I had to replace the passenger side phaser and camshaft as the pin had sheared off and the hole was bad. Bought new camshaft and phaser. I checked clearances with plastigauge and all looked good. I marked the chain and was able to get the new phaser lined up correctly with original timing marks. All that was left to do was place the roller follower back in. I was able to get most of them in fine but I needed to rotate the engine to get 4-5 back in. I couldn’t seem to get to the crankshaft bolt to rotate so I rotated the fan nut. Problem is as I watched the phaser turn the camshaft didn’t turn at the same rate as the phaser. I was able to get the lobes moved so I could put the last roller followers in but I have this bad feeling that maybe the pin sheared on the phaser even though it was torque to spec and the additional 90. Just looking for any insight before I go any further.

 

Well, about the only thing to do now is pull it back apart and verify the condition of the pin
A wacky packy is your friend for the initial tightening of the cam bolt (you can torque it later)

 

Sounds like you used the wedge method to replace phasor . Since you had to replace cam also I would have pulled the timing cover off and used the full timing method . Not being able to turn crank bolt clockwise is a bad sign . Too much to go wrong on this shortcut method . . I would have used the toothed tool to hold cam phasor for torque not vise grips . Plus I lift the cams and have no valves down during my timing jobs . I favor leaving the crank dot at six oclock and don't move it until all timing is in place with rollers in place and cams pointed by ford diagram . Cams are torqued down in sequence slowly . I use a helper to get chains on with helper holding cam bolt to fight spring pressure while i put chains on .
Then after a triple check of timing marks I turn engine with crank bolt 2 revs to prove not valve problem .
I question why you would use fan bolt during this procedure . The crank bolt is directly connected to the chains turning phasor there is no direct connection from fan to phasor .
Maybe I'm missing something .
Crank bolt not able to move is a red flag .I haven't used the wedge method but in this cam change out I would have thought the cam torque would have been done against vise grips on cam shaft ? How would that lead to shearing pin .I hand oil cam as I install it to prevent a dry lube situation but the down side is oil getting on exhaust manifold and smoking during start up . All lashs are soaked in oil over night .
When using the wedge method any negative sign means pulling the timing cover and starting from scratch.
Since the phasor did not turn at the same rate as the cam means it wasn't locked or pin not mated to hole that was a red flag . Was this an oem phasor ?