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Pulling my 5.4L

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Old Jul 18, 2009 | 07:26 PM
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RA Kid's Avatar
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11C Mortars Are Hung
 
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From: Tacoma, WA.
Default Pulling my 5.4L

I'm going to pull the motor out and need help with good "To-Do-Tips" while in the process. You might be asking why the hell.....!?!?! but I'm going to install a Whipple Supercharger, Stage 2 Crower Cams, Crower Valve Springs, Pace Setter Long Tube Headers, and possibly a 6.3L Paschal Stroker Kit. theirs the ancwers your probably asking.
I am asking for helpful tips along the way for anything listed and a general motor pull..
I am mechanically inclined but am looking more for the helpful tips while doing it..
Motor/Drivetrain: 5.4L 3V, 4X4
I figure it will be easier to do all the mods while the motor is out of the truck rather than in.. Thank you for your time and consideration..
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Old Jul 18, 2009 | 08:51 PM
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might want to rethink the long tubes - ive heard the short tubes are the better way to go with the 5.4. Just my opinion. Other then that sounds like you are building a beast
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Old Jul 18, 2009 | 09:30 PM
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hope your putting a built trans in there too..better have a dyno tune while your at it...gonna need bigger injectors....hi flow fuel pump....better have like 15grand to do it all right and so that it lasts....
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Old Jul 19, 2009 | 01:16 PM
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11C Mortars Are Hung
 
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I got offered a set of ford racing short tube headers but turned it down bc I already bought the long tubes, any reason why their bad?
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Old Jul 19, 2009 | 02:28 PM
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think it was more of a fitment problem more than anything. Im going to build my 5.4 some too but im only going with a non intercooled supercharger ($2400),a tuner and under pulleys. According to Tylus i will only be losing about 25 horse over the intercooled supercharger. So for less then half the $$ i think its more of the way to go.
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Old Jul 19, 2009 | 03:26 PM
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I think its best to get a manual for the job and follow the printed procedure exactly. If this is an automatic the torque converter stays with the trans. DO NOT PULL IT WITH THE ENGINE. It stays in the trans. It is impossible to align the converter with the tranny front pump with it connected to the flywheel.
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Old Jul 20, 2009 | 03:30 PM
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11C Mortars Are Hung
 
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how would I go about beefing up the trans to hold the power installed reliably?
I know really nothing about transmissions.. Motors are my thing
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Old Jul 20, 2009 | 07:55 PM
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Originally Posted by SF Kid
how would I go about beefing up the trans to hold the power installed reliably?
I know really nothing about transmissions.. Motors are my thing
well if i was you, i would just order a built trans from levelten.com, i hear good things about these guys. set ya back around 3000 bucks plus a core, but it take take a severe *** whooping. here is what they all do...i was gonna buy one of these but, won't be having the truck after next spring.

http://www.ford-trucks.com/article/i...n_Rebuild.html
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Old Jul 20, 2009 | 09:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Good old Bill
I think its best to get a manual for the job and follow the printed procedure exactly. If this is an automatic the torque converter stays with the trans. DO NOT PULL IT WITH THE ENGINE. It stays in the trans. It is impossible to align the converter with the tranny front pump with it connected to the flywheel.

Don't overlook this advice. If you forget to take off the 4 nuts that hold the torque converter to the flexplate, it will be bad.

Also, remove the intake manifold for both removal and installation. Believe me, your saving time by removing it. If you leave it on the motor is a pain in the *** to line up with the tranny.

Make sure you support the tranny when you slide the motor out. If you don't, it will twist and get all cockeyed. Also be harder to line up when your going back in.

Make sure you are meticulous of labeling nuts and bolts. Get cardboard and draw a crude drawing of whatever part it came out of and stick the bolts through the cardboard on your "diagram". If you don't, you will definetly not remember everything.

It's worth the money to get a tilt/leveler. Just take my word for it, ask Bill I'm sure he'll agree.

You'll need some LOOONG extensions and a handful of assorted swivels and sockets (I think their 13mm) to get to the top transmission bellhousing bolts.

When I pulled the motor, it yanked the fill tube out of the transmission because it's bolted to the block. I happened to be laying underneath and got about 6 quarts of transmission fluid in the face. This is a bad idea.
Note: remove transmission dip tube.

Yes, everything I've just said I've learned the hard way.


Summary: The hardest things about my last 5.4L motor swap. In order...

1. Lining up motor with transmission on reinstall.
2. Lining up motor mounts on reinstall.
3. Reinstalling transmission dip stick after motor was already in.
4. Cutting exhaust stud with stripped bolt by hand.
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Old Jul 21, 2009 | 06:56 AM
  #10  
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Originally Posted by rplatt56
might want to rethink the long tubes - ive heard the short tubes are the better way to go with the 5.4. Just my opinion. Other then that sounds like you are building a beast
Thats just false I got 30rwhp and 30rwtq from my pacesetter long tubes there is not a shorty header on the market that will gain with the 5.4 or the 4.6 over 15.
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