nugget68

OK guys, I'll start off by giving you a little history on my truck... 2005 Lariet, bought in Feb this year. PO replaced plugs with correct Motorcraft plugs, Accel COP's. I pulled all the plugs to confirm and they were the new ones, however some where pretty loose, so I cleaned them up and torqued to 28 ft lbs. before doing all this the truck had a tick that sounded like an exhaust leak, but I had just replaced then passengers side manifold so I was a little confused at that, turns out the #4 plug was only hand tight, so I must have been hearing the tickets coming from there because it went away when I re-tourqed the plugs. After all this truck was running good, sounded good, still some phaser noise after warmed up though. I had timing chain set and tensioners along with Ford racing high volume oil pump replaced recently too, and one of the tensioners was brittle and I haven't dropped the oil pan yet to make sure the tube is clear, I'm hoping that's all it is with the phaser noise... OK, so now on to the trouble now... I noticed the other day when going around 50 mph and giving it slight gas, it felt like I was in a standard and needed to down shift. Truck ran fine. under normal conditions. I'll tan my fault codes and got the following below. I read up and think I know that I'm going to have to replace my catalytic converter, but want your guys thoughts... when I punch it, the engine doesn't have the power it used to just last week, when I hit about 70, truck misfires terribly and won't go faster. I've got tourqe app and a cheap Bluetooth obd 2 scanner. here's some data I've taken. I'm not real good at using the app, so if anyone has some tips for further tests, I'm all ears... thanks in advance
Ryan

Test report:
------------------
MID:$01 TID:$01
Rich to Lean sensor threshold voltage(constant) - O2 Bank 1 Sensor 1
Max: 7.99527V Min: 0V
Test result value: 0.44994V
PASS
----
MID:$01 TID:$80
- O2 Bank 1 Sensor 1
Max: 7.99527V Min: 0.49996V
Test result value: 0.71529V
PASS
----
MID:$01 TID:$81
- O2 Bank 1 Sensor 1
Max: 3A Min: 0.23A
Test result value: 0.478A
PASS
----
MID:$02 TID:$01
Rich to Lean sensor threshold voltage(constant) - O2 Bank 1 Sensor 2
Max: 7.99527V Min: 0V
Test result value: 0.44994V
PASS
----
MID:$02 TID:$81
- O2 Bank 1 Sensor 2
Max: 3A Min: 0.23A
Test result value: 0.461A
PASS
----
MID:$03 TID:$01
Rich to Lean sensor threshold voltage(constant) - O2 Bank 1 Sensor 3
Max: 7.99527V Min: 0V
Test result value: 0.44994V
PASS
----
MID:$03 TID:$81
- O2 Bank 1 Sensor 3
Max: 3A Min: 0.23A
Test result value: 0A
FAIL
----
MID:$05 TID:$01
Rich to Lean sensor threshold voltage(constant) - O2 Bank 2 Sensor 1
Max: 7.99527V Min: 0V
Test result value: 0.44994V
PASS
----
MID:$05 TID:$80
- O2 Bank 2 Sensor 1
Max: 7.99527V Min: 0.49996V
Test result value: 0.70992V
PASS
----
MID:$05 TID:$81
- O2 Bank 2 Sensor 1
Max: 3A Min: 0.23A
Test result value: 0.469A
PASS
----
MID:$06 TID:$01
Rich to Lean sensor threshold voltage(constant) - O2 Bank 2 Sensor 2
Max: 7.99527V Min: 0V
Test result value: 0.44994V
PASS
----
MID:$06 TID:$81
- O2 Bank 2 Sensor 2
Max: 3A Min: 0.23A
Test result value: 0.473A
PASS
----
MID:$07 TID:$01
Rich to Lean sensor threshold voltage(constant) - O2 Bank 2 Sensor 3
Max: 7.99527V Min: 0V
Test result value: 0.44994V
PASS
----
MID:$07 TID:$81
- O2 Bank 2 Sensor 3
Max: 3A Min: 0.23A
Test result value: 0A
FAIL
----


End of report

nugget68

small update... I popped the hood on my lunch break just to get a look at the motor to see if anything obvious was out of place like an unplugged wire or something... I noticed my intake tube that goes in to the fender well was loose from the fender and had a leaf or two in it, so I took it off and got the leaf particles out and cleared the codes. went in a ten mile drive and truck seemed to run better at regular driving, but got Misfires on cylinder 1 again and the cam position sensor code too, which I think is because of the oil pressure/phaser issue. so hopefully that air leak was what was causing the p0430 issue. I'll remove #1 plug this evening and inspect and report back...

nugget68

still getting misfires, how can I check my injectors?

techrep

iTrader: (1)

With all the 02 sensor codes I would look at the cats being clogged.. goes with the symptoms too.

redfishtd

What I have read is that you can look for a failed cat by temperature. The cat that is bad will be cooler on the output than the input . Or you can do an input output pressure difference .
When you found these loose plugs did you clean them off ,surely they had some
blow-by carbon on them . I might have even replaced them at that point ,how about the boots and dielectric grease . I wouldn't by surprised by some damage there.
I replaced all my injectors at 100k , let her sit with the battery cable off for a long time to bleed down pressure as you don't want gas to go everywhere on a hot engine . Use a lot off rags around injectors to soak it up .
If you had bad guides or tensioners broken I would think who ever changed oil pump would have cleaned out the pickup screen tube . That part is rough to get cleaned up even when you get it out of there , Not to mention pieces in oil pan waiting to get sucked up . This engine is very touchy about oil flow .
Oh I re-read your post you did clean the plugs my bad , I would try a new oem coil on no.1 . Good luck with her !

F150Torqued

@nugget68 I don't believe I would be "checking injectors" at this point - even though I am in favor of replacing them > 100K. I'd focus on the OBDII codes and methodically remove each of them and see where THAT leads you.

From symptoms mentioned I agree with @Techrep - but notice exactly what he said, "I would look at the cats being clogged". That doesn't mean the same as you said - "going to have to replace my catalytic". Your 0430 code MAY BE the result of a bad cat, but deserves further investigation, ie "look at the cats being clogged."


You actually have a very good scanner facility in Torque Pro - however it is hard for ANY scanner to test for clogged cats. Our vehicles just do not have the right sensors for it - like Exhaust Pressure or Cat Temperature. Darn it.


Torque Pro is a VERY valuable tool but requires good bit of effort to interpret the readings. Such as the Mode $06 "Test Results" you included. A Mode 06 OBDII query produces an "instantaneous, snapshot" of readings from various components. Just understand that in a dynamic environment, those readings are changing ALL THE TIME. Therefore, each test has the Manufacturers spec range - MAX: and MIN:. If the current reading is between those, the test is 'PASS', otherwise 'FAIL'. Notice your vehicle does NOT have an O2 Sensor 3. So each of those tests (Manufacturer ID's 03 and 07 - Test Id' 81) 'FAIL'. It is not that these tests are not useful - they ARE. You don't have to crawl under the vehicle with your Volt Meter to test O2 sensor voltages. Just realize, you can run the test 100 times and on dynamic data - you are going to get different data every time - hopefully within the MAX and MIN specified by the manufacturer.


In many ways - for your misfire issue, "FREEZE FRAME DATA" is better as it gives you many other readings "FROZEN" at the time a DTC is set. It should always be read (and emailed to yourself with Torque Pro) before you clear codes so you can study the information. You'll find it VERY interesting.


As for Torque Pro and your situation - I would create a dashboard screen with "Graph" gauges for upstream and downstream O2's for both banks - and Dial Needle gauges for Short Term / Long Term fuel trim. And monitor those (plus perhaps other things) under different driving conditions. If a cat is BAD (OR CLOGGED), the downstream graph waveform will track the upstream waveform - even after the PCM goes into closed loop, where the upstream O2 graph waveform should swing back and forth between about .6v and .9v. Let us know what fuel trims are doing under various conditions. If your P0340 is the result of cam timing problem, they may be positive on one bank and negative on the other.


Lastly - I would be concerned about the P0340 & P0344 codes after you have replaced chains and guides. Make sure ALL electrical connections are all good associated with Passenger side CPS. Meanwhile perhaps monitoring the above signals, and checking for clogged CAT can get rid of the 0430, then go from there.


BTW - I agree completely with @redfishtd. The Previous Owner may not have replaced the boots. Another thing, depending on mileage it would not hurt to replace O2's if they have over 100K on them.
Good Luck

F150Torqued

@nugget68
Something like this.
...






I just created this dashboard screen and ran out to my truck, started it up and grabbed this screenshot. I let it idle long enough to go into closed loop, but the CATS have not warmed up enough to start working. When they do the bottom graphs (O2 2 bank 2 & O2 2 Bank 1) will settle down into a fairly straight squiggly line at about .6 v.


I threw the "MAF" (grams/sec) digital gauge in there thinking it might help look at CAT flow. But thinking about it more --- I the engine will inhale the same amount of air for a given displacement. It just cant expel it, so exhaust manifold pressure would go up - NOT intake go down. So that is meaningless.


As always - good luck

nugget68

Thanks... I haven't had time yet to set up this dashboard and monitor my o2 sensors, but I got to thinking that since I have 137,000 miles on my truck, and 8m sure the o2's are original anyway, I went ahead and order 24 new ones... I lucked out and found the correct notorcraft dy992 and dy835 on ebay for $25 each... I'll try and update as soon as I get them in...

tareed94

Ordered 24 new what?

nugget68

haha, 4 new o2 sensors, i guess i should have proof read that. . .