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First off, I found this picture tucked up into the steering column and I figured I would share it. Other than that I have been trying to follow the wires with little progress. I know there is a break in the wire from the ignition switch to that lower left connector. I haven't been able to make a good contact with the top left connector yet. I'm kind of a perfectionist so I really want to locate the source of the problem. Is it worth the headache for me to try and locate the source of the problem or should I just locate the shortest distance possible from the ignition switch that has continuity to the NSS and cut the wire there and rewire a new on up to the ignition switch? It's difficult working around the parts where the wire disappears into the abyss because I don't want to mess with those big black tubes.
Alright I need some help. I finally got a good point of contact for the top and bottom parts of the connector. The blue/orange wire has continuity through the connector. When I attached a lead to the top connector and the ignition wire I don't get anything. When I attached a lead to the bottom connector and the ignition wire I got a high number like 1300. I'm not sure what to make of this.
okay a piece of wire or a connector should be zero ohms on the times one scale . 10 on a times 1 scale is 10 ohms , 10 on a times 100 scale is 1000 ohms . You want a real low reading same as your test leads shorted together . Use the x1 scale.
1300 is high for a connector or wire-- basically a no go.
are you saying blu/org connector okay on cjb . but red /blu connector not okay at 1300.
using your test light do you get light during start at pin 11 270h(red/blu) but not at pin 1 270 d( blu/org). If so I would jump the two wires here for test and plan on permanent jump point .
The jumper on circuit board has failed or connector bad . make sure connectors are all the way in .
I finally finished!!! I was able to trace the blue/orange wire from the NSS all the way back to that connector like I said earlier. Looking at it I believed the top part went to the NSS and the bottom part went to the ignition switch. I think the bottom connector routes those wires under the parking brake and then back up the other side but I didn't want to deal with that. I was able to break open a section of the black tubing under the dash. In here I found the ignition wire and tested it for continuity. It had continuity from the ignition switch to this point, which shortened the area I need to replace. If the wires route down under the parking brake like I believe then somewhere under there the two wires probably meet and is the source of my problem. Instead of going through the trouble of dealing with this, I decided to cut the red/blue ignition wire under the dash where I had continuity and run the wire probably 2 feet and connect it to the blue/orange wire on the lower connector. I split each wire in half and wound the strands so that it was basically two wires. I then pushed the wires together and wound each side with the other one and then I wound them together. It's not the best job but it worked! It was a difficult area to work in but I'm satisfied with the results.
You are actually on the diode test scale . Most old meters go x1,x10,x100 etc . 200 scale should mean it will read up to 200 ohms any higher and it will display open. We are looking for close to zero reading . meaning no resistance --good path .
Well my problem is NOT fixed! I knew that wiring job wasn't that great but I needed to head home and figured I could deal with it later. I was able to get the truck started and made it home. When I went out the next morning the truck wouldn't start. I applied voltage to the starter in order to get around. Today I was checking the problem and I noticed when the ignition wire goes down the dash it reaches a T and then heads left. I was losing continuity somewhere in there so I decided to just go a little higher towards the ignition switch and cut the wire there. I learned a better technique for connecting the wires but the top ones are so high up in there I don't trust myself to solder them. I could probably solder the bottom ones but from what I've read, if done properly the wires should hold tight enough without solder. They don't have any weight on them and are inside the cab. Plus the electrical tape helps hold them together.
Anyway, I rewired a new piece from higher up towards the ignition switch and into that bottom left wire. I checked for continuity through the connector and it's still there. I'm thinking it has something to do with the NSS. I'm going to try and look into it more tomorrow but I have to help my sister out with her truck. Is there a reason I need to go through the NSS and starter relay? What if I wire a button between the ignition post on starter and positive battery terminal, or better yet a constant hot wire? I understand the safety issues of bypassing the NSS but I'm not going to start my truck in neutral and definitely not reverse or drive. Thoughts?
Sooner or later someone will get into trouble .
A good test is to string a wire to inside of cab where you think you may be losing volts in start . Put the volt meter on it until you find your true failure point .
This would also let you supply start signal from cig lighter point with out going under truck .
Some of us know that it is possible to have more than one failure point in a circuit at a time You may be fighting 2 points of failure. You may have a second problem like an intermittent start relay .
Twisted wires in vehicle will corrode and/or mech open up . Soldering with a pen type will get into most areas . Once the wires get corroded soldering gets tough to do .
02-04-2017, 01:02 PM
Slow Progress
