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Old 07-02-2018, 12:55 AM
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Lightbulb Shimming

I have an 06' F-150 with over 163000. Just recently, it starts to shimmy when trying to accelerate gradually with the A/C on. It doesn't occur as often when the A/C is not on. Any thoughts or suggestions?
Old 07-02-2018, 06:01 AM
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What motor ? Last tune-up ?
Old 07-05-2018, 01:35 AM
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Last tune up-last year. Motor-8cyl. 5.4 L V8
Old 07-08-2018, 01:39 AM
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Without many details on this - it sounds like a potential power issue. AC uses extra power load when activated. Your truck could already be running lean on power (alternator/battery).

Does this happen only while driving or if you’re in park/neutral can you replicate? If you can replicate- get a multimeter and have your wife/gf on the wheel while you check voltage readings when the ac cycles at the alternator and battery.
Old 07-08-2018, 05:53 AM
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Default Sounds like it could be typical misfire under load

Does it do it going up a hill without ac . Cel will not show up until it reaches threshold setting which is quite high . Not a good idea to push it to set cel as its hard on cats . You can see misfires on mode 6 or on torque pro with android phone /blue tooth reader under test results you get raw data by cylinder . Torque pro $5 ,blue tooth reader $20 amazon and an old android not even activated or laptop .
Replace all boots ,clean all cop terminals ,use very small amt of dielectric grease on boots . Sp 515 plugs prone to failure use sp546 . Clean carbon out of tip area of plug in cyl with carb cleaner . Torque all plugs 25 to 28 foot pounds .
You may need to change out injectors for new not remans . Check all connectors for lock on ,fix broken ones .
Old 07-09-2018, 12:01 AM
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No, originally it would do it when running the air, but now it happens when accelerating, even without the air on.
Old 07-09-2018, 12:04 AM
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Yeah, it does it while accelerating either up hill or on the street. Do you think a complete tune up would help?
Old 07-09-2018, 12:10 PM
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Default Yes a tune up is called for

These engines are very fussy about plugs . They must be done correctly as they sit 5 inches down in the head . The low voltage that is used to trigger cops and injectors is subject to corrosion . latest plugs are sp546 , factory cops rarely go bad they just get corroded connections . When using dielectric grease use it sparingly it is an insulator keep it off metal parts mostly . Boots on plugs go bad with heat and oil ,no mater how pretty they are change them . They hold back 30,000 volts from jumping to heads . If it still misses get torque pro and find cyl that is acting up . I have 192k and 7 of orig cops are still good . Probably should not have changed the one I thought was bad . Boots should be changed every plug change at 60k mi .
You can't trouble shoot this engine until ignition circuit is perfect it causes too many symptoms. Start there . Blow out all dirt first and keep everything clean . If these are orig plugs have lisle extraction tool first . Fix all connectors that don't lock on . Aluminum heads require care installing plugs by fingers. Clean threads and plug tip area out with carb cleaner to dissolve built up carbon , use rubber socket and great care installing plugs .
These years have bad injector series in them it is prudent to change them all with new after 125kmi . Leaking injectors can kill your motor. Good ones are not cheap .. I believe amazon has some that are not too expensive .
I wouldn't fool with remans .



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