Joe1199

@papa tiger: The window is stuck. That is my problem. I can't get to the retaining clips due to the window being down all the way and not being able to get it up a inch or two so i can get to the clips. The motor is kaput so i don't know how to get my window up.
@Commander316: I tried that. I pressed the switch in the up position and banged on it with a wrench and a hammer, no go lol.

I'm just wondering why i can't get the window to slide up. My only guess is its binding somewhere but from what i can tell, the cables are all in there respective tracks.

papa tiger

remove your door speaker retainer inserts, loosen the regulator to wiggle it and loosen the rear retainer so as to wiggle the window some. It may be stuck in its track. That happens. Completely remove the door seal plastic and if you cannot get to the second retainer, simply align up where it is carefilly with a tape measure and drill a small hole. Make sure you touch the head of the retainer with a screwdriver or small probe through the small hole. If you have hit it enlarge the hole with a small hole saw, loosen the retainer and lift the glass up in shut position holding it there with tape and a wedge. Completely remove your regulator and replace the assembly. Now is the time to replace the track if it is damaged or the door window seal if it leaks. A lot of rust in the door is a sure bet it leaks. Also the regulator will be damaged. Make sure to wear PPE to safe guard cuts and rust in your cuts. When you loosen the first retainer and free the glass the 2nd retainer moves some. If you have to remove the regulator from its mountin in the door, that will allow movement of the window some if it isn't stuck in its track. Once the regulators are free from the door they fall around in there. Try doing one that is spring loaded on the back tailgate of a old suv, man that is a learning experience that takes all day.

Joe1199

@papa tiger: Thanks for the post. Were. were you ever in the Military? You said PPE. UPDATE. i got the window up. I found a truck savvy person at work and re trouble shot everything and found the motor to be good so he jumped the motor and the window went up. Everything suggest the driver side window control for the RR window is bad. He is thinking the relay in the switch isn't switching between up/down because everything else is working and/or getting power/ground. I want to thank everyone who put their 2 cents in.

Commander316

i thought you bypassed the switch and got nothing? PPE is what we call safety gear offshore and in shipyards

Joe1199

PPE is also a miltary term lol. I never touched the switch because i shot power at the motor and was getting power and i figured the switch was good. I also thought there was a fuse for both up and down for power windows but later found (at least on my truck) there is 1 30 amp fuse that covers power windows, moonroof and the sliding back window. He had to explain to me that the switch has a relay that was probley sticking.

papa tiger

You have 2/ 30 amp fuses #101 and #601 in PDM by battery for the power windows. It has a delay relay and one touch relay in it for windows also. Gem senses window closing and shuts off one touch relay. Ground is from the relay, or from master switch in driver door. Gem is behind side kick panel fuse box.

Joe1199

@papa tiger: What is PDM and where are these #101 and #601? I don't remember seeing anything in the manual about another fuse box, I just found the 1 on the passanger side and that was #401. BTW what does Gem stand for? Thanks papa.

18_F-150_XLT_Screw

iTrader: (1)

You may be able to just take the switch apart and clean your contacts... they get corroded with age and no longer work.... I think it is do somewhat to bad design... where the switch is, it seems to collect quite a bit of water if it's raining and I've got the window rolled down (like at a drive thru window).

papa tiger

My fault, I was looking at a 2004 diagram. 401 is Circuit breaker relay for windows. You have Diodes in the circuits for power switching. Have you run a HEC test? Do so by holding down the reset button and turning on the key to run. The first test will test the gauge sweeps, navigate the rest of the tests. The reason is the cluster is part of the window solid state circuitry. See if the CanBus network passes all its tests. Some are engineer gibberish codes.

flyndubya89

I had a similar problem but it turned out to be a bad connection to the driver side switch panel, was a quick fix. Using a soft face hammer on an electric motor will help it free up the static friction that has built up. I have to do the same thing to my lathe or air compressor if I haven't used them in quite some time. Now, if you use your windows often this may not be the solution, have you checked with your local Ford dealer?