beetlebz

Ok.... i know its just something stupid im missing, but ford has a part number for the outer CV boot... whats the trick to taking the CV apart so I can clean it out and rebuild it?

xJimbos

Remove inboard boot clamps, seperate inboard boot from the housing, remove the retaining ring and pull inboard cv joint from halfshaft housing, indexmark the inner race and the ball-cage, remove the ***** from the cage, remove the snap ring holding the inner race, remove the inner race and ball cage, remove the inboard boot, remove the outboard boot clamps, remove the outboard boot. If the outboard joint is worn then replace it, you cannot service it. Assembly is the reverse. Remember to align the indexmark between the race and ball-cage and grease the ***** before re-installation.
Re-pack the outboard joint with 5.82 ounces of grease (165 grams) and spread any remaining bits of grease around the inside of the outboard boot (if you're installing a new outboard joint which comes with that amount of grease, if you're not installing a new joint then just get close to that amount of new grease).
Fill the inboard joint with 8.29 ounces (235 grams) of grease. Again, there are kits (if you did not know).
Remember, before installing the inboard boot clamps you need to insert the inboard joint back into the housing and use a flathead screwdriver to carefully pull out the inboard boot a little to release any excess air pressure from within the inboard boot. Then install the inboard boot clamps.

I think I got everything. Sorry, no pics.

xJimbos

Does that make sense? You can service the inboad cv-joint, but the outboard joint must be replaced if worn.

RahX

The inboard is a slip joint that does a few angles, the outboard is the one that takes the most abuse. If it is worn, grease and a new boot won't help you. Rebuilding it is probably way cheaper than a new axle anyway.

beetlebz

omg, i never thought of going through the inboard CV joint to boot the outboard, i told you guys it would be something stupid i was missing lol

the outboard CV boot was still clean (very) and filled with grease, I only replaced it because I have the dreaded 4x4 actuator death grind, and the CV boot had a tear in it that was slowly leaking gease. I paid 70 bucks for the cheap non-leveling kit compatible CV, to buy me time to rebuild my factory one. It doesnt need to be rebuilt so much as rebooted and regreased. there is 0 gunk or grit in the outer CV

thanks guys!!

RahX

I used to work at a place that rebooted all kinds of CV axles. We used this crazy finger spreader gun thing that opened up the boot wide enough to go over the end of the axle. It saved you SOOOOO much time but I think you had to use a special boot that could expand that much. Anyway, long story short, it was a worthwhile tool for the amount of boots we replaced.