NChoy

Held my breath the whole time thinking something was going to break off! Lucky for me the PO didn't tighten the plugs to spec, and they all came out without any issues. The two back plugs were hand tightened it seemed... no wonder this truck had a raw fuel smell at idle!

Local auto parts store sold me a set of SP-546 at $90 for all 8. Not too shabby. They told me they didn't even have SP-515.

Used the proper 9/16" CTA Tools 2385 plug socket with the swivel connection, and even bought a Lisle 56600 removal tool "just in case" something bad happened. Put a light coat of the Motorcraft XL-2 High-Temp Nickel anti-seize on each plug (threads and electrode extension). Also installed a new set of MSD 55138 Street Fire Coils, and used dielectric grease on all connections between the coil-harness and coil-plug. Two of the OE coils were toast, and one of the old plugs had a broken electrode. All new plugs torqued to 25 ft-lbs using my digital torque wrench.

Truck fired right up on the first crank and runs like a top.

Squidbait

I know this is an old thread, but still so much talk about loosening up the plugs so you can remove them without breaking. Sad story, with a little more than 100k on my 5.4l my engine is broken. Story for another time. Looking at reman engines and got into a conversation with one of the head mechanics about the stupid plugs. He told me they have started using 50/50 ATF and acetone. It is about 6 times better at penitrating than PB buster. Put about an inch in the plug hole, let sit for about 5 hours or overnight and the plugs come right out.
PENETRATING OIL - AVERAGE LOAD

None - 516 pounds
WD-40 - 238 pounds
PB B’laster - 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench - 127 pounds
Kano Kroil - 106 pounds
ATF / Acetone Mix - 53 pounds


Maybe you guys already know this but thought I would share.

F150Torqued

Here is a pretty good rundown on the "difference" (which appears to be minimal at most). Have heard the "One Piece" story about this plug also - but based on the overall design, I'm not sure I see much of a way to manufacturer them as ONE PIECE of metal. The SP546 does NOT have the visible weld around the barrel, but the cathode 'strap' is spot welded on both sides. I saw a member post somewhere about the 'strap' falling off and gone on plug removal!!!1

https://www.f150online.com/forums/20...546-plugs.html

MotoMike

That's very interesting. I used Seafoam Deep Creep during my plug change process(ordeal!) and didn't break any.

ShirBlackspots

I didn't put anything down the spark plug well before removing them. I just ran a bottle of seafoam in the tank before doing them, and did the spark plug removal while the engine was warm. Didn't break a single one.

Here's the difference between 2006 (Nov 2005) plugs (PZT-1F - that makes for 5 releases @Haemon ) and the new SP546 plugs:


All 8 plugs (that clean one is just because I took some sandpaper to it). The two on the right were removed a year later (because I was hesitant to remove the computer to get to them)

dukedkt442

I can vouch that combo is a fantastic penetrant. I've restored a tractor each of the last 3 winters prior to this past one, and got turned on to making my own from the guys on the tractor forum. Definitely works on rust-seized fasteners that haven't seen cover in decades of weathering.

PerryB

Just imagine if Ford could actually produce a spark plug without a failure point engineered into the design....

dukedkt442

Just imagine if Ford did what every other manufacturer has done since the teens, and produce an engine that didn’t have spark plug issues. I mean, plugs are pretty basic on the engine design pyramid. Some don’t want to keep them in, some don’t want to give them up! Unreal.

PerryB

And the 5.4 can't seem to make up it's mind.

Jason Pittman

When you all are saying you torqued the plugs, what tool did you use? I have an inch lb wrench, do I need a foot lb wrench? I've heard some say just a simple beam style works.