My 2004 Lariat Screw driver rear window will not operate unless the front driver's door is shut. Is this something I just noticed after all these years or did something break? This applies to both the master control on the driver's door and the controller on the rear driver door.

If the driver's door is shut then the rear driver door window operates as it should. All other windows operate regardless of the status of the driver's door, I think.

 

You probably have a wire that's broken in the door jamb, when the door is a closed it works, but open it stretched out and opens the circuit

 

I pulled the wiring in the door jam and couldn't see any chaffed or broken wire. Dern it.

 

Sometimes the copper wire inside breaks before the plastic sheath does. I would try opening the door and then pushing the window button while wiggling the wires and see if it comes alive while you do this...

 

I tried the wiggling trick but still come up empty but did something. Now the window won't roll down.

So, I've been looking at diagrams but admittedly, I'm not too good at reading them. Can I get help with what color wiring relates to the left rear window? Is it YE-LB, GY-OG and YE-LG? What do those abbreviation colors translate to?


SCREW Window power diagram

 

Looks correct.
I would assume:
Yellow w light blue stripe
Grey w orange stripe
Yellow w light green stripe.
There should be a key in the front of the diagram book with the color decoder.

 

I've went through all the wiring and it all looks good, even totally pulling back the boot in the door. Then, I took out the driver's side window master switch and noticed where I had written notes sometime in the past about the plugs. I have no memory of changing that switch but I must have done it in the past with a Dorman unit. It SUCKS getting old.

Then, I cleaned it up a little and made my issue intermittent but working. At this point, I'm pretty sure it's the main switch. I've got an OEM switch on order. I'll post back after install.

Window master control

 

I wouldn't install the replacement switch until pinpointing it as the problem. That way I could return it if it's not the problem.

The first thing I'd test is the driver's rear window motor. There are two wires to it. I'd disconnect them, then connect a wire from battery positive to either motor terminal, and connect another wire between the other motor terminal and ground. The motor should go up or down. If it doesn't, I'd switch the wires and try again. If the motor doesn't operate I'd replace it.

If you do this and the motor operates, let us know. There are other tests that can pinpoint the problem.

 

My parts cannon of replacing the switch seems to have fixed the problem, it think. Seems to work everytime I tested it in the last few days.

 

Interesting. That must mean that the power to the rear window switch comes from the driver's master switch. I assumed it was powered separately.

Anyway, glad to hear you got it fixed, and thanks for sharing.