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So I had the famous chain slap and decided to rebuild my 5.4 3v. New plugs, phasers, oil pump timing set and sent the lifters rockets and cams off to be cleaned. I photoed everything before hand and set the timing with cyl 1 at tdc. I installed the cams with no rocket arms so they would move freely. With everything set I put everything together, turned the key and she would not start. Wouldn't make a boom. Torn everything back down and set cyl 1 to tdc. Now both the cam phasers are flipped. I hand turned the engine before hand with the plugs out prior to assembly. Hand turned as in timing set and rockers in. There was no resistance and no stopping. So how likely is it that the valves are bent. Also why did the cams flip?
Pre repair drivers side reference
Tear down to clean
Freshly cleaned
Setting timing
Post timing failed, timing reverse
Wrong plugs, thats #8
Post timing set
Hand turning
Reassenbly
Failed tear down, flipped timing driver side
Last edited by Sean E. Slade; Jun 29, 2018 at 12:53 AM.
You do know that after turning motor that the exact timing
marks are not going to show up for 122 revolutions .
I will send some diagrams but once you leave timing point it takes a lot of revs to ever get the same line up . Remember drivers side is left ,don't use left and right ,use pass -drivers lingo to stop mistakes .
If cams were pulled when you set it up then all valves would have been up ,then reinstalled at set point with rollers in . Then turned crank by hand two full clockwise turns with no valve contact then no bent valves . If crank was at six oclock gear dot then number one was at correct point ,you don't even need to check piston . It is mech locked to crank it must be there at correct point . If your phaser gears are locked at timing point as shown in diagram with tensioners tension on and right side of both chains tight then shes timed correctly . . Your tines on phasers should look like this .
Most people do not realize that the ratio of the crank gear to phasor gear is 2;1. The crank has to turn twice for one rev of the cam . The cams determine which stroke shes in .
So I retimed her and she runs. Like **** might I add. She keeps dying and wont stay on, feels like heavy misfiring. No code will set. I can get her to run smoothly once I rev her up to 2k plus but as soon as I let off she misfires and dies.
EDIT now I have a pending code of P0171, Bank 1 Lean. I can't seem to find anything causing this. She ran fine before....ahhhhh I think I F-ed up
Last edited by Sean E. Slade; Jun 29, 2018 at 11:10 PM.
Yes I saw 6 o'clock on gear dot with chain link on it . But I failed to see Phaser set up with double links . This would tell me if it was timed right .
I used to think in the beginning that dowel rod in number one to set TDC was necessary for my own mind . But as I got finished I know that was just for learning . Drivers side phaser is going to say L with the links straddling it .
I put cams in with old phaser on it and new rollers in place / I then use phaser toothed holding tool to change out phaser I have reference marks on cams behind phaser to make sure shes in the right spot / I set those marks up before I ever removed chains which were all set to timing pointwhich used 6 ockock gear dot / and cam lobes facing set per ford diagram . Those are just guide marks and will be off a little when perfectly timed with new chains .
I am not a fan of the valve tool or popping rollers in one at a time . Your final check is with all rollers in and timed is two clock wise revs of the crank with no piston to valve contact . I don't like the vise grips on cam parts either the toothed
tool is a great tool .
Let us know if you think you went wrong on any part and how you fixed it . Its always good to have two heads on timing at the time and you both agree shes right . Explaining it to someone else makes your understanding jump ten fold . A check list before rolling on your final check is good too. Hope shes alright .