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1999 F150 ABS problem

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Old 06-27-2019, 07:42 PM
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Default 1999 F150 ABS problem

1999 F150 2WD, V6, 5-speed. ABS light is on and right rear wants to lock up under hard braking. Truck only has 150K on it and in very good to excellent condition. No recent brake work. Need help on how to fix.
Old 06-27-2019, 09:24 PM
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Sounds like a speed sensor.
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Old 06-27-2019, 10:15 PM
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Originally Posted by JCR 56
Sounds like a speed sensor.
My truck is a pretty plain Jane 2WD, V6 and I thought that the ABS was rear only but RockAuto has sensors identified as for both front and rear for 99 F150 V6... am I missing something?

Any help on locating where sensor(s) is/are and how to effect a repair will be greatly appreciated!
Old 06-28-2019, 07:10 AM
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These trucks have either front only ABS or all wheel ABS - never rear only. You tube has numerous videos on replacing the ABS sensor and ring.

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=f150+abs
Old 06-28-2019, 08:17 AM
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Originally Posted by 01-7700
These trucks have either front only ABS or all wheel ABS - never rear only. You tube has numerous videos on replacing the ABS sensor and ring.

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=f150+abs
That video is very helpful
Old 06-28-2019, 12:07 PM
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right rear wants to lock up under hard braking.
That's because the ABS system is offline due to an ABS fault.
These trucks have either front only ABS or all wheel ABS - never rear only
Uh, no. It's either RABS (rear-only, standard equipment for a '97) or 4WABS (optional 4-wheel). There's no such thing on a Ford pickup as front-only ABS.

Either look for the wiring for the front sensors or count the number of brake lines coming off the ABS' hydraulic control unit to see which system is installed.

If it's a RABS system, there's a jumper plug/wire behind the passenger-side kick-panel that you short to ground to get the RABS module to output a fault code by flashing the ABS light in the cluster. If you have 4WABS, then you have to use a scan tool (or equal) to read the fault codes from the ABS module

Failure of the sensor on the rear differential is pretty common. A quick check is to measure its resistance and see if it's opened up. A good sensor, off the top of my head, usually measures around 1.0K to 1.5K ohms. Bad sensors usually measure as open-circuited. You can check the front sensors the same way if you have 4WABS but don't have the right scanner. Sensors on a 2WD should measure 2.0K - 4.0K ohms and sensors for a 4WD should read 300-500 ohms.

Last edited by ProjectSHO89; 06-28-2019 at 12:32 PM.
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Old 06-28-2019, 01:06 PM
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Originally Posted by ProjectSHO89
That's because the ABS system is offline due to an ABS fault.
Uh, no. It's either RABS (rear-only, standard equipment for a '97) or 4WABS (optional 4-wheel). There's no such thing on a Ford pickup as front-only ABS.

Either look for the wiring for the front sensors or count the number of brake lines coming off the ABS' hydraulic control unit to see which system is installed.

If it's a RABS system, there's a jumper plug/wire behind the passenger-side kick-panel that you short to ground to get the RABS module to output a fault code by flashing the ABS light in the cluster. If you have 4WABS, then you have to use a scan tool (or equal) to read the fault codes from the ABS module

Failure of the sensor on the rear differential is pretty common. A quick check is to measure its resistance and see if it's opened up. A good sensor, off the top of my head, usually measures around 1.0K to 1.5K ohms. Bad sensors usually measure as open-circuited. You can check the front sensors the same way if you have 4WABS but don't have the right scanner. Sensors on a 2WD should measure 2.0K - 4.0K ohms and sensors for a 4WD should read 300-500 ohms.
Glad you said it.
Old 06-28-2019, 01:59 PM
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Also be aware that these trucks have issues with the brake lines rotting from the inside out. It is most common to fail on the front brakes, but rear can do it as well. When the hoses start to fail internally, it can create a one-way valve that can cause the fluid to return much slower up the hose - and that makes your brake (wheel cylinder) stay engaged until it bleeds off.
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Old 06-28-2019, 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by white89gt
Also be aware that these trucks have issues with the brake lines rotting from the inside out. It is most common to fail on the front brakes, but rear can do it as well. When the hoses start to fail internally, it can create a one-way valve that can cause the fluid to return much slower up the hose - and that makes your brake (wheel cylinder) stay engaged until it bleeds off.
Devils advocate: Just for clarification use both lines and hoses. Does this apply to metal and rubber?

Last edited by River1; 06-28-2019 at 03:03 PM.
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Old 06-30-2019, 02:19 AM
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I meant hoses, sorry! Thanks for catching that.


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