Injectors can wreck your engine . If leaking it can hydro lock and bend valves and rods . Testing injectors should be done with spray testing and cleaning , New injectors can be found on amazon , they work very hard so a lot of guys replace after 100k .ford had bad injector problems around 05. One test is to lay them out on dry newspaper key on none should leak .

 

He got new injectors already.

Who'd you buy them from? You only gave the link to your old ones. They're probably fine, there aren't that many variations. The ends with the o-rings, the rate, and the electrical connection are about it. One model of injector will cover many engines.

 

"I ordered a new set of injectors....OEM rebuilt"
My take is remans are not reliable and a big risk--- just my opinion . Testing coils on injectors does not test spray pattern and leaking issues . Just so he knows it can seriously damage engine then its his choice to make . Those have been thru 100's of thousands cycles .Remans are not cheap and new ones are on amazon . His wallet not mine .

 

Can you guys lend me a hand with the fuses? I'm trying to compare what I have above with the diagram I found. 2004 F150 stx 4.6l 4x4 ext cab
My questions are in regards to:
#34 15a PCM Power
#12 5a PCM Relay
#9 20a Injectors
#5 7.5a PCM

#34 currently has a 20a instead of 15a
#12 currently has no fuse in it
#9 currently has no fuse in it
#5 has an unblown correct 7.5a

 

#1 10a missing also (run accessory/ wipers instrument/ audio) (all function)
#3 7.5a missing also (power seats/mirrors) ( I have neither)
#12 5a missing also (PCM relay)
#22 10a missing also (power door locks and moonroof) (I have neither)
#30 15a missing also (PCM 4x4) (same description as #29 which has a 15a)
#110 20a cartridge fuse (cigar lighter/diagnostic connector power) (scan tool obdII port work???)(not sure on this one)

I'm still trying to familiarize myself with the truck...I also pulled all the CB radio and plow wiring from the truck today as well as the front mounting brackets. I kid you not there was probably 100 feet of wire running throughout the truck.(although it looks like they did a professional job on it) I pulled off the battery cables as well and cleaned up the posts and terminals. I also cleaned up the ground points since some of the plow/cb wires were mounted on them. I don't have any mini fuses so I'm gonna reset the ecu by leaving the battery cables unplugged tonight since it's getting dark and pick up some fuses tonight.

The diagram above is from https://www.ford-trucks.com/how-tos/...diagram-360038
I found a slightly different one at https://www.startmycar.com/ford/f-150/info/fusebox/2004

 

So after resetting the ecu, cleaning battery terminals, new plugs, coils, injectors. I'm still getting P0301 P0316 and P0356
I think I have the correct fitting for my compression tester so I'll try that this afternoon...if compression checks out I think the PCM will be next (does Ford or repair shops have the ability to check them?)
All the gauges read normal...I don't see any signs of blowby coming out of the crankcase or symptoms of coolant coming out the exhaust or contamination in the coolant.

Other than compression check and PCM do you guys have any thoughts on what else to check.
I have a noid light coming to double check injector pulse
Thanks

 

I would also check for leaking intake gasket right near cylinder one on the first start of the day after sitting overnight just because you have the p0316 too. Assuming you have a 2V engine, looks like you do in the pics. Get a water bottle and poke a hole in the cap then when you first start it in the morning spray the intake manifold gasket area right near cylinder 1 and see if it starts running real rough. Compression test is a must too though.

 

UPDATE:
It's what I hoped it wasn't. It has good compression for 7 of 8 cylinders (2-8)
DRY WET DRY WET
4 127 150 8 125 145
3 125 148 7 128 150
2 125 145 6 125 150
1 0 0 5 125 145

So it looks like I'm replacing a head. It also did have what looks like a small amount of coolant/condensation in the #1 hole
Will you help me start making a list of what I'll need? I just swapped a 5.0 into my mustang so I think tackling a head should be OK.
Just off the top of my head I'm thinking:
Rebuilt head with cam (just in case it flattened a lobe)
Head gasket
Head bolt set
Intake gasket set

Is it a W code head for my motor? Or 1L2E casting (left/driver side)? DB03 (right/passenger side?) And is it PI ports (and can someone explain what those are?)(are there other port types?)
From my brief research it looks like the exhaust manifold bolts could be the biggest headache in the whole process.
Also is there a left and right specific head or either or?

 

Head bolts shouldn't be an issue if you are replacing the head. Biggest issue is drilling if one breaks when you don't plan to pull the head. You might not think so but loosening the motor mount and jacking up the engine gives you a ton more room. I did leave the nut on the bolt because I've heard it can sometimes be rough getting the mount to sit back in if it comes completely out. And yes the head is right/left for sure.