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Major Sludge Found Under Valve Cover

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Old 03-19-2018, 10:21 AM
  #251  
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Originally Posted by Ecobuilder
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I changed the PID # to 1633 and quickly tried it this morning, but still received no reading. Would I be missing some parameter in the formula, or could it still be a possible fault with the MAF, even though it's returning cfm measurements?
?? Curious. ?? Possibly something to do with FMEM ? If there is truly no reading coming from the MAF, there is documentation indicating the PCM will establish a default table entry for mass air flow (presumably based on engine displacement and RPM). If that is the case - my documentation indicates a flag should be set in either PID # 1106 or 1107. ///believed to be bit 1 in 1106. ie: '00000010', or decimal two'///. I did use "Auto" in the header on mine instead of blank, although I do not 'think' that would make a difference. Mode/ PID 221633.

Again, although I am confident of my documentation sources, I am cautious about being too definite about OBDII stuff because of (proven to me) differences between similar models, EVEN between same models manufactured at different plants - plus not having all the information about what PCM programmers did or did not do.
Old 03-20-2018, 02:50 AM
  #252  
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Default No more exhaust leak

I made some progress today. Found a misaligned and burnt gasket on the rear exhaust port. Replaced with a new, properly aligned one, and it now runs beautifully quiet.

Idled the engine for 15 minutes after clearing the codes and returned no pending codes. Watched the fuel trims while sitting in the cab and they appeared much more normal after awhile.

Last readings I had before turning it off were:

LTFT1: 14.8
LTFT2: 3.1
STFT1: -2.3
STFT2: -0.8

Close to the 15 minute mark - VCT2ERRT: -69.0 VCT1ERRT: 129.8 CMPFM: stayed on solid at 1.0 Vacuum: 21 in/Hg

Have to reinstall wheel well liner before taking for a drive. I'll see what level everything will be at after the ECM readjusts following a somewhat long trip.
Old 03-20-2018, 10:48 AM
  #253  
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Good promising report. Fuel trims do not look real bad considering both seem to be in the same direction, and Both seem to be working toward lowering their respective LTFT.

Your Error Accumulator totals VCT2ERRT and VCT1ERRT, are curious, though not ridiculous after 15 minutes. A more definitive answer would be dependent on knowing exact running conditions during that 15 minute period. (Remember, those readings are - just 'never' reset running totals of all live readings of the OBDII CAMERR on respective banks {/10}. If the PCM _never_ called for any retard, which it would not at pure idle, the VCT Solenoids should never see any duty cycle pulses, and both CAMs should remain locked at absolute ZERO Retard. If that condition prevailed (PCM requested retard ZERO, VCT solenoid closed, CPS showing ZERO Retard), the total accumulation of error {under that scenario} should be ZERO).

If any load & acceleration activated Phasers, (even once), those readings REQUIRE some of the opposite condition to go back to zero. Otherwise they would remain. But they do not strike me as too bad. It would simply imply that the bank 1 Phaser did not retard the cam as effectively 'overall' as bank 2 did, AND bank 2 is not returning the phaser to ZERO after being retarded as effectively as bank 1 did.

That could be a result of a number of things from passageway restriction to differences in cam rotational drag or valve spring tension - etc. But I do not consider it serious as long as the PCM is able to compensate for it (in less than 5 Seconds), or a P00xx would occur.
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Old 03-20-2018, 01:11 PM
  #254  
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If you can get the engine running I would put Royal Purple oil in it. I have seen RP clean up engines as bad as that. Of course you will need to change the oil early because the filter will be toast after a short period of time. Clean the engine as best you can then drive it with the RP in it. You will be amazed how it will clean that engine up.
Old 03-22-2018, 05:02 PM
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Originally Posted by F150Torqued
Good promising report. Fuel trims do not look real bad considering both seem to be in the same direction, and Both seem to be working toward lowering their respective LTFT.

Your Error Accumulator totals VCT2ERRT and VCT1ERRT, are curious, though not ridiculous after 15 minutes. A more definitive answer would be dependent on knowing exact running conditions during that 15 minute period. (Remember, those readings are - just 'never' reset running totals of all live readings of the OBDII CAMERR on respective banks {/10}. If the PCM _never_ called for any retard, which it would not at pure idle, the VCT Solenoids should never see any duty cycle pulses, and both CAMs should remain locked at absolute ZERO Retard. If that condition prevailed (PCM requested retard ZERO, VCT solenoid closed, CPS showing ZERO Retard), the total accumulation of error {under that scenario} should be ZERO).

If any load & acceleration activated Phasers, (even once), those readings REQUIRE some of the opposite condition to go back to zero. Otherwise they would remain. But they do not strike me as too bad. It would simply imply that the bank 1 Phaser did not retard the cam as effectively 'overall' as bank 2 did, AND bank 2 is not returning the phaser to ZERO after being retarded as effectively as bank 1 did.

That could be a result of a number of things from passageway restriction to differences in cam rotational drag or valve spring tension - etc. But I do not consider it serious as long as the PCM is able to compensate for it (in less than 5 Seconds), or a P00xx would occur.
Took it for another drive yesterday. Went well for a bit, as usual, and then when going uphill, experienced some shudder on acceleration and then the dry sounding condition again. I think it may be time for a strong engine flush and OCI again. I believe it's still getting restricted oil flow after warm up, possibly by sludge debris.

As for the shudder, going to inspect/clean each coil and look up how to inspect/clean/test the injectors.

After the drive, I recorded these wacky readings: VCTERR2T: 5.2 VCTERR1T: 580.2, probably due to the low oil flow/pressure moment.

P0171 lean code is gone but the P0340-0349 codes still persist and the C1284. Going to just replace the oil pressure switch as it's a cheap part, although looks challenging.

Would the Seafoam motor treatment be as strong or stronger as an engine flush compared to the Motor Medic?



Originally Posted by Sneed
If you can get the engine running I would put Royal Purple oil in it. I have seen RP clean up engines as bad as that. Of course you will need to change the oil early because the filter will be toast after a short period of time. Clean the engine as best you can then drive it with the RP in it. You will be amazed how it will clean that engine up.
I have used that in the past, just not for this condition. Maybe after the third OCI.
Old 03-26-2018, 09:15 PM
  #256  
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Try BK EPR for the flush.
https://www.bgprod.com/catalog/engin...e-restoration/

you can usually find it on ebay by the quart.
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Old 05-17-2018, 12:20 PM
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Default Update - sludge is conquered!

Thought I'd post an update.

Engine is running amazing.

Just replaced the driver's side cat two nights ago with a Walker 53569. Soon as I tipped the old one up, chunks of material dropped out. Truck would do nothing when stepping on the pedal. O2 sensor for that side (post cat) was mirroring the pre cat sensor so I suspected it was plugged. Didn't take very long to swap.

Went to start it after I completed the install and it did a quick crank and stopped. Cranked again and it fired up. Thought it was odd. Took it for a test drive and you could notice the restored power. Then after a few minutes seen the CEL flashing. Checked codes and reported P0316 and P0302 - misfire after first 1000 rpms and misfire on cylinder 2. Hmmmm.

Pulled coils on cylinders 1 & 2 and cleaned electrodes and installed new boots/springs. Noticed broken tab on cylinder 1 harness connector broken so going to the local Pick n Pull to grab one and swap. Temporarily secured until then. Pulled plugs to inspect and what did I find - cylinder 2 plug ceramic insulator cracked!! This has been the source of shuddering I've had for quite awhile thinking it was the plugged cat. Like redfish stated - a lot of SP515 plugs are bad out of the box.

Bought and installed a new SP546 plug first thing this morning from closest stealership - $30 CAN - rip off. Runs like a champ. Power to spare. The nicest part - QUIET. No ticking - nothing. To replace the other 7, I'll order 8 SP546 plugs online along with an FL820S oil filter. Probably RockAuto.

I can finally say any remaining sludge that I didn't get too has been melted/minimized after three oil changes with MMO/Pennzoil Ultra/Rotella. Patience has paid off. Will do my final oil change at the end of the month which will be the start of normal 5K mile/8K km OCI.

Now have to see if the pesky P0340/P0344 codes disappear. They don't appear to affect driveability.


This humble carpenter offers many many thanks to all who offered their wisdom and great advice, whether directly or info gleaned from other posts. Couldn't have done it otherwise.

Last edited by Ecobuilder; 05-18-2018 at 11:26 AM.
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Old 05-17-2018, 01:24 PM
  #258  
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Thank you for the update. You are the man. I would’ve given up at the beginning LOL.
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Old 05-17-2018, 03:15 PM
  #259  
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What a battle ,you deserve a medal.
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