Replaced fuel pump, No Start.
10-18-2019, 10:32 PM
#11
Senior Member
What location in that relay box did you take it out of? Did you even look at the website link I posted for the fusebox?
Besides, its this relay:
Controls either the A/C clutch or DRLs
Before you give up, check fuse 34, that provides power for injectors and PCM.
Besides, its this relay:
Controls either the A/C clutch or DRLs
Before you give up, check fuse 34, that provides power for injectors and PCM.
Last edited by ShirBlackspots; 10-18-2019 at 10:44 PM.
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o6S1D9e (10-02-2021)
10-18-2019, 11:07 PM
#12
Yes I did, and thank you for taking time to help. Fuse was good... buuuuut I put a new one in just because. Cut-off switch is good too. Im betting no injector activity. Going to test light them tomorrow. Then dowse it with gas and light a match. I need a good $6000 bonfire.
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backroad_barbie (11-25-2022),
o6S1D9e (10-02-2021)
10-18-2019, 11:21 PM
#14
iUnfortunately everything Ive done is from FTML’s videos. Step by step. Im working on getting a new wire harness and pcm to see if they help. $2000 in to the fix, another $1000 wont hurt.
3 months into this fix ��
3 months into this fix ��
10-19-2019, 06:44 PM
#15
Member
Truck ran fine before timing job? Yes?
Truck won’t run after timing job.
This points to something messed with during the job. Put a noid light on the injectors. Put a spark tester inline between a plug and coil. Test your crank sensor. I can almost guarantee it’ll be something silly and cheap. Are you getting fuel to the injectors?
Sell the truck if you want, but you’ll get 10x more for a running truck than non running truck. Selling as is won’t even recoup the cost of your timing parts...
Truck won’t run after timing job.
This points to something messed with during the job. Put a noid light on the injectors. Put a spark tester inline between a plug and coil. Test your crank sensor. I can almost guarantee it’ll be something silly and cheap. Are you getting fuel to the injectors?
Sell the truck if you want, but you’ll get 10x more for a running truck than non running truck. Selling as is won’t even recoup the cost of your timing parts...
Last edited by dukedkt442; 10-20-2019 at 09:41 AM.
10-19-2019, 10:50 PM
#19
Check the electrical connector at the fuel pump and make sure you are getting battery voltage and don't have some kind of voltage drop in the circuit. If you have good power and ground it has to be a faulty pump. Could just be making noise trying to do something which could be from low voltage to the pump or just a bad pump out of the box.
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snowway (10-19-2019)
10-21-2019, 03:59 PM
#20
I just ordered the oem fuel pump (solenoid) that I’m going to try to swap out of the old FSU/pump to verify the fuel pump is the culprit.
Also: there is a 5/16 quick connector on the interior side of the FSU (that connects to the fuel filter line on the exterior of the FSU) where does the opposite side of the line connect go. I wonder if that end has been jarred from removing the FSU and is leaking?
Also: there is a 5/16 quick connector on the interior side of the FSU (that connects to the fuel filter line on the exterior of the FSU) where does the opposite side of the line connect go. I wonder if that end has been jarred from removing the FSU and is leaking?