Weird Issue - Possibly Phasers
Your throttle body motor or mech maybe acting up . I had to replace mine years ago oem ebay around $200. Circuit board on motor has to decode signal from pcm then drive motor -- then tps tells pcm where its at . If its lagging or sticking mechanically it would do this , Mine was intermittent over weeks then bam it would shutdown usually when throttling up .
OK, I was able to get some spare time today and pulled the connectors off the VCT solenoids. I got the engine up to normal operating temperature and went for a drive. I had no issues with throttle nudges like I would before. This includes inching up to stop signs as each car goes through, as well as creeping up the driveway and into the garage.
I also found a youtube video that describes how to replace the solenoids. At the beginning of the video, he talks about the symptoms and it sounds just like my issue. Same youtube channel as the vid above.
I think i'm going to start with the solenoid replacement and see if that takes care of it.
I also found a youtube video that describes how to replace the solenoids. At the beginning of the video, he talks about the symptoms and it sounds just like my issue. Same youtube channel as the vid above.
I think i'm going to start with the solenoid replacement and see if that takes care of it.
I just got the bluetooth OBDII adapter in yesterday so I'm going to install the Torque Pro app and test it on a drive tomorrow. I'm not sure if it can live monitor oil pressure. Is there anything specific I should be looking at with these symptoms?
I found a video that suggests trying BG MOA before replacing the VCT solenoids to see if that fixes any sticking issues. I'm going to give that a shot and see if it help. However, if I need to replace the solenoids, should I go ahead and do the phasers anyway while I have the heads off? and if I'm doing the phasers, should I go ahead and to the high volume oil pump, chains, and chain guides? The cost difference between doing the other stuff now or later is only time and valve cover gaskets.
I'd much rather spend the money on a re-gear to run 35" tires properly though.
I found a video that suggests trying BG MOA before replacing the VCT solenoids to see if that fixes any sticking issues. I'm going to give that a shot and see if it help. However, if I need to replace the solenoids, should I go ahead and do the phasers anyway while I have the heads off? and if I'm doing the phasers, should I go ahead and to the high volume oil pump, chains, and chain guides? The cost difference between doing the other stuff now or later is only time and valve cover gaskets.
I'd much rather spend the money on a re-gear to run 35" tires properly though.
I just got the bluetooth OBDII adapter in yesterday so I'm going to install the Torque Pro app and test it on a drive tomorrow. I'm not sure if it can live monitor oil pressure. Is there anything specific I should be looking at with these symptoms?
I found a video that suggests trying BG MOA before replacing the VCT solenoids to see if that fixes any sticking issues. I'm going to give that a shot and see if it help. However, if I need to replace the solenoids, should I go ahead and do the phasers anyway while I have the heads off? and if I'm doing the phasers, should I go ahead and to the high volume oil pump, chains, and chain guides? The cost difference between doing the other stuff now or later is only time and valve cover gaskets.
I'd much rather spend the money on a re-gear to run 35" tires properly though.
I found a video that suggests trying BG MOA before replacing the VCT solenoids to see if that fixes any sticking issues. I'm going to give that a shot and see if it help. However, if I need to replace the solenoids, should I go ahead and do the phasers anyway while I have the heads off? and if I'm doing the phasers, should I go ahead and to the high volume oil pump, chains, and chain guides? The cost difference between doing the other stuff now or later is only time and valve cover gaskets.
I'd much rather spend the money on a re-gear to run 35" tires properly though.
I bet he meant valve covers not heads . Replacing VCTS always a good thing after so many miles plus new ones redesigned . If you go into timing cover think about using the old style metal ratcheting tensioners with no gasket to blow out . Looking in oil pan for plastic guide pieces and cleaning oil pickup always good place to start ,gasket is reusable . . Also a flush helps but only if you are going in to do timing job .
Hey guys, Its been a while but I finally had some time today to pull the valve covers (I didn't mean heads earlier...) and change the solenoids. Holy crap, it looks like the previous owner never changed the oil! Lots of varnish in there. I'm going to have to pull the oil pan and see if there's an inch of crap down there. The job took me about 5 hours altogether. The driver's side was tough with the AC lines and the heater hose in the way. The passenger side would have been much easier if I realized sooner that the power steering reservoir bracket was slotted so I didn't have to take the bolt all the way out. >
If I had to do it again, I could do it much faster. (It would also help if the truck wasn't lifted 6" too.)
Anyway, After changing out the solenoids, the truck no longer has an issue at low idle with a slight throttle nudge. I'm glad it was not phasers or anything else. Thank you both for your quick input steering me in the right direction.
Now I need to find the best way to clean up the inside of that engine. If the valve covers were badly coated, I can't imagine how bad it is everywhere else. But that's a problem for another day.
If I had to do it again, I could do it much faster. (It would also help if the truck wasn't lifted 6" too.)Anyway, After changing out the solenoids, the truck no longer has an issue at low idle with a slight throttle nudge. I'm glad it was not phasers or anything else. Thank you both for your quick input steering me in the right direction.
Now I need to find the best way to clean up the inside of that engine. If the valve covers were badly coated, I can't imagine how bad it is everywhere else. But that's a problem for another day.
Hey guys, Its been a while but I finally had some time today to pull the valve covers (I didn't mean heads earlier...) and change the solenoids. Holy crap, it looks like the previous owner never changed the oil! Lots of varnish in there. I'm going to have to pull the oil pan and see if there's an inch of crap down there. The job took me about 5 hours altogether. The driver's side was tough with the AC lines and the heater hose in the way. The passenger side would have been much easier if I realized sooner that the power steering reservoir bracket was slotted so I didn't have to take the bolt all the way out. >
If I had to do it again, I could do it much faster. (It would also help if the truck wasn't lifted 6" too.)
Anyway, After changing out the solenoids, the truck no longer has an issue at low idle with a slight throttle nudge. I'm glad it was not phasers or anything else. Thank you both for your quick input steering me in the right direction.
Now I need to find the best way to clean up the inside of that engine. If the valve covers were badly coated, I can't imagine how bad it is everywhere else. But that's a problem for another day.
If I had to do it again, I could do it much faster. (It would also help if the truck wasn't lifted 6" too.)Anyway, After changing out the solenoids, the truck no longer has an issue at low idle with a slight throttle nudge. I'm glad it was not phasers or anything else. Thank you both for your quick input steering me in the right direction.
Now I need to find the best way to clean up the inside of that engine. If the valve covers were badly coated, I can't imagine how bad it is everywhere else. But that's a problem for another day.
Id do some sea foam, but I wouldn’t drive on the stuff. I’d put it in with cheap oil, heat cycle the engine, and drain it off, and fill again with a new filter both times.







