I have a 07 with a sunroof. Recently something is haywire with the switch or motor. Opening or closing it only goes in short bursts for about 3" at a time rather than continuous. So I have to keep actuating it until either complete position. My drains were blocked(fixed now) but there was a period of water ingress. I don't know for sure if that is necessarily related. Mechanical stuff I'm OK. Diagnosing elechicken stuff, not so much. Point me in the right direction? TIA.

 

Have you tried to re "initialize" the window?

 

don't just try to initialize it, just do it.

Have you greased the seals and mating surface?

Without knowing history:
Clean and lubricate the sealing surfaces
Initialize

If what you are describing is new, I'd stop using it before you do the clean/grease then initialize. Too many broken arms due to dry tracks and stuck seals. Where are you going to find a place to fix it when the world is half shut down?

I've just done the process to mine last week and I do not plan to risk it while it may be difficult to source a part or find a repair facility.

Clean and lube:

Initialize:


TSB for cleaning/maintenance
https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/20...60817-0001.pdf

 

Thanks for the pointers and links. I will check them out for sure. I don't feel it is a track lube issue. It's electrical but I will absolutely check and make certain it's not that. Reinitializing sounds more like the correct direction. And I do my own work. I very rarely take it to someone else to fix. I'm in the research phase.

 

Rumor has it that the initialization process will reset the amount of torque required by the motor.
I have no proof of that, that only time I've heard it is from the 2nd video I posted.
So if your track system is dry, perhaps your motor is shutting off due to too much force required.

You may very well be correct in that it is electrical. That's more difficult to pinpoint that it is to clean and grease the sealing/sliding surface.
My only hesitation is because I've read the forums since November with failure after failure of broken track arms. That's why I say lube first, then initialize.
My thinking theory is that you run the initialization process only to find it snaps an arm because it's dry. If this were difficult I would be less likely to recommend it as a first check.
Unfortunately it likes silicone or teflon grease so if you don't have any, who knows what is the next best solution. Teflon/silicon spray lube is used by some.

Let us know if either of these maintenance options help out.
If it's electrical, I wouldn't know where to start.

 

I have access to silicon lube so no problem. Wouldn't hurt regardless. My truck is an 07 and different than the video so I'll have to see for my application.

 

Good luck.

My bad -not understanding there were differences from 07 till now. Should have realized it as the pano room is newer.
Sorry if my posts were too far away from any resolutions.

Does you switch allow you to hold it continually to move it? A switch is a switch, open or closed circuit. Unless something internal to the switch is 'opening' breaking current to power the motor, a switch itself shouldn't stop the moving every couple seconds. Think of it like your house, if you turn on the light with a switch, the bulb doesn't turn on/off. So in your case, something (I don't know what) would be opening the circuit, breaking power to the motor.
If you can hold continually, will it continue to move the glass panel or does it also quit?

 

That's what has me confused. Holding the switch should continuously open or close until fully open or fully closed. It doesn't. Something is breaking the circuit. Thinking about it more, maybe it is indeed a restriction of travel in the track and the resistance trips a safety stop. Something like an elevator door if it is obstructed. I'm going to physically look today.

 

Ahh, okay. Does your model also have a one-touch operation? I was considering only a one-touch operation in that you press button, it moves a couple inches and quits. You tap button again, and so on and so on.

If you are pressing the switch to open/close, I could understand a cracked/damaged/broken switch internally.

The only way I could think to test that is to access the wiring at the switch and jump the wires to provide continuous power. If it works well doing that, the switch is bad. The switch could in fact be bad internally, I would think that over years of touching it for use that it has been touched one time too many.
Or the contacts are weak/corroded and and making poor contact.

 

Yes the switch is one touch. So to open it you don't have to push and hold. Same as a power window switch. You can also hold it to one to the desired spot. Closing is continuous hold. That is normal operation. Now no matter how it is actuated it only goes a bit and stops. To go more, you have to repeatedly push it.