Lostintranslation

I recently finished a timing job on my 2005 F150, it started up great and ran great at idle, took it for a test drive and the rattling started so I turned around and came home, pulled in to the driveway put it in park and the rattle stopped. Also the oil pressure gauge dropped to 0 but came back up after I shut the engine off and restarted. I changed the oil pan gasket when I changed the chains and tensioners because the passenger side guide was completely gone, dropped the pan to get the pieces out. I can't figure out why it's doing this any help would be appreciated

ShirBlackspots

You should replace the oil pressure switch. Its above the oil filter, on the left side of the engine. But since it was rattling, do you buy quality parts, or cheap aftermarket?

Lostintranslation

Everything I used was OEM , except for the pump. But I researched it before purchasing it and felt pretty comfortable with the purchase when though it wasn't high end like a melling, the only reason it was rattling though was because I had no oil pressure as soon as I parked the oil pressure came back up

Ecobuilder

You're going to need to run some MMO and do one or two (maybe more) short OCI. I'm suspecting you have an intermittent blockage or some restriction in your oil pathway, either from some sludge/dirt or maybe some leftover particles.

Did you remove and thoroughly clean the VCT housing? Which oil pump did you install?

You can replace 1 qt of oil for the MMO. Change the filter (MC FL-820S) each time. Use an inexpensive oil for the short OCI - 200-500 miles - PYB or even Pennzoil Platinum with the rebate - can't go wrong.

MMO = Marvel Mystery Oil
OCI = Oil Change Interval
PYB = Pennzoil Yellow Bottle

Lostintranslation

Everything was cleaned, I put everything on the top end except good the rollers are brand new, only thing I can think of is the last guide I replaced was completely gone so maybe I didn't get everything out, but I cleaned the pan and filter

JCR 56

Better check the pickup tube again. Hopefully it's not the pump.

redfishtd

The melling hv 360 or hv 340 is not that expensive you can buy it on amazon . So many things have to depend on oil flow on this engine . You have to watch the paper stickers on guides /parts ,there have been some clogs in oil system that was cause by them coming off inside timing cover . Thats past the filter so its real bad . You should do an engine flush maybe let it sit overnight . Use cheaper conventional oil and change out several times over a week or two. I run 1 quart of marvel m o and do an engine flush every other time .
The timing cover labor is painful I would do it just right the first time . I think you may have to drop oil pan and clean again after flush .Gasket is reusable but use new rtv on joints . I hope you used fairly new vcts . Better check crank end play and see if thrust washers in oil pan if so its reman time .

Jojodapyro

" though it wasn't high end like a melling "

So you saved what... $30? My Melling pump was like $160. You decided to cheap out on the most important part?

Lostintranslation

I decided on what was good for my budget at the time

Lostintranslation

I ordered a melling 360 today, going to start tearing the motor apart again tomorrow morning. My question today is will I have to go through the steps of resetting the timing again at tdc or can I realign the marks and go from there?