CSprain

I have a 2006 F150 5.4 4x4 ext cab. The intake manifold controller runner motor has gone bad. I have a new imcr as well as intake gaskets. From what I have read you remove the intake and it is bolted to the back of the intake.


Any tips or tricks to completing this job? Any special tools or advice from someone who has done it? Anyone have a walk through?

Thanks in advance.

moulay

did you remove your manifold yet? I wrote a long step by step guide for you but this stupid site timed out on me and I lost the whole post. let me know if you still need the info.

Mod (Ret.)

This stupid site?

CSprain

I think he simply meant the frustrating quirks it may have.

And I haven't done it yet due to my truck is too tall to fit in my garage. So any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.

F150Torqued

[MENTION=155774]CSprain[/MENTION]:


I replaced the intake manifold and Charge Motion Control Valve (CMCV) on my 2004 5.4L about a month ago. It's a pretty good size job. Not so bad on removal if you get the Alternator, thermostat / water jacket cross-over, throttle body and everything out of the way.


The following post (relating to Fuel Rail Pressure sensor vacuum line) has some very good representative photos.


http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/10...any-ideas.html

The (other) vacuum port - on the drivers side rear of the manifold is just absolutely impossible to get to - on removal or reinstall. You have to pull the manifold up in front and forward to get your hand down there to reach the "L" shaped-formed vacuum hose. I wound up ADDING a new piece of vacuum line from that vacuum port to the Power Brake Booster - and gave up on trying to reconnect the factory one on reinstall. That was after spending about 4 hours and pulling the new manifold back out three or four times trying to figure out HOW I was going to reconnect it. [ see it at the 'right rear' of the valley in the last photo in the above post ]


I recommend disconnecting the main fuel line at the Fuel Rail, and remove the entire fuel rail - with all injectors to get it out of the way.


Also - I kind of damaged the wiring on my Cylinder Head Temperature Sensor (located on the bank 1 side of the valley) jockeying the manifold around on both removal & reinstall. I had to solder it and tape it back up. I recommend sticking a foot long piece of 1x2 board or something similar under the passenger side of the manifold to support it and keep it from rubbing on the wire to the CHTMP sensor while you're working to remove and reinstall the manifold.


Finally, inspect the CMCV on the first photo in the linked post. The electrical connector "release" (latch) is on the "intake manifold side" of the electrical connector with little to no space to get your fingers!! It's hard to get your fingers between there and feel it or squeeze it. But the release is NOT on the outside toward the firewall or the linkage rods - where I wasted lots of time feeling around and trying to unhook it. It is an absolute BITCH to reconnect! (Surprisingly - the CHTMP, Knock Sensor, Fuel Rail Pressure vacuum line, and CMCV wires all route between the linkage rods and the manifold.)


Other than these things, It's just a matter of attacking it like any other project.


By the way. Removing my vacuum leak - and perhaps the new CMCV - made my 200K mile 04 run / idle like a brand new truck.


GOOD LUCK.

moulay

sorry I didn't mean it that way, I just spent almost an hour typing then when I was about to send the reply it asked me to log in again and I have lost everything I typed. I apologize again.

moulay

Hello,


not sure if you got my private message but I will put it here also so that everybody can use the info




removing the intake is not that big of a task it might look challenging at first but if you do it once you can do it every weekend. the tricky part is when you get to disconnect wires behind the intake because of very limited space you have, it will take you about 3 hours from start to finish.
in the next steps you will need to unplug all the wires/hoses connected to what you will be removing. this is the best time to replace your spark plugs, thermostat, clean or replace your injectors, knock sensors, temp sensors, intake gaskets, throttle body, water pump....etc.


1- remove battery negative then drain the coolant
while the coolant is draining proceed to next steps, if you have an air compressor blow around the intake manifold to remove dust and debris


2-remove the air box


3- remove the throttle body (this is the best time to clean it if it was never done


4-disconnect all fuel injector wiring


5- relief pressure from fuel line if your truck has a pressure relief valve if not open the fuel cap then using a fuel rail disconnect tool disconnect the fuel rail from the fuel line (at this point you will need a rag to put under the connection place in case fuel squirts which probably will happen, if you are a smoker DONT)


6- you can either remove the fuel rail from the intake or leave it but I suggest to remove it to gain some extra room for next steps, it is also the best time to clean your fuel injectors.


7- remove the alternator (you will need to remove the serpentine belt) and put it aside.


8- unbolt the 10 screws that hold the intake to the head, use a crisscross pattern staring from the far ones. 10bolts include the coolant crossover membrane (where the big coolant hose connects to)


9- now the coolant should be done draining, remove the 2 hoses connected to the coolant membrane. (best time also to change your thermostat if needed)


10- this is where it gets a bit complicated.
with intake bolts removed, remove the coolant membrane first then gently wiggle the intake around until it moves freely (some old gaskets get sticky or when it is too cold ) DO NOT pry on it using any metal tools because you risk to damage the intake plastic or the aluminum head and create gouges that will leak into intake leaks.


once it moves freely you will need to do the following:


* there is a big wire attached to the back of the intake with a screw, get a pillow and set on top the metal frame above the radiator to gain some reach you can kneel or sit on it, you can also use a telescopic mirror and a flashlight to help you locate the screw, once you see it grab a wrench and remove it. but don't drop it or loose it.


* lift the intake and squeeze your hand under on the left side you will need to disconnect the plug that connects to your actuator, use mirror and flashlight to locate it.


* now you will need to remove the brake booster hose on the right side of the intake, Gently pull and twist on it until it pops, if not use WD40 and spray a small amount on the connection to make it easy. (most people have problems with this step)


* there are 2 tiny vacuum hoses coming from the bottom right side of the intake, one goes to the fuel rail (should have been removed when your removed the fuel rail and the other one goes to the left side, if should be located somewhere by the ECM, follow where it is going and disconnect it.


* if the intake can be pulled freely and easily then pull it forward SLOWLY, if you notice some resistance then probably your knock sensors were fed through the actuator arms, disconnect them first, one is on the right and one on the left (your knock sensors are located under the intake going to that big wire that was attached to the intake)


once you have done that now you can completely remove the intake.


11- immediately after removing the intake use some clean shop rags and shove them into the head holes to prevent debris from falling into engine. (this is the best time to replace your intake gaskets)


12- using brake cleaner clean around the head and the intake vents to remove varnish, carbon deposit, dirt and grime.


once you have replaced your actuator, you will need to reinstall your intake using the reverse order. BUT once you get to bolt the intake back you will need to follow a specific pattern and torque. check the picture below



follow the sequence above to tighten your intake first apply 18lb-in (2Nm) then 89lb-in (10Nm) following the same sequence.


Connect everything back together, fill your coolant to level and take your truck for a spin.


I hope this will help.


Good luck

Especial86

iTrader: (1)

I've got the whipple supercharger install manual that shows in great detail how to remove the manifold.. PM me your email for a PDF copy of it..




Here are some samples..

Kharter Che

Could you message me that manual?

Jojodapyro

That was 4 years ago.