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Since you have it and are probably going to buy a new or reman engine I'd clean it as best I could, add a bunch of Marvel then full synthetic oil and run it a bit, shut it off and let the Marvel try and dissolve the sludge then drain and repeat for a few times. Got nothing to loose.
I've never seen an engine like that but I'm no mechanic.
Marvel Mystery Oil's reason for existing was loosening up and dissolving carbon and varnish deposits. Funny thing is, 90 years later and it still works. I'm a believer.
pretty sure K&N has something much more specialized for their air filter oil... something pretty sticky. They definitely don't smell the same.
Yes the MMO does work. Prefer using it over the carb clean if possible.
I couldn't confirm or deny if it actually is what K&N uses, just what the counterman told me when purchasing.
Originally Posted by 4.6owner
I would not use MMO for the filter. If you are having trouble finding the k&n service kit check a motorcycle shop. They often carry them as well.
I don't have and am not planning on using a K&N filter so will not be using as filter oil. Just quoting what the counterman said to me regarding MMO.
Originally Posted by diver64
Since you have it and are probably going to buy a new or reman engine I'd clean it as best I could, add a bunch of Marvel then full synthetic oil and run it a bit, shut it off and let the Marvel try and dissolve the sludge then drain and repeat for a few times. Got nothing to loose.
I've never seen an engine like that but I'm no mechanic.
Yes the sludge was as bad as could get, but I don't plan on swapping the engine. I have every surface and orifice reachable pristine and plan on the few remaining galleys/galleries that I didn't get to, without disassembling the crankcase, getting cleaned slowly with some short OCI's as recommended and the use of Rotella/PYB & MMO and possibly Kreen.
While parts were soaking/drying, installed a new fuel filter. You should have seen the fuel on the gas tank side of the filter - filthy. Want to open up the existing filter to see the internal state.
Also replaced a hail damaged high mount brake light with an all LED one. Required dropping the rear section of the headliner to unplug the original bulb harness.
Replaced the diff fluid with Royal Purple synthetic and a new Fel-Pro gasket with a little RTV. Transfer case and front diff next after engine is back together and running.
Excellent. You covers look like mine did when i took them off after 150k.
i didnt mention it but make sure you change oil filters each dose of MMO. I would buy 1/2 dozen cheap ones from Rock Auto since your not leaving them on very long and they should catch a bunch of crud.
Excellent. You covers look like mine did when i took them off after 150k.
i didnt mention it but make sure you change oil filters each dose of MMO. I would buy 1/2 dozen cheap ones from Rock Auto since your not leaving them on very long and they should catch a bunch of crud.
That's the exact strategy I will employ. I get a pretty good deal on the Wix/NapaPlatinum filters and plan on replacing them after every change. Don't want to chance leaving any trace of sludge or debris after all this work.
Motorcraft Filters are less than $4 at a lot of places. Bang-for-the-buck does NOT get better. Stick with those, either they work or they have the right JuJu to keep Tritons alive.
Motorcraft Filters are less than $4 at a lot of places. Bang-for-the-buck does NOT get better. Stick with those, either they work or they have the right JuJu to keep Tritons alive.
I think it's the factory installed juju in each filter you mentioned. Have used nothing but MC's on mine.
05-14-2017, 02:06 PM
