Removing valve covers, cant move the AC line help
#21
Senior Member
Thread Starter
got the timing components back on, lined up the link at the bottom for the crank gear and both phasers were off 1 link, got my son to help and pulled the phaser back off, turned each cam a little, timing marks and links lined up, put back together. Used a scrunched up roll of electrical tape that I wedged in between the chain to keep them tight, worked like a charm. Got dark so I will have to torque them down in the morning, glad I didn't torque them at the beginning, I would probably be looking for 2 new phaser bolts. Will rotate the engine a few times in the morning and if all feels good, start putting the covers back on. Neighbor works for ford and is gonna vacuum and recharge my ac for free when everything is running again. Feeling pretty good right now, cant wait to start her up and test drive.
Thanks all for your help, hopefully I wont run into any issues finishing this up.
Tom
Thanks all for your help, hopefully I wont run into any issues finishing this up.
Tom
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haha (08-27-2014)
#23
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Well not much of an update today, was kinda busy with the wife. Got the front cover on, put the harmonic balancer back on and left side valve cover (man, that back bolt is a pita). Gonna finish the cops, and connect all the cables on the left side before I move onto the right side tomorrow. Just hope I remember where all the cables plug into. Hopefully I get enough time to finish this project up tomorrow.
Tom
Tom
#24
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Here's my update today, got her closed back up, started her up and she sounded great. Let her idle in my driveway for about 20 minutes, shut her off, started her again, everything sounded great. Then during the test drive, here's what I got, about a block from my house, I got the check engine light, I figured I would get it checked at AutoZone since I was going there anyway. Here's the codes: P1000, probably because I had the battery disconnected, P0012 Bank 1 cam timing over retarded, every link was right on, I don't understand why this code came up, VCT Solenoids were good, links lined up and P2197 Heated O2 sensor Bank 2 Sensor 1 indicates Lean condition. Didn't have this before, didn't disconnect the O2 sensor. And I have a valve cover gasket leak on the left side that I have to take care of because it is pissing out oil on the manifold. Short of having to tear this thing back apart, is there anything that I can do to correct these issues, it is my daily driver to work and its time to go back to work tomorrow. Can someone point me in the right direction, I can fix the valve cover gasket today, but is it ok to drive until I can get some more time off from work?
Thanks for any assistance.
Tom
Thanks for any assistance.
Tom
#26
Senior Member
Thread Starter
The VCT Solenoids were not throwing any codes prior to the tear down and the screens looked good and clean. I am wondering if this could be a low oil symptom because I do have a leak on my left side that was covering my exhaust. I know that they are oil driven, i'm still waiting for the engine to cool and then i'm gonna check the torque and if necessary, pull the vc again and fix the gasket leak, then change the oil an top off to see if that help. To my understanding, the vehicle would idle bad if the timing were retarded or advanced, it idles great right now and no noise other than the injector tick. Am I right in my thoughts on the idle and timing? I have read other forums where individuals have received this code and found out they were really low on oil, topped off, and no more code. Thoughts on this anyone.
Thanks for all the assistance and any future advice.
Tom
Thanks for all the assistance and any future advice.
Tom
#27
Senior Member
Do you think that oil may have gotten into any of the electrical connections and is causing them to short? That may explain all three of the codes.
I think that if you're still running with the original vct's, it would be wise to replace them with the newer, updated versions. Of nothing else, that will provide a bit more protection for all the parts that you just replaced. Both vct's going bad could also give you the p1000 and p2197 codes, as mentioned earlier.
I think that if you're still running with the original vct's, it would be wise to replace them with the newer, updated versions. Of nothing else, that will provide a bit more protection for all the parts that you just replaced. Both vct's going bad could also give you the p1000 and p2197 codes, as mentioned earlier.
#28
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I will continue to check the connections, I appreciate all the responses and advice. I am going to have to pull the left vc off tomorrow morning to fix the oil leak, I tried tightening the bolts and could still see a visible leak from the second to the end at the bottom back end of the cover that is leaking directly on the O2 sensor. At the same time, I will look at both of the vct solenoids, I just can't imagine that they were good with no codes and now all of a sudden they go bad. But that is why I am on this site, to gain knowledge as well as camaraderie with fellow F150 owners. Keep the advice coming, I am soaking it up.
Tom
Tom
#29
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Forgot to mention that even when it gets up to operating temps, it still runs and idles around 500rpms, same as before the change. I have been reading a lot of threads here on this site concerning the p0012 code and everyone that has been posting this issue has stated that their idle was very rough, mine is not. Gonna get back on it tomorrow morning and fix that oil leak and continue troubleshooting.
tom
tom
#30
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Here's a link to a video I made with the new sound of the engine.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mXTK...ature=youtu.be
Tom
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mXTK...ature=youtu.be
Tom