ceasefire49

NEW Ford 4.6L 5.4L Engine Right & Left Camshaft Timing Belt Chain Tensioner Kit

According to OEM select this is the latest upgrade.

EBC-150

The left has the same part number as I listed. the right one is plastic in their pic.

F150Torqued

I agree with @EBC-150. The "R" one (left in ad photo) IS the plastic. Shown as a 'Set' in the ad, I think I'd hesitate (OR AVOID) buying them from that vendor. Not sure you would know WHAT you are getting.

ceasefire49

Correct I just used the pic for ref. I ordered the part numbers from OEM select and both of those were metal and at about 140 for both not the price depicted here I missed these.

should look like this sorry http://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-FORD-4-6...3D222228622465

redfishtd

There's just not enough umpth to get any reading on oil pressure gauge but I do feel some oil was flowing since I pre loaded oil filter and pump . A stucco pan underneath engine helped contain excess oil from running on floor . It was messy for me but I always get dirty doing engine work .
That crank sensor is hard to deal with so I don't do that one, I read where you can unplug one of the pcm connectors also to stop it from starting . I did that too but I forget which one it was . The pedal to the floor is sufficient .
I really like the awareness of these metal tensioners that this discussion brings up. To be fair I think I first heard about them from f150torqued ,I just didn't know enough to follow through . That first timing job is a real learning curve if you try to get it into your head exactly how it works .
I feel the metal tensioners are more likely to prevent plastic guides from being whipped and broken .

F150Torqued

Thank god, I'm not the only one. I'm gonna' friend you for preventing my wife from killing me over the shirts I've ruined because I was just gonna' do ONE SIMPLE thing under the hood - on the way to a wedding or some special event!


On the more serious on topic note - I completely agree with @redfishtd: Pedal to the metal (during Key On Engine START) will not move an oil pressure gauge NOR prime a "DRY" oil pump. However, first filling a new one with gear oil or any viscous lubricant (or just 'marinating' it in a pan of motor oil before installation) and running the starter several seconds will circulate oil throughout the engine adequately - though no oil pressure will appear on a gauge. My wife's GM 3.6L v/6 with variable valve timing rattles like hell on cold startup. But I have trained her to hold the accelerator on the floor during the first 5-7 seconds of COLD, FIRST OF THE SAY start up, and NO RATTLE. (WOT defeats ignition on the Buick Enclave also!).


On the subject of Cast Iron Metal tensioners - part numbers @EBC-150 listed in Post#18 above match my parts list. A question I was _NEVER_ able to resolve to my satisfaction was - are there two types of Metal Tensioners, RATCHET STYLE and NON-RATCHET STYLE ? The ones I ordered & installed stated they were "RATCHET" type on my theory that once tensioners extend to remove any slack - I saw no reason for them to ever retreat or relax. However, I have 'since' read Ford engineers reasoning for moving away from the ratchet style was that on police fleets or vehicles that frequently experienced high revs, it tends to kept higher residual tension on chains all the times - reducing life of chains and front cam journal bearing. That all makes sense to me, and may be a downside for ME. Non-ratched (if there is such), but METAL could have merit. I may be an old codger, but pedal to the metal operating conditions is not limited only to ignition key startup for me. I am perfectly capable of surprising youngsters with jacked up Chevys every once in a while.


I believe the Triton modular engine has THREE unique 'characteristics' that plays heavily into the oil pump / tensioner discussion:


FIRST: I think the plastic tensioners deform / warp under bolt torque (perhaps over torque) and perhaps age and heat cycles, and the gaskets are inferior - leading to low rpm oil pressure loss since tensioners are physically downstream from the oil pressure restrictors in the cylinder head galleys. (sends many of us in search of higher volume pumps - perhaps unnecessarily).


SECOND: The three valve design [with two (2) valve springs to depress on one stroke and only ONE (1) valve spring to depress on the other stroke] results in HEAVILY IRREGULAR cam rotation torque - jacking the phasers / chains / timing components back and forth. This results in idle noise in phasers and chains slapping/breaking plastic guides IF THE FIRST CONDITION EXISTS, -AND- when normal chain ware reaches the inevitable point where tensioners are fully extended and can no longer remove ALL the slack from chains. (inevitable being somewhere between 150 to 250K depending on maintenance quality.)


THIRD: Misfires from a variety of causes, are aggravated by the FIRST & SECOND item above and are more prone to occur at low rpm under load - further aggravated by the fact that all chain wear, slack, is pushed to the 'trailing' side of cam rotation. Though slight it nevertheless results in UNWANTED retard under a load. THEN - misfires, if chains are not sufficiently tight, slap the hell out of guides destroying them, sending plastic debris into the oil pump pickup tube screen reducing oil flow volume, and conditions avalanche into the necessity of a full timing job.


Is that 2¢ worth, but someone may need to spot me a penny.


@ceasefire49, those in your link look exactly like the ones I used - and I bought a bunch of stuff from ModularMotorSports. They are really good guys.