Rod knock or timing chain noise?
#1
Rod knock or timing chain noise?
I took a short video. What do you guys think?
I know the guides were deteriorating because I dropped the pan a few weeks ago and found some bits of plastic stuck up in the sump.
I recently installed a new harmonic balancer which seems to have made the noise worse? Is it possible I damaged the crank? I used the correct tool to remove the old one but did not use a tool to install the new one. I pounded it in far enough with a rubber mallet to get the factory bolt and washer in to bring it in the rest of the way.
I know the guides were deteriorating because I dropped the pan a few weeks ago and found some bits of plastic stuck up in the sump.
I recently installed a new harmonic balancer which seems to have made the noise worse? Is it possible I damaged the crank? I used the correct tool to remove the old one but did not use a tool to install the new one. I pounded it in far enough with a rubber mallet to get the factory bolt and washer in to bring it in the rest of the way.
#3
I've had rod knock before and it started out as a light tapping and over the course of a month or so it ended up a deafining knocking noise you could hear three blocks away and the motor finally locked up.
The sound you're hearing sorta started overnight.
#4
Have to hear it rev up then drop to an idle to guess, but kind of sounds like the cam followers knocking. Maybe there is an oil delivery issue to the heads, and failing oil pump, or just a defective cam follower.
Also could be a cam chain tensioner gasket blew out ? Pull the valve cover and do some visual inspecting.
Also could be a cam chain tensioner gasket blew out ? Pull the valve cover and do some visual inspecting.
#5
05 5.4l 3v s.crew lariat
Did you clean the oil pu screen
If you have plastic in pan then surely oil pickup is clogged . Its not hard to remove it and its still hard to clean . My guess is you need to address oil flow very soon and pull timing cover . I would flush engine real good . Newer oil pump 340hv sounds like a winner if you can save motor .
I used the old bolt without washer to get puller started then put new one with washer to go the rest of the way , I made my own tool to hold pulley to do the two step torque on it . But that's on a 5.4 .
I used the old bolt without washer to get puller started then put new one with washer to go the rest of the way , I made my own tool to hold pulley to do the two step torque on it . But that's on a 5.4 .
#6
I should probably add that some of the noise you're hearing is from a misfire I have not yet been able to remedy. I need to replace some of the wiring harness before I can isolate the "clacking sound" and upload another video.
I have new guides and tensioners arriving friday and chains just in case but I'm hoping and praying it's just a simple case of the chain slapping the timing cover because I cannot afford a rebuild right now.
As to the oil pump. Would that be throwing a code or should I be able to see an anomaly with the oil pressure? I'm trying to get away with doing this repair as cheap as possible because business has been quite bad lately, this is my work truck and I am strapped for cash.
I have new guides and tensioners arriving friday and chains just in case but I'm hoping and praying it's just a simple case of the chain slapping the timing cover because I cannot afford a rebuild right now.
As to the oil pump. Would that be throwing a code or should I be able to see an anomaly with the oil pressure? I'm trying to get away with doing this repair as cheap as possible because business has been quite bad lately, this is my work truck and I am strapped for cash.
#7
For the oil pump, the best way to see actual oil pressure is to remove the oil pressure switch behind the oil filter, tie in a fitting, hose, and gauge, and start engine to see what it's reading. Take a couple of readings with fresh starts of engine. Or to go cheap, pull valve covers, pull crank sensor, have someone turn over engine with the key while your looking for oil squirting out of lash adjusters.
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#8
I have an update and it's... not good.
I removed both valve covers and peeked down inside. The chain looks brand new, both guides on each side appear to be 100% intact, there was zero slack in the chain and I could not depress the tensioner with a screwdriver. They were also the new style tensioners which leads me to believe it had a timing job done y the previous owner not so long ago.
I rotated the crank to check the lifters and every single one had side to side play. Is this bad?
I'm not sure what else to look for.
I removed both valve covers and peeked down inside. The chain looks brand new, both guides on each side appear to be 100% intact, there was zero slack in the chain and I could not depress the tensioner with a screwdriver. They were also the new style tensioners which leads me to believe it had a timing job done y the previous owner not so long ago.
I rotated the crank to check the lifters and every single one had side to side play. Is this bad?
I'm not sure what else to look for.
#9
I have an update and it's... not good.
I removed both valve covers and peeked down inside. The chain looks brand new, both guides on each side appear to be 100% intact, there was zero slack in the chain and I could not depress the tensioner with a screwdriver. They were also the new style tensioners which leads me to believe it had a timing job done y the previous owner not so long ago.
I rotated the crank to check the lifters and every single one had side to side play. Is this bad?
I'm not sure what else to look for.
I removed both valve covers and peeked down inside. The chain looks brand new, both guides on each side appear to be 100% intact, there was zero slack in the chain and I could not depress the tensioner with a screwdriver. They were also the new style tensioners which leads me to believe it had a timing job done y the previous owner not so long ago.
I rotated the crank to check the lifters and every single one had side to side play. Is this bad?
I'm not sure what else to look for.
#10