Kapis

Well, that didn't work. I have a very faint but evident knock... I flushed the motor and I got no sludge. I'm assuming the engine was pretty much sludge free. I drove it about 10 miles after the flush and as I was coming down my street, noticed a slight but evident knock. No tick, knock. I have not started it since. So the question is, should (or can) I slam bearings in this and make it good again? Or is it fate that I should O/H the engine, or replace it? I have it sitting in the garage ready to go. This guy needs help! (and a beer!) Let me know. Thank you in advance....

Frank_Ford

I suspect that you have a rod bearing that is causing the knock and if that is the case, I would say your engine is a goner. Once it starts knocking it is scaring up the crank bearing surface. Installing a new bearing on this surface will just cause the new bearing to wear and start knocking again. Eventually you will throw the rod and further damage the engine.

My choice in this situation would be to find a known used engine from a salvage yard. Rebuilding an engine today requires a lot of know how and tools and not a job for most mechanics. Of course, this is only my opinion. If you do attempt it you can count on spending a lot of money on parts. For me at least, I wouldn't want to spend that kinda money and face the risk of making a mistake during the rebuild that would trash out the engine.

aznxstazy

Sorry, I don't log on here very much.

But I just saw your post Kapis, and yes flush does NOT work... I said screw it, if the car was like this when I bought it, then the bearing clearances are probably messed up anyway.

So I tried a gallon of straight kerosene into to engine oil. Let it idle for 10 mins drained it out, but didn't see a lot of dirt or clunky pieces. No metal flakes etc.

Filled it back up with some 5w-30 supertech and a ford filter. Let it idle for 10 mins seemed fine. Drove it down the street a few times and it started losing oil pressure again.

I already replaced the LOWER intake manifold gasket. It was completely ripped on both sides. I'm assuming that the pick up tube is clogged like yours Frank_ford. As soon as I get some time after school ends. I'm going to drop the oil pan and see if it is a clogged pickup or not.

If not a clogged pickup, I assume the bearing clearance somewhere in the engine is bad and I'm just going to give up on it, but I don't hear any "knocking" from the engine. Just tapping on the passenger side head from the lifters, but that's suppose to be "normal" when it doesn't get enough oil.

Also I have not installed a "aftermarket" gauge in the truck yet, so I can't tell what PSI I am at. I will do that ASAP. I'll keep everyone posted.

Kapis

Well, it JUST started knocking and it is really faint. I can barely hear it with the windows down. And it was for about 30 seconds. So how long do you think bearings would last in it? If we're talking months or years I'll do it in a second. I would like to get more prepared before dumping an engine in it. If I have to do that I'll probably give it an upgrade (PI, 5.4, something with more *****, etc). I love the truck and really want to keep it...any advise?

Frank_Ford

If it is knocking and is a result of a bad bearing, you do not have much time left. You will most likely throw a rod the next time you drive it. It may be something else although I can't think what is could be besides a piston rod bearing. If you drive it around for a few days and nothing happens, I would get a second opinion by taking it to someone who knows something about Ford engines. Everything in that picture looks really clean and I cannot think that one flush got it this clean.

Just a point of information, in theory, if everything is working properly in your engine, there is never a metal to metal contact in your bearings. They always ride on a thin layer of oil. However, with dirty oil, hard driving, and cold starts, metal to metal contact is made and your bearings wear.

Mark J House

I agree with what your saying, but crank journals don't damage that easy. Most new rod and crank bearings are hard aluminum, or copper coated with Babbitt. If the rod and crank journals lack sufficient oil, the bearing will wear enough to create the soft knock, but the crank is very hard Nodular Iron, hardened and polished. If you pull a main cap (the front one gets the most wear) and you see copper, and the bearing is still in one piece, you can replace them. The bearing is the softest metal so it will take the damage, not the crank or rod journals. Once you get the pan off, replace all the bearings with oversize (if needed) ones. As long as you fix the coolant from mixing with the oil, you can replace the pick- up tube at the same time. This is a quick fix but it is still a difficult job. The rod bolts have to be replaced, as they are the new "Torque-to-fit" type, and require a lot of torque to set them, hard to do working under the truck, but it can be done!
Also when you replace the lower intake gaskets, apply a thin layer of RTV to keep them from leaking again.
Also, this thread pertains to the 4.2V6, not the V8s! I am not sure it is an issue for them.
Good luck!

matts6foot8

Had the same knocking issue with low oil pressure at stop lights. Pulled the motor and oil pan was clean thank god. Found out my rod and main bearings were slightly worn down. No scaring though. So I replaced them all. Takes a lot of time but cheaper than a shop.

aznxstazy

have any pictures of your bearings and crank journals? pics of crank etc?

ibd2328

iTrader: (2)

Id drop the oil pan and check to make sure the pump isnt clogged.

matts6foot8

Unfortunately this was the only one I took of a main bearing. Didn't take any of the crank but is was virtually new looking.