redfishtd

Yes its still slippery but combustion carbon is the problem it clogs the screens and small passages . Get it out before 5k . Keep it clean .
I don't care if the pope sends you purple holy oil its going to get combustion carbon in it . Dump it .
Yes use a good quality syn , you don't want sludge or too much varnish . No heavy additives or thick oil to mask the engine noises .
Once that build up is in there an engine flush is going to jam everything up .
I did that just before my tear down and the engine did get much worse.
Now I use full syn 5w30 because I live in a hot climate and I run marvel m oil for its cleaning properties .
But if I lived in upper canada I would do things differently , they have terribly sludged engines . Extreme heating cooling cycles --moisture condensation in oil? Who wants to change oil when its 20 below zero . Oil 200 degrees when running, every night it goes below zero - wow .
And for you folks running dirt roads-- change it more often. Dirt in air/ gas burnt gets in oil .

LariatDude

I finally was able to find out the truth behind running 30 weight oil in this engine in other countries. The reason I couldn't find anything under the name Triton was because they used a different name. In Australia, the 5.4 3v Triton equivalent is known as the Barra 220/230 and calls for 10w-30. Same engine, different applications. Quoted from Wiki:

"In 2002, Ford introduced a new 3-valve SOHC cylinder head with variable camshaft timing (VCT), improving power and torque over the previous 2-valve SOHC version. The 3-valve cylinder head was first used on the 2002 Ford Fairmont 5.4 L Barra 220 engine in Australia. The 3-valve 5.4 L was introduced to the North American market in the redesigned 2004 Ford F-150."

And then another link: http://australiancar.reviews/Barra_V8_Engine.php

So yes, I wholeheartedly agree that 5w-30 can be run in our Triton

Eric Kleven

5w-30 for certain, MMO works nice-and-easy for cleaning things out and keeping your rings free. Whoever was saying they had high consumption early in this thread, try it for a couple of oil changes, it's good stuff. Get your rings cleaned up and oil consumption might drop. Worth a shot for what it costs.

On-topic: I don't know if I'd go with the M1AP, there's too much talk around about how sensitive these engines are to any kind of varnish or sludge... If you KNOW your fuel injectors are working right and your ignition is strong, it might be worth a shot. Still not sure I'd do it without starting low and working up the mileage with lab results.

650NutKase

I would not recommend M1AP. In a beater, or a car that doesn't care about oil, go for it. These trucks with their already terrible vvt systems need to have clean oil as often as possible. I do 5k runs. I choose what ever is on sale or rollback. I currently have 12 qts of 5w30 Milesyn blend, 10 qts of Magnatec, and 10 qts of Mobil 1. All in the 5w30 flavor and all will see 5k runs on my truck and my girl's corolla.

Eric Kleven

my 2-cents: I'm running Formula Shell 5w-30, 5qt jug at Home Depot was $13.27 the last time I bought one. 5k ~ish oil changes. My truck HATES it when I change brand/weights of oil; it'll throw a quart in about 800 miles, and then another half by 2,000 before it gets used to what's been put in there.

HubFord

Do you run MMO for the entire OCI? How much of the 7 quarts is MMO?

Eric Kleven

I have, with 5w-30 I wouldn't be afraid of running 6qts of oil and 1qt of MMO. Check your oil frequently, I ran that much with 10w-30 Delo XLE 400 diesel oil (highly recommend 10w-30 or 5w-40 synth diesel oil for any engine cleaning), and my engine was dirty enough that I couldn't see the cross-hatches on the dipstick 2,000 miles later. (Followed it up with a 1.5oz per quart B12 chemtool flush at the next oil change, there were legit 'globbs' of nasty coming out of the drain plug.)



Otherwise, I've been running a pint every few oil changes as a maintenance dose.

Jamieat

Interesting...

Does it concern you that freeing up theses "globbs" into circulation might clog passageways or create other issues with the circulation system?

Just curious, never heard of that b5!!!

HubFord

Reading online, canned engine flushes are frowned upon for loosing up too much. Adding MMO to oil seems to be OK to help clean a little more, but there are so many opinions about this as anything on the internets.

Eric Kleven

At the time, no. Even now, it still doesn't. I was trying to hopefully clean up some varnish (which I saw under the oil fill cap) that may have been screwing with my VCT solenoids. I was doing the cheap thing to get my engine running right, and if that didn't work I was looking at a phaser job.
Turns out I was looking at a phaser job anyways.

The globs that did come out, I'm pretty sure were fully loosened up by the B12 fast flush I did for 15 minutes before dumping that pan of oil. Even if the MMO did put them in the pan, they looked mobile enough that the pump could have sucked them through the strainer and chewed them right into the oil filter. If they made it through the pump and the oil filter, it's pretty unlikely they would have been able to clog anything.

When I cut the oil filter open after that episode, there wasn't much in it for 'crud'. I mean, it was pitch black, but there wasn't any goo in it.