Shaking when braking and driving
Thread Starter
4B Ranch Growing Trophies
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: Republic of Texas
Shaking when braking and driving
Hey guys,
I have been on here a while but never posted. It has been very helpful in many things from reading these post. But here is my question.
I have a 05 supercab 4x4. I have ranch hand grille guard and ranch hand replacement bumper with a uws toolbox. I believe as i put more on, my steering wheel would shake more and more. then i finally got rid of teh factory tires and put 285 bfg mud terrains witha autospring 2' leveling kit. but everything is the same, when i am about 45 to 70, the steering wheel shakes, but when braking at 50mph, its even worse. i have everything rotated, balanced, and aligned twice but its still there. balanced and rotated actually i have done numerous times. is there any little secret that yall could tell me about to help me out.
also, during the braking the bed seems to bounce around at teh back corners, like the videos of the toyotas and fords, but not as bad. i can see it when im driving through my rearview mirror though.
I have been on here a while but never posted. It has been very helpful in many things from reading these post. But here is my question.
I have a 05 supercab 4x4. I have ranch hand grille guard and ranch hand replacement bumper with a uws toolbox. I believe as i put more on, my steering wheel would shake more and more. then i finally got rid of teh factory tires and put 285 bfg mud terrains witha autospring 2' leveling kit. but everything is the same, when i am about 45 to 70, the steering wheel shakes, but when braking at 50mph, its even worse. i have everything rotated, balanced, and aligned twice but its still there. balanced and rotated actually i have done numerous times. is there any little secret that yall could tell me about to help me out.
also, during the braking the bed seems to bounce around at teh back corners, like the videos of the toyotas and fords, but not as bad. i can see it when im driving through my rearview mirror though.
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 6
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Since it gets worse when you brake, my first course of action would be to have the rotors turned. If they are too warped, you can jst throw a new set on there. As long as you are at it, replace the pads as well. That way you can just worry about the brake job later instead of sooner.
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 3,805
Likes: 480
From: Cape Girardeau MO
One of the causes of warped rotors is the use of an air wrench to tighten lug nuts. Used to not be a big issue, but now that vehicle weight reductions include lighter brake components, the problem seems to be growing on trucks.
Unequal torque will wreak havoc on the discs, especially on small cars with pie plates for rotors.
I'll use an air wrench to loosen lug nuts, and to spin them back down snug - but always use a torque wrench for the final tightening.
Unequal torque will wreak havoc on the discs, especially on small cars with pie plates for rotors.
I'll use an air wrench to loosen lug nuts, and to spin them back down snug - but always use a torque wrench for the final tightening.
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Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 215
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From: Springville, Iowa
I was looking on ebay, and they have pads and slotted rotors for all 4 corners at about $300-350. I need brakes also. Oreilys will turn the rotors for $6 each. Make sure that when you get brake pads that you buy ones that have the lifetime warranty. You will never have to buy another set again.
Thread Starter
4B Ranch Growing Trophies
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: Republic of Texas
Still happening..
sorry guys its took me so long to reply. had a week of exams and projects, and trying to get ready for hunting season. I was driving back to school yesterday adn around 60mph it didnt shake. But for some reason, when i slow down from 50 to 40, the bed shakes and steering wheel keeps shaking. i only have 32700 miles on it, should my rotors and everything be going out that fast.
Also, im going to go to the dealership and try to replace as much as i can before its up. Any ideas, because they have never found anything either except to get my tires balanced. Also, any parts that yall have wear out right after the warranty? im going to try to get a new console, new steering wheel, new antenna.. and so on.
One more thing, is anybody runnin 285 bfg mud terrains, and how much psi are you running? my mechanic said to run about 35 to 38 because thats what my truck was rated, but bfg sidewall says up to 65psi.Im thinking 45psi is about right?
Also, im going to go to the dealership and try to replace as much as i can before its up. Any ideas, because they have never found anything either except to get my tires balanced. Also, any parts that yall have wear out right after the warranty? im going to try to get a new console, new steering wheel, new antenna.. and so on.
One more thing, is anybody runnin 285 bfg mud terrains, and how much psi are you running? my mechanic said to run about 35 to 38 because thats what my truck was rated, but bfg sidewall says up to 65psi.Im thinking 45psi is about right?
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
From: Mobile, Alabama
I has same problem. Put on new rotors, pads and new tires as the old ones had wore out from driving under these conditions. Was a temp fix. Turns out it came back and now am fixing to do a tie-rod job on it.