Hey all. Pretty sure I have the infamous manifold tick on my 05 Screw with the 5.4. I am not sure how to 100% confirm it....I just know that the ticking is much louder under the truck rather than under the hood. For awhile I was worried about phaser tick, but I am pretty confident that it is the manifold on the passenger side. So, a couple questions.

1. Do you buy new manifolds, or do you have the old ones ground?

2. If you put on headers will they match up to the stock exhaust? I don't have another grand to throw at it to get an exhaust to match up with the headers. I would rather put new stock manifolds on if that is the case.

3. I am pretty hands on, is this something that can be done in a garage without the need of special tooling? I read a few things about lifting the engine to get the manifold out???


Any information/advice would be much appreciated.

Thanks

 

Anybody?

 

search a bit: it's been discuss multiple time and you'll find all the answer you're looking for pretty quick.

 

the way I confirmed my leak was driving on a frontage road there was a sound barrier wall to my right. I opened my passenger window and hit the gas. it became very obvious the tick was an exhaust leak. turned out to be the right manifold warped. 650.00 bucks at the stealership. I normally do my own work but that job was more than I wanted to tackle after hearing what a pita it is.

 

Put the truck on jack stands remove the front tires then the shroud in the wheel wells. Unbolt the 2 upper rad supports. Remove the intake box completely off the truck and cover your throttle body. Remove the bolt that holds the trans dipstick on the drivers side. Next get a bottle jack and some 2 by 4. Now use 2 short pieces again the oil pan rearward edge and Jack the engine up just a touch. Unbolt bolt exhaust pipes and then the motor mounts. ( yes its a pain but it will save you a ton of time.) Now unbolt the headers you will most likely have a broken stud or studs. To remove broken studs use a spring loaded centre punch to make a mark in the middle of the stud and a very small bit with a reversible right angle air drill to get a pilot hole. Then swap to a 1/4 " left handed drill bit to extract them with the drill in reverse. Optional but not necessary is to remove your starter for ease of drivers side manifold removal I dropped mine to make it easier. Thus far this truck was the biggest pain in the butterflies for header removal that I have done but once you use these tricks it's easier. FYI the headers will most likely be warped you can use a straight edge to check them. Also if you opt for aftermarket headers check them prior to install and if needed double up the manifold gaskets for slight warpage to prevent leaks.