almost at 340,000 miles w/no problems except for a cold knock occasionally, heads have never been off this engine.
Although these engines are fairly resilient, they need a good maintenance regimen to go the distance. Ask about oil consumption, change intervals and when the fuel pump was last changed (it's good to know). Some use oil, but don't let that guide your decision. Ford has said, these engines may use 1 quart per one thousand miles and be perfectly fine. Quite a few use oil, just be aware that it's normal. It might even be that most do, but hardly any that actually use 1 quart per thousand. You'll easily get 200,000 miles from the V8's when maintenance correctly. I'm almost at 340,000 miles w/no problems except for a cold knock occasionally, heads have never been off this engine.
#4
Awesome. If he doesn't know when thee fuel pump has been done should I get on it right away? If it's in decent enough nick I don't mind putting some cash into it right from the start to make sure it stays that way.
#5
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
It's not a really pressing issue. I have 220k miles on mine on the factory pump.
#6
Senior Member
X2^^^ The pumps on these trucks are pretty durable. I wouldn't make it an issue at all.
#7
Senior Member
X3 Definitely not pressing. In no way should it be in the decision making. Supposedly the life span is 90,000 miles which was about right for my first one.
My second pump has over 200,000 on it. There's just a lot of fuel pump threads, figured it would be good know and something you could inquire about in conversation.
My second pump has over 200,000 on it. There's just a lot of fuel pump threads, figured it would be good know and something you could inquire about in conversation.
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#8
Senior Member
Actually the OP only has 127k Miles on his truck. He listed 205k KM. Very low mileage for a 97.
To the OP. Check the production date on the door post. If it is 7/96 or later, you have the best of the 97 model. If it is pre 7-96, then that truck is the early design of 97 and have some particular quirks that the models made after that date don't have.
To the OP. Check the production date on the door post. If it is 7/96 or later, you have the best of the 97 model. If it is pre 7-96, then that truck is the early design of 97 and have some particular quirks that the models made after that date don't have.
#9
I just bought one, same exact vehicle and year with 200,000 on the clock. I was fortunate in that it was a truck never used up north so no rust issues. I bought mine for $2,000 and I am not sure why but for some strange reason I have formed some kind of emotional attachment to this thing. I just wanted it for a work truck but I tend to spend my spare time doing body touch up work, interior work, and whatever I have time to do to make it look better.
The things requiring my attention when I first bought it are as follows;
A. I did have to change everything in the front brake system to include calipers but I knew that going in. The left front caliber had seized up.
B. Check the CV shaft boots, mine were torn but I also knew that going in. I changed the shafts...easy job.
C. Also check the sway bar links. Mine were both broke, again easy fix and I did it when I did the brakes and CV shafts.
D. The only thing I got a surprise on was the rear axle seals were leaking. The seals were cheap and again it was a fairly easy fix. Just look for grease and oil caked around that back of the rear wheels.
Keep in mind, when I say these jobs are an easy fix I have access to a lift. I am retired military and we have auto skills centers with lifts that save the young troops money taking their vehicles to a garage. Retired guys can use it too and although we do all our own work it is a godsend having access to a lift a my age. They have air tools as well and anytime you have access to those it saves hours busting loose rusted bolts when doing any work under a vehicle. Just something to keep in mind when I say "easy fix." These jobs would have definately been a little more difficult in the driveway but still very doable.
The things requiring my attention when I first bought it are as follows;
A. I did have to change everything in the front brake system to include calipers but I knew that going in. The left front caliber had seized up.
B. Check the CV shaft boots, mine were torn but I also knew that going in. I changed the shafts...easy job.
C. Also check the sway bar links. Mine were both broke, again easy fix and I did it when I did the brakes and CV shafts.
D. The only thing I got a surprise on was the rear axle seals were leaking. The seals were cheap and again it was a fairly easy fix. Just look for grease and oil caked around that back of the rear wheels.
Keep in mind, when I say these jobs are an easy fix I have access to a lift. I am retired military and we have auto skills centers with lifts that save the young troops money taking their vehicles to a garage. Retired guys can use it too and although we do all our own work it is a godsend having access to a lift a my age. They have air tools as well and anytime you have access to those it saves hours busting loose rusted bolts when doing any work under a vehicle. Just something to keep in mind when I say "easy fix." These jobs would have definately been a little more difficult in the driveway but still very doable.
Last edited by Hammer Mechanic; 11-08-2016 at 01:54 PM.
#10
Senior Member
Check list for used vehicle
Exterior
Windshield free of cracks
Body panel colors match
Magnet adheres to all steel body panels
Fresh paint job (if yes, it could be to conceal rust)
Seams where the trunk and hood close are properly aligned
Seams where doors and fenders meet are properly aligned
Free of body scratches
Free of body dents
Windshield wipers and blades fully functional
Headlights and directional lights intact and fully functional
Tires
Tires are a reputable brand name (Michelin, Bridgestone, Goodyear)
Tires are all of the same make
Tires are of free of any cuts, bubbles or cracks
Tread worn evenly (uneven wear indicates alignment and suspension problems)
Spare tire, jack and lug wrench on car and fully functional
Spare tire inflated
Engine
Free of fluid or oil leaks
Oil filler neck not coated with thick, black deposits
Battery terminals free of corrosion
Oil dip stick free of dark, black oil
Free of odors while engine is running
Exhaust pipe emissions are neither blue (indicates engine burns oil) or black (indicate excessive oil consumption)
Suspension
Vehicle rests levelly
When bouncing the vehicles corners, no creaking noises are made
All corners respond the same when bouncing
Interior
Seats unworn and free of cracks
All doors open and close freely
Trunk opens and closes freely
Lacks a heavy scent of air freshener (may indicate something is being concealed)
All gauges work
No dashboard warning lights remain illuminated
Stereo works
Heater works
Air conditioner works
Windshield wipers work
Windshield wiper fluid dispenses properly
All seats equipped with functional seat belts
All seats adjust properly
Power windows operate properly
Sunroof opens and closes properly (if applicable)
Car alarm works (if applicable)
Trunk and driver-side door lock and unlock with key
Hazard lights function properly
Headlights, including brights, work properly
Frame
Chassis is neither bent nor cracked
No signs of crumpling or straightening inside the trunk
Frame holes just inside outer edge clean and free of scratches
Automatic Transmission
Transmission fluid looks clean, not dirty or gritty (no indicates possible internal transmission problem)
Transmission neither slips nor delays when driving
Manual or Standard Trans
Each gear shifts smoothly
No grinding noises when in reverse
Brakes
Vehicle steers straight and does not pull to one side when applying brakes
Parking brake engages and disengages freely
No grinding noises when applying brakes
Wheels do not lock when applying antilock brakes (if applicable)
Steering
Vehicle does not drift to one side without prodding
Vehicle is stable; no shaking or vibrating
No resistance in the steering wheel when turning
No clicking or clunking when turning
Miscellaneous
Car manual located in the glove compartment
Instructions included for any accessories
Service and repair records available
Owner has title
RUST
Posted by EDMUNDS.
Exterior
Windshield free of cracks
Body panel colors match
Magnet adheres to all steel body panels
Fresh paint job (if yes, it could be to conceal rust)
Seams where the trunk and hood close are properly aligned
Seams where doors and fenders meet are properly aligned
Free of body scratches
Free of body dents
Windshield wipers and blades fully functional
Headlights and directional lights intact and fully functional
Tires
Tires are a reputable brand name (Michelin, Bridgestone, Goodyear)
Tires are all of the same make
Tires are of free of any cuts, bubbles or cracks
Tread worn evenly (uneven wear indicates alignment and suspension problems)
Spare tire, jack and lug wrench on car and fully functional
Spare tire inflated
Engine
Free of fluid or oil leaks
Oil filler neck not coated with thick, black deposits
Battery terminals free of corrosion
Oil dip stick free of dark, black oil
Free of odors while engine is running
Exhaust pipe emissions are neither blue (indicates engine burns oil) or black (indicate excessive oil consumption)
Suspension
Vehicle rests levelly
When bouncing the vehicles corners, no creaking noises are made
All corners respond the same when bouncing
Interior
Seats unworn and free of cracks
All doors open and close freely
Trunk opens and closes freely
Lacks a heavy scent of air freshener (may indicate something is being concealed)
All gauges work
No dashboard warning lights remain illuminated
Stereo works
Heater works
Air conditioner works
Windshield wipers work
Windshield wiper fluid dispenses properly
All seats equipped with functional seat belts
All seats adjust properly
Power windows operate properly
Sunroof opens and closes properly (if applicable)
Car alarm works (if applicable)
Trunk and driver-side door lock and unlock with key
Hazard lights function properly
Headlights, including brights, work properly
Frame
Chassis is neither bent nor cracked
No signs of crumpling or straightening inside the trunk
Frame holes just inside outer edge clean and free of scratches
Automatic Transmission
Transmission fluid looks clean, not dirty or gritty (no indicates possible internal transmission problem)
Transmission neither slips nor delays when driving
Manual or Standard Trans
Each gear shifts smoothly
No grinding noises when in reverse
Brakes
Vehicle steers straight and does not pull to one side when applying brakes
Parking brake engages and disengages freely
No grinding noises when applying brakes
Wheels do not lock when applying antilock brakes (if applicable)
Steering
Vehicle does not drift to one side without prodding
Vehicle is stable; no shaking or vibrating
No resistance in the steering wheel when turning
No clicking or clunking when turning
Miscellaneous
Car manual located in the glove compartment
Instructions included for any accessories
Service and repair records available
Owner has title
RUST
Posted by EDMUNDS.
Last edited by akdoggie; 11-08-2016 at 05:25 PM.