BillSF9c

100 lbs or so. Edit - maybe 150. A lil depends what was left attached.

squishware

Texas shipped a non-matching rear axle assembly after letting it sit for a week. I am not giving another salvage company the chance to disapoint me. So onto rebuilding existing rear.
Should I replace the bearing and seal on the non-problem side?

BillSF9c

I'm a neophyte... But I do. Like a shoe or sock. And if I'm doing an axle, I assume debris happened and may have circulated. I pull ALL the axle and differential bearings and clean the axle tube, get a new crush washer - and you can often skip the extra time and expense. So, it's part time and money, and part a judgement call. If the oil showed metal in it, then I'd go whole hog. If not, up to you. The rolled tube axle housing makes cleaning it a tedious chore. Metal PASTE collects at the weld. If a next time, I'd use a pressure washer.

squishware

What does the community think of Dorman axle parts or DANA SVL or excel richmond?

BillSF9c

My '01 4x4 axle was from Dorman I think, or Rock Auto.

Had I realized, I might have replace the 5 lug with 6 all around !!! More wheel selection and a slight update.

Jbrew

I chose to replaced both axles on mine, because it's just... simple. I only needed one (drivers side) but did them both. Rock auto had a pretty good selection.

I'm surprised you ordered one from Texas. You can find complete rear ends, axles in all in every direction here...within driving distance. They are not hard to come by.

Did you use these search engines, just type in your zip code, -

https://www.hollanderparts.com/used-...5-swirl-spokes or https://www.car-part.com/

BillSF9c

I don't remember your moniker. Jbrew is generally a guy to listen to... and note, I tend to use the English, "under-speak." Hear him.

That said, Doorman or anyone in this economy might change owners or suppliers at any time.

Easy to forget - count your splines!!! You must specify

squishware

This salvage yard claimed to have 5 x 829A axles in stock but after 2 weeks waiting they sent a very rusted 828A which per Ford will not work and is available locally. All of the 829A axles were already pulled at the local and next town over pick and pulls. 829a is 1999 and 2000 only.

BillSF9c

Brew, axles were, ~ $130??? Why did you change both, (where as I changed just seals and bearings?)

Each axle's bearings and seals, $50/side? (I used Napa, and got a very small jobber's discount.)

Why did you bither withe the 2nd axke? Mine was an unscrupulous PO*** selling to an action house, only swapping in a new axle, that lasted 5,000 miles before > 1/16" was eaten away on the driver's side, and the dif oil full of particulate.

BTW, ai ALWAYS add a drain to ANY oil cover just so I can do 90% drains... Or inspect the oil. I'm a tad ****. It gives me peace of mind.

EDIT; There was some slight evidence that my '01 was left in a creek above the axle in the driver's side for a few days, then driven w/o removing ALL water from the axle tube. Passenger side was A-ok, but I still changed the bearings and seals, all the way to a new crush washer. A lil overkill? For so much work to re-do and so lil extra now, yes... But your wallet may be tighter than even mine is.

Jbrew

The axles had 350,000 miles. The OEM axles themselves begin to wear at aprox 225,000 miles. They deteriorate inside the wheel bearings locations..just under them. Mine were both bad, drivers side was ready to snap. It sounded like it had stones for bearings.

The bearings were fine. The axle wore under them and ob-longed or wore unevenly. I caught it before it snapped.

It was just the axles and nothing else. I replaced the wheel bearing as well regardless.

Strange ehh, seems like that would have destroyed the wheel bearing.

EDIT: Almost slipped my mind, the axle did take out the seal on the drivers side, it began to leak and fairly heavy. It was making a mess in the driveway..that forced the fix lol.