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Motorcraft Filters are less than $4 at a lot of places. Bang-for-the-buck does NOT get better. Stick with those, either they work or they have the right JuJu to keep Tritons alive.
So I've read. Unfortunately, they aren't anywhere near $4/filter here. Almost four times that. I will probably use it as the post-cleaning and ongoing filter.
Originally Posted by SCORGE
So, Ecobuilder, how much do you charge for a rebuild
If it was my day job, probably not cheap enough.
I'm hoping this is my last time. I love twisting wrenches now and then, but have family and other hobbies that require my time.
You got your covers cleaner than my varnished ones at 130k . Fine work . Walmart here sells the mc filters around $4 . I guess its different world up there . Watch that rear end we use a special sealant here on that cover ,can't afford a leak there . Plus we use an additive if limited slip or positraction .
You got your covers cleaner than my varnished ones at 130k . Fine work . Walmart here sells the mc filters around $4 . I guess its different world up there . Watch that rear end we use a special sealant here on that cover ,can't afford a leak there . Plus we use an additive if limited slip or positraction .
I used the sealent the first time i changed the diff fluid right after I bought the truck. When I changed it during a bearing replacement I used a gasket. The gasket seems to be working fine and I bought another one to use when I put the axle shafts in. I just wish Ford would send the trucks from the factory with a drain plug in the diff cover.
Diff gasket went on good. Gears and inside looked good. Filled with RP 75W140. Sanded and painted the cover. Will take a pic when light is good.
With heavy work schedule, progress has been slow, but heads should be going on tonight. I'm so ready to get it back together.
One interesting thing I read, apparently the passenger side VCT housing was redesigned in 2007 due to oil starvation issues. Makes you wonder with all the issues still experienced with '07 & '08's that owners need to be extra vigilant with maintenance in spite of this.
Thinking of sanding & painting the valve covers as well to give it a clean look.
I have noticed a lot of really bad sludge in cold climate engines of late . Is it a case of poor maintenance because it's too cold to do . Or is it crankcase heaters causing that .
Is it because a thinner oil in winter should be used or a good synthetic ? Is it the wax in some oils .
Seems high up Canada sees this , makes you wonder about alaskan f150's .
I never had to run crankcase heaters when I lived in ohio so I have no experience . Some of this oil looks like chocolate cake frosting .
I hate to see this happen to engines . Must be a preventive .
I have noticed a lot of really bad sludge in cold climate engines of late . Is it a case of poor maintenance because it's too cold to do . Or is it crankcase heaters causing that .
Is it because a thinner oil in winter should be used or a good synthetic ? Is it the wax in some oils .
Seems high up Canada sees this , makes you wonder about alaskan f150's .
I never had to run crankcase heaters when I lived in ohio so I have no experience . Some of this oil looks like chocolate cake frosting .
I hate to see this happen to engines . Must be a preventive .
I would say not adhering to a strict maintenance schedule; especially with this motor.
My brother has a 2004 Cavalier with over 200K miles and it runs like it just came off the lot. Starts immediately in -30 without plugging in the block heater.
05-15-2017, 02:48 PM
