Rear power window problem#2. Is it just the switch??
Crew cab rear drivers window rolled down but wouldnt roll up. Using a test light, the plug going to the motor shows power on one side when going up, power on the other when going down.but the motor wouldnt move when switch to "going up". Put in a new dorman track and motor, hit the switch and NOTHING. Still will move down but not up. Playing around i mad a humoer wire that ciss crosse dthe two, so when i hit down on the switch , the motor DI roll.the window up...
IS this just a faulty switch in the door panel?? Whixh one would it be, the master switch on the drivers door or the single one on the rear door?? Same thing happens.when you use either
IS this just a faulty switch in the door panel?? Whixh one would it be, the master switch on the drivers door or the single one on the rear door?? Same thing happens.when you use either
Mine was doing the same thing but I have a 2007. I actually had two windows acting up. Also, would roll up if the door was wide open but not when shut. Finally fixed them all. It was broken wires in the wiring harness that goes from the body to the door. I had to pull the boot to one end, find the broken wires and put them all back together and gtg. But then again, I have 2007.
I am probably going to vote for having a look the door jamb wires as well but I'm not sure if I understand what you've done to test it already because it sounds like you have voltage at the window motor in both the up and down direction? I need to look at the wiring diagrams to refresh the memory of how the window circuits work.
If one side is positve and the other ground, but then the two switch depending on direction it doesnt sound like a broke wire.. becauae i have power on both sides depending on if up or down.. wouldnt this all track back to the switch
I looked at the Ford 2004 wiring diagrams manual. I suspect the 2007 is the same, or very similar. So hopefully this is the same on your truck.
It shows that the power to both sides of the motor comes from pin 4 of the left rear window switch. Also pin 5 (GY/OG) on the switch goes to ground (G) when the switch is in the up position, whereas pin 3 (YE/LB) goes to G when the switch is in the down position. My guess is that 3 actually gets to G but pin 5 doesn't.
To test this I would connect an ohmeter between pin 3 and G, then between pin 5 and G. Both should show very little resistance. If pin 3 shows little resistance and pin 5 shows no continuity, then I think there's a break in the wire from pin 5 to G, or a bad connection/splice between them.
Pin 5 goes to pin 1 on the driver’s door master switch. I’d inspect/test the GY/OG wire between them.
It shows that the power to both sides of the motor comes from pin 4 of the left rear window switch. Also pin 5 (GY/OG) on the switch goes to ground (G) when the switch is in the up position, whereas pin 3 (YE/LB) goes to G when the switch is in the down position. My guess is that 3 actually gets to G but pin 5 doesn't.
To test this I would connect an ohmeter between pin 3 and G, then between pin 5 and G. Both should show very little resistance. If pin 3 shows little resistance and pin 5 shows no continuity, then I think there's a break in the wire from pin 5 to G, or a bad connection/splice between them.
Pin 5 goes to pin 1 on the driver’s door master switch. I’d inspect/test the GY/OG wire between them.
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Yes I think maybe you have a break in the yellow/light blue wire (circuit 316) between the master switch and the rear door in the driver's door hinge area is the most likely place, but check the rear door hinge also.
Google "2005 f150 wiring diagram searchable"
the first result (devoll.com) is a PDF you can download for a 2005, but should be the same except maybe color codes
page 100-4 is one of the ones you want to look at
the first result (devoll.com) is a PDF you can download for a 2005, but should be the same except maybe color codes
page 100-4 is one of the ones you want to look at









