The only way to test a battery is with a load test after a full charge and its a realy bad idea to disconect the batery with the engine running it will cause avoltage spike which very unfreindley to solid state electronics just test you charging voltage with a volt meter cheap one is under $10 if you dont have one

 

Turns out it was a bad alternator. Picked one up from autozone. Will replace it in the morning. Hopefully this is the end of my troubles.

 

Good! However i disagree with disconnecting battery while the vehicle is running. Its the wrong way to test the alternator but hopefully you tested it correctly.

 

nvm....

 

Autozone tested the alternator for me. But my troubles continue... it cranked up all day yesterday but could tell it was kinda slow not like it should be. Went out to my truck today and boom. Nothing. cant get it started just clicks like the battery is dead again. Running lights staying on and wont go off. security light started flashing rapidly. This is starting to **** me off any idea what is causing all this? I guess im gonna have to take her to the stealership tommorrow. Seems like a problem above my head.

 

Si you did replace your alternator? And the lights stay on when you shut the truck off and walk away or do they shut off and then randomly go on by themselves? I'm trying to figure out your situation so I can better help you solve your issue. I still think your battery is bad but if your lights stays on all the time from the moment you shut the truck off then they will kill the battery in a couple of hours. Mine had a bad battery a while back and when I went to start it the starter clicked and the lights stayed on till I jumped started it, afterwards the lights acted normally. I'm pretty sure your battery is dead.... I think ive said that a few times already lol

 

Back to square one. You have a BAD battery Im sure if you charge it fulley and then load test it the battery will fail

 

Unhook the battery and charge it fully with your own charger. Hook it backup and turn on the headlights. Leave them on for 1 1/2 hour. Shut them off. Does truck easily crank up for 2/3 times. If so your battery is perty good. If not you know what is wrong. Now disconnect the enigizer wire at its disconnect on the Alternator with battery disconnected. Test wire for continuity. If it is open you have a blown fusible link wire and Alternator isn't turning on. You may need to test cables several times, when cold, and when hot for a bad connection/Fusible link wire blown. If one of your fusible links are blown the battery will not stay charged and you will have a number of electrical issues. Also corrosion in your fuse box can cause you grief. If you see blue green or rust it is bad. A good high end battery will light up the dome light all night and still start the motor in the morning. A battery with a bad cell/connector will cause you nothing but grief. Todays charging is around 13.7 volts, not as high as in the past. I like to use my DC amp meter. it hooks around a cable and records the amperage flowing thru the cable. A sure way to find a problem. Be it Positive side or negative side. It's the best tool investment. It also doubles as a VOM Multimeter. Home Depot/Sears has them. You won't be sorry. Just make sure it does both AC/DC amps. Not all do both.

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Women might not find ya handsome, but they'll find ya in your F150
Ford Built_Ford Tough

 

Like you guys said. Turned out to be the battery. A bad cell. But they way it was acting made it weird. And not to mention I had it tested by two different people and they both told me the battery was good and that i had a bad alternator... last time I ever use AutoZone or Advance. Stealership got me good but at least my problems are over. Now to see about getting some money out of AutoZone. Thanks for the help fellas.