BigTerp

OK. I sat down and watched the video ShirBlackspots posted back in post #21 after finding my corroded FPDM (new one is on the way as we speak). Really informative, thanks for sharing!! Also climbed under the truck and inspected things as well as under the hood. A few rust issues underneath, but overall the frame is in good shape. There is a new fuel tank, exhaust and many new items on both front wheels. Looks like there was some CV shaft work/replacement up there. A little moisture on the rear diff. It's presenting on the drive shaft side and driver side of the pumpkin. Not enough that I'd consider it a leak by any means, but just some moisture. I do plan on changing the fluid back there (as well as the front diff and transfer case) with my next oil change at 60k A few things of concern.....

-At 8:45 in the video he addresses the power steering line corrosion. Mine is TERRIBLE looking. I tried finding the schematic for the power steering system, but everything I come across is confusing. I can't figure out what part(s) I need. How much of a job is this to replace? Something I can do easily in my driveway?

-The transfer case motor is pretty rusted. Not the whole assembly, but the black motor itself. Should've taken a picture. I don't think you can just buy and replace the motor though. Replace the whole assembly? Or is pretty good surface rust on the motor acceptable?

- This morning I popped the hood before I started the truck. Ran up front to listen, and there was a steady tick on the passenger side right in front of the valve train. It only lasted 5-10 seconds or so until the truck settled down to normal idle. At that point it went away. I'm assuming this was coming from right were the passenger side cam phaser is located. What does that tell you guys about the timing set?

-Another tick I'm getting is coming from the valve train itself, both sides. It's nothing loud, but a steady tick at idle (I had no way of checking this morning under higher rpm's) and the same volume on both sides. Doesn't sound like any cylinder is louder than the rest. It sounds like that typical "diesel engine sound" guys with this motor describe. It's only noticeable while under the hood, and maybe slightly noticeable from the wheel wells with the hood. Is that just normal injector noise?

-Other than the whine/whistle I described earlier in this thread, I hear nothing at all from the cab across all rpm's. I now think the whine/whistle is coming from the alternator as discussed in FordTechMakuloco's video. Which seems like nothing to be concerned about other than the annoyance.

With all of that said, I'd like to keep this truck as long as possible. Cosmetically, both inside and out, it's in great shape and the size will serve me perfectly with 2 growing kids. I'd like to address the issues that these 5.4L 3V's are known for so I can get as much out of this motor as possible. I don't mind doing preemptive maintenance on things like the timing set, plugs, etc. I'm just not sure what is needed and how soon I need to address these things considering the symptoms above. My wife teaches at a prison with a training center. They have a body shop and mechanic shop. Both guys that teach those shops I know and trust and they are good at what they do. They have both done a lot of work on my '07. The body shop guy is going to knock down all the rust that he can underneath and apply some rust preventative. I'm going to have the mechanic give everything a good look and get his thoughts. Not sure how experienced he is with these Tritons, but if he knows his way around this engine, I'll get him to do most of the major work. Having it done there is basically zero labor cost for me plus I'm not comfortable enough nor have the time to do things like the timing set and plug change on my own. My wife goes back to work next work from maternity leave, so I hope to have my truck in there in the next 2 weeks or so.

FWIW, below are some readings I got on my Edge on my way to work this morning. My drive to work is about 17 minutes with a few stop lights and two lane roads up to about 65 mph with one stop to drop my kid off at daycare.

Fuel Rail Pressure - Stayed right around 40 the whole way
Engine Oil Temperature - Maxed out at 187ish
Transmission Fluid Temperature - Maxed out at 147ish
Cylinder Head Temperature - Maxed out at 206

BigTerp

Forgot to mention that I noticed when Ford replaced my 4x4 solenoid they didn't use the hooded version. I'm sure it'll fail eventually down the road with the way the water runs off the wiper cowl right on top of it. Looked around, but it doesn't look like I can buy just the hood. Anyone know if it's possible to get just the hood and retro fit it around the new solenoid?

dukedkt442

Big difference between ticks and knocks. Diesels don’t tick, they knock. The injectors on these trucks can be loud, you may be hearing those, touch to diagnose over the interment. A phaser knock is usually guttural enough that you can feel it standing next to the truck.

If you are planning on immediately dumping money into the truck for frame and engine work, why not just get a truck that doesn’t require such headaches?

BigTerp

Definitely ticks that I'm hearing after reading that description. Can't say I've ever heard an engine knock before, so I wasn't really sure. I'm pretty confident it just intjector noise. Thanks for the explanation.

Like I said, a few rust issues but the frame is in good shape. I don't foresee any long term rust problems after crawling underneath and taking a good look, especially with the frame. For what I paid for a crew cab truck (which I really needed) with 57K miles I can't complain, even if I had to address some fairly major engine issues. After a bunch of research and the insight from you guys I don't believe I have anything at all (engine wise) that needs immediate attention. Just wanted to get some insight on how I can make this truck last as long as possible. I never knew about the timing or even the FPDM issues with my '07 that I had for 9+ years before the education I got from this thread. Now I know what to keep an eye on. Thanks for that!! For now the plan is both front and rear diff fluid changes, transfer case fluid change, oil change and plug change all on the next 3k miles. Then it'll be a custom 2.5" exhaust (cause I miss the sound of my '07) and some custom tunes to hopefully wake this truck up a bit.

BigTerp

Alright, I've worked up the nerve to tackle the plug change on my own. Cannot stomach paying the local shot $461 + time for each broken plug when I can do it myself for under $300 and end up with a new tool (pneumatic impact) that I'm sure I'll get plenty of use out of. I plan to use FordTechMakuloco's method outlined in the video below of using a stubby impact on a hot engine to remove the plugs. Guys seem to have good success this way versus the carb cleaner and slowly working them by hand that the Ford TSB describes. Plan to run a can of seafoam through a tank of gas prior to attempting this. Seems like this has helped others. Do you guys agree with this method? Using the impact do you just go to town, or is there a suggested compressor setting (I think I read 60-80psi somewhere) or impact setting that works best? Plan on picking up the Harbor Freight stubby impact for this project. Anything wrong with this particular tool? https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-...nch-63534.html Probably going to go ahead and change out the coils while I'm in there as well.


Also going to handle both differential fluid changes and transfer case fluid change in the driveway. I'm more than capable of doing the work, so why pay a shop? Rear is simple enough. Crack the cover, remove, drain, clean mating surfaces, gasket maker on the cover, back on and then refill. Transfer case is pretty straight forward as well. The front diff seems to be the most challenging. Do you guys suggest removing the cover just like the rear? Or just sucking out the old fluid and filling with new? Seems like either method is a pain, with the cover removal being a bit more difficult. If I do remove the cover do I just use gasket maker like on the rear, or is an actual gasket recommended?

Any suggestions/tips to make any of the above work go smoothly is appreciated!!!

nathan3306

Run sea foam or marvel mystery oil in the fuel tank and a little in the engine oil. I ran about three tank cycles prior to the change.
Pull the spark plug boots and spray a little penetrating lube down in the channels. Do that 1 week prior to the job.
The night before the job, spray the plugs again and let is soak over night. Then apply a little bit more in the morning. You don't want to use too much as you can hydrolock the motor. I'm talking minor short burst from the can and that is it.

Run the motor for a little while. You don't want it hot but a little warm is perfect. I used a dewalt 20v impact and zipped them out. I attached the spark plug socket to the impact, kept direct in-line pressure and let the impact do the work. I got all eight out with no breaks.

I used the sucking method for the front diff. I did the same as you described for the rear but I broke a bolt putting the cover back on.... transfer case is simple enough but I would highly suggest getting the pump for the bottles. That will make life much better. Oh, grab some of your favorite beverages and enjoy saving a grand in labor.

ShirBlackspots

Yes, his method works extremely well. I ran a can of Seafoam in the tank before doing the plugs. Then the day of, let the engine run for maybe 15 minutes, and used my impact wrench to get the front four. Though for the back four, I used a 24" 1/2" wrench because my impact wrench I had at the time was too big. I didn't break a single one. I bought the broken spark plug removal tool, just in case. Also bought the kit to fix damaged threads for the 3 valve 5.4L spark plug wells, but it wound up being I didn't need it, so I returned it (I thought I stripped the #2 right side threads after using the impact wrench, because I couldn't get a spark plug to go back in. I got one of those little cameras to look at the threads, and tried with a different plug. It went in, with a little bit of resistance at first. Didn't cross thread it, though). BTW, that impact wrench is awesome. I have one.


Ignore the one plug that's cleaned. I took some sandpaper to it, for no reason at all

BigTerp

Thanks for the response!! I was eyeing up the Dewalt cordless impact for this job as well. I have a few of the Dewalt 20V Max tools already, and would probably get more use out of a cordless versus pneumatic anyway. Just wasn't sure if the Dewalt had enough oomph for the plug job. You used full power with the Dewalt cordless on the plugs? What extension and/or knuckles did you need to get the job done? How many miles did you have on your plugs before you changed them? Original? I think I'm a bit ahead of the curve with my mileage, but the overall engine age concerns me a bit.

What did you use to get the fluid out of the front diff?

BigTerp

ShirBlackspots, missed your post. Thanks for the encouragement. Pretty intimidating task, but I'm determined to do it myself.

dukedkt442

I wouldn’t ever use a suction to remove fluid, unless something like my X3 where there’s no drain plug or removeable cover. The front diff is easy...loosen all bolts except the top, slowly drain fluid, remove bolt and cover, wipe out all debris. Contrary to what some may claim, the front diff cover comes out perfectly fine without having to touch any part of the steering. There is no gasket from the factory just sealant, so scrape off all seaalant from the cover and case, and use the gasket for an 8.8 rear diff and green RTV if you desire. Any 75w-90 syn will work, I only use Redline in all my diffs (7 total). Use regular mercon for the transfer case, not the mercon v for the transmission.