2007 F-150 5.4 3 valve XLT 4X4

I may be dealing with a few different problems here but maybe they are all related. The background is that I recently did a full timing job and also replaced the cams, lifters, rockers, and VCT solenoids. The engine will run great and I am getting no codes so I’m very confident that the maintenance was done correctly.



My first issue is that the truck will fire up just fine when it’s cold and the engine runs great…. After driving around for a while and getting warmed up it will eventually stall out when I come to a stop. When I try to restart it the starter can’t crank the engine as if the battery were dead. If I let the truck sit and cool off for quite a while then it will go back to firing right back up. I bought a brand new battery and have tested the alternator by removing the battery cables while running and also checked the amps with a multi-meter and it was well above 14 Volts. I’m confident that the battery and alternator are both serviceable. Could this be starter heat soak?? I also have other issues.



The second issue is that when driving the truck it doesn’t have near the power that it should! The motor revs and RPM’s climb but the truck is not powerful and shifts hard during acceleration after the engine reaches around 3500 RPM’s. If I let off the gas it will shift a little sooner but still doesn’t have power and takes forever to pickup speed. The truck is very sluggish and not responsive.



The third issue…. Which I would assume is most likely related to the second one is that there is a very noticeable ticking/knocking sound coming from the truck when it’s running. It will speed up and get louder when I rev the motor up in park or when I’m driving and try to accelerate. I used my stethoscope and pin pointed where the sound is coming from and it is definitely where the transmission mates to the engine. I pulled the round plastic plug and could see the flywheel and everything appeared to be ok. I took a video with my phone from the drivers side wheel well while revving the motor in park that I will attempt to attach. I did a parasitic battery drain test and found that fuses 21 and 24 each had a constant draw of .4 amps each with the truck off. I am getting the following DTC’s that didn’t seem to point towards anything in my opinion..



P1000

B1676-20

B1352-60

C1222



I also have Forscan but I am a beginner with it so if anybody has recommendations on live tests to run please let me know. I tried to be as detailed as possible but if there are any other questions please let me know and I will elaborate. Thanks in advance!!

 

Noise from where the tranny mates to the engine

 

IMO this is too many threads for same truck/batch of issues (especially in such a short time).

It’s helpful to know what symptoms have come up, what’s already been done or tried, etc. too much to try to dig back through (all these threads) or ask same/similar questions for background and context.

Not saying it’s not your option/choice to keep creating threads, just sharing an opinion that I think it is somewhat counterproductive.

Having said all that, hope you get it figured out.

 

Those other threads were different issues most of which have been fixed. Clearly I’ve been doing a lot of work to my truck recently. If I would have posted new issues in a thread I made about something else then someone would surely complain about that. I thought this post was pretty detailed and explained my situation well.

 

i may have worded my post poorly. Wasn’t trying be rude. And you certainly can create new threads. Just sharing an opinion that it sometimes becomes hard to follow when so many threads get going (and maybe some people will drop off in the process). Sorry if it came off as offensive, Hopefully not though.

You’re right though, you can’t please all, and I’m sure some/plenty will disagree with my take.

Regardless though, I do hope you get it all sorted.

 

So what came of the parasitic battery drain was that resolved? Those fuses you mention are for the instrument cluster and interior lights so they do stay on for a while after the truck is turned off especially if the door is open. To check for drain the doors need to be shut for at least 30 seconds minimum. It seems to make the lights turn off faster if the doors if the truck is locked with the fob after at least on my truck.


Now.. as to the engine troubles. Do you have any trouble codes?
Get out forscan and try using it. I'd look at what values you are reading from the mass air sensor pid for example.

 

Post the video to YouTube and then share the link here, so we can see and hear the noise. Is it ever present, or under what conditions?

 

B1676-20 The B1676 code is set when the Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) module detects system voltage is less than 9 volts or grater than 19 volts
B1352-60 ignition key wiring or switch fault

C1222FORD code possible causes · Wheels or tires mismatch · Faulty Wheel Speed Sensor · Wheel Speed Sensor harness is open or shorted · Wheel Speed Sensor circuit ...

Make sure all your grounds are clean .
Its hard to find a good place to start ,it almost seems like it was a flood vehicle .
Failure to start for awhile is the big one plus you have flex wheel noise that involves starter . So when it doesn't start is the 12vdc signal getting to solenoid on starter , can you carefully jump the two heavy terminals to crank starter- be careful when you are under it chock it -brakes on . Since you have codes for key switch wiring fault I doubt it is getting to solenoid trigger terminal . You can run a wire to that point inside of cab with a twelve volt light connected to ground to see if it is getting there during failure time. That way you don't have to keep crawling under it. Do you have a real good battery tested? Is your terminals and heavy lead to starter not corroded inside. You can learn to do a voltage drop test if you think big cables are failing . A test light that you can make by soldering right to a bulb works good and is a lot more visual than a meter from a distance .
You have some indications of 12vdc failure.

 

Thanks for the heads up on using YouTube for the video. Here is the link. Unfortunately I am working all weekend and won’t be able to mess with the truck again until Monday. Any ideas on the sound? Thanks!

 

What all did you do during your timing job and what brand of parts did you use?
the noise I hear at the beginning and end sounds to me like the infamous phaser knock.. the noise in the middle when revved up it's hard to say. I would have guessed a rocker arm spit out or something, but you say you replaced all those?

A vct solenoid that's acting up?
Any idea how your oil pressure is?


Was the noise there before you did the timing job?

In general I may have already said this but for the low power with no codes maybe clean the maf sensor.