Try pulling your MAF sensor and look at its condition. I could be reading intake air mass incorrectly.

If all this crazy stuff stops after about 5 mins. of driving that tells me that something is heating up, expanding, and stopping your problem. What does your coolant and engine oil look like? But that random misfire code is getting me. If you had a problem with a particular cylinder then you should get a code for just that cylinder. ahhh....

 

You know, I take back the solenoid thing. If the mechanics already pulled your valve covers and replaced all that crap then they should have checked the solenoids for things like sludge buildup. I mean, they want to make money right?
I thought a little more about the codes you are getting. I know this sounds silly, but did the mechanics replace the thin little throttle body gasket or check the larger black rubber gasket in between the TB and air filter housing? That thin TB gasket is easy for forget. Could the air filter housing have a crack in it or could the seams be leaking?
The codes you are getting sound cam-timing related but they could also be a result of too much air getting into the combustion chambers and the PCM not knowing about the real amount of air mass within. I mean, both banks reading lean (read at post combustion), then random misfire meaning the plugs are firing at the wrong time (possibly because too much air is already in the chamber, messing up the flame front), and an over-advanced timing code which (I think) is the PCM just guessing when it gets these other codes, which could mean it thinks the engine is over-advancing the intake valve timing even though it may not be. And then the whole thing about this mess stopping after 5 mins. of driving, like as if something is warming up and expanding, thus plugging a hole.
Also, your throttle body could be bad, even though you don't get any codes. I like the idea of tracing the wiring to see if anything is burnt or cut.
Put your hand behind the intake manifold and feel around for the CMCV. Sometimes the wiring harness that is supposed to be connected to one of the CMCV studs comes loose and gets in the way of the CMCV operation.
Sorry, I am just listing ideas now. But one of these things could fix everything. Try the easiest and cheapest things first. If all else fails I would go to a......Ford dealership......dun dun dunnnnnn...................At least you might be able to get a level 2 guy to look at the thing...for 200 bucks.........GOOD LUCK!!! Let me know if I can provide any more guesses.

 

Oh dang Dave, I'm sorry man, good luck with all that. xJimbos, thanks for the advice, that's a lot to take in and research but I certainly appreciate it, cause like I said I was straight out of ideas. I'm gonna do work on all that as soon as I get a night off of work. I'm gonna keep researching though, we'll see what we can do.

 

well I swapped the motor out this week. finally got it running yesterday afternoon. Advice? Let someone else do it. it was about 40 hours. good thing my friend has a repair shop. Any way I'm getting a p0171, p2006, and a p1602 code now. Not sure what that is. Any help?
Dave

hey Colt, any luck yet?

 

Well I read that:

P1602 means: Immobilizer module-(PCM) communication fault

The other codes are in the pics (the top pic is for P0171):

 

So I'm thinking: make sure all vacuum lines are connected properly, and in the right place. Did you guys have a layout of how to connect all of the EVAP vacuum lines?

Is the intake manifold bolted down to the proper torque? It doesn't take much and too much torque can cause leaks as well. I think it is supposed to me something like 9 or 10 ft/lbs.

Also, make sure all ground wires are connected properly and that they are free of corrosion.

 

I'm currently checking out this p2006 code. IMRC, as I know it this is only on 4.2L engines, but you have a 2004 so maybe yours has it. Here's a link to some crap about it:

http://www.f150online.com/forums/v6-...what-imrc.html

Edit: whops, I'm getting mixed up with who I am talking to. Dave, is your engine a 4.2L?

 

5.4

 

Sorry it's taken me so long guys, work this summer has been crazy and hasn't left much spare time, but we're about to pull the coils and see if it changes the running of the truck any at idle and see what we can't find. Wierd thing: I hooked the computer up to a code reader and after I finished pulling the codes I cleared them and it hasn't ran bad since. It still misses at around 1800 rpm when running in overdrive but the lurching and loud rattling hasn't happened anymore which leads me to believe it's a electrical problem concerning that, not mechanical. I think the missing is due to either an injector, plug, coil or a bad wire somewhere in between. Still working but if I come up with something I'll let ya'll know. I'm still thinking the reason for the advanced timing is the VCT...

 

Ok pulled all the coil connectors and every one made the truck idle worse. I'm thinking injectors now but I'm not sure if the truck being under load would magnify a miss that may not be noticed at idle. Also pulled the codes and now I have a hard P0020 Intake Camshaft Position Actuator Circuit/Open Bank 2. Anybody got an idea on that one? Oh and no more Advanced Timing code??