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Low/rough idle has beaten me

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Old 03-04-2015, 09:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Especial86
The front 02's are what keep your truck running optimal. They adjust the AFR where the rears just check for catalyst efficiency.

Here's some pics of the delete job..

The rear 02's are visible where the fronts are not.. Changing the front 02's can certainly help the truck run smoother, and tighten up their readings..

This is my new setup.. Attachment 371670

I've got my aftermarket wideband 02, and stock narrowband 02 up front, and the stock rear 02 I pushed as far back as the wire would reach.. I ran 2 magnaflow 94106 hi flow cats.

You can see in the pics that I cut the rear cat off right behind the rear 02.. The rear 02 on the 04 models only checks the front cat. The rear cat just sits there with no 02 to check it's work.. That's why it's very easy for us 04 guys to delete the rear cats..
By the way, thanks for taking the time to walk me through this and posting the pics. Theres nothing like seeing the real thing
Old 03-04-2015, 04:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Tommy J
So, initially it looks like you installed from the front cat back and then went to the new set up from the manifold and got rid of the bend(stock cat) In the new set up where is the upsteam 02? Im trying to visualize my stock set up and where it was. Did you have to tap it in new set up? Sorry for all of the questions. I'll have to look at pics again. Anyway, it looks great. Im wondering if my local Midas/Meineke will do that ha ha. Thats all I have in my area. I'll start with the new 02's and go from there
That pic only shows 1 upstream bung at that point.. We welded the other after this pic.. The bung is holding up the collector flange plate in the pic. Without it the plate would just slide down towards the cat..

Yeah we had to drill 3 holes in that pipe for 3 bungs and 3 02's... 1 is a wideband.. It's all custom from the headers back.. I did keep the stock Y pipe since it has mandrel bends..

Meineke might do it.. I've got a meineke around me that functions like a mom and pop.. It doesn't hurt to ask.. The Meineke near me does have press bending machines, but I noticed they tend to just cut and fit pre fabbed wrinkle bends..
Old 03-08-2015, 10:17 AM
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Man................ Changing out that passenger side o2 sensor was a PAIN. Im missing some skin on my left wrist from the ordeal. There's no easy way to do it. Breaking loose the sensor was'nt bad but unhooking and re attatching the wire harness was like doing surgery. Putting back the sensor in that weird angle was'nt fun either. I tackled almost the whole job with my left hand through and under the splash guard and through other components that my hand barely fit through and got sort of stuck a few times. It did idle better after I was done but will look at it and drive it today to see how much it helped. I litteraly had to take a nap yesterday after the multi hour ordeal plus I was laying on my cold wet driveway surrounded by the foot of snow from earlier. I"d rather do my spark plug job again. ha ha
Old 03-08-2015, 10:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Especial86
That pic only shows 1 upstream bung at that point.. We welded the other after this pic.. The bung is holding up the collector flange plate in the pic. Without it the plate would just slide down towards the cat..

Yeah we had to drill 3 holes in that pipe for 3 bungs and 3 02's... 1 is a wideband.. It's all custom from the headers back.. I did keep the stock Y pipe since it has mandrel bends..

Meineke might do it.. I've got a meineke around me that functions like a mom and pop.. It doesn't hurt to ask.. The Meineke near me does have press bending machines, but I noticed they tend to just cut and fit pre fabbed wrinkle bends..
I'll check out my local when I get a chance. I changed out the 02 sensors yesterday. FUN............ It does idle a little better and will take it for a drive today. I also saw some complete bolt on sets including 2 cats per side as now on amazon or somewhere. They pretty much look like what I have now except the rear 02 is in the cat instead of in front of. The kit starts from the ex manifold and stops before any pipes going back. I think they meet at the cross member pipe. If i end up going that route at least there will be no welding. I think they are like $350 ish per side but more and more Im thinking it might not be worth it. Id almost rather have someone else do it and be done with it.
Old 03-18-2015, 10:33 AM
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Originally Posted by jdinner
Mine were not glowing, even at night. I suspected the cats then dismissed them because my exhaust pipe had tons of steam (-22F) when cold and they didn't glow.
My other writeup:https://www.f150forum.com/f4/06-5-4-...-fires-291476/
Took my truck to Ford for a diagnosis and they found nothing.......... said that everything was in paramiters including my idle. They did a pcm reflash which did'nt help. Drove it home and sat in my driveway and watched the steering wheel shake rom my rough/low idle. My last resort is new cats and then Im done. Sorry I don't have a magical answer
Old 03-18-2015, 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Jr817
my symptoms are that it idles when warm at 500 rpm, doesn't really shake until i lightly tap on the gas or i go in reverse, could this be it? And if you don't mind can you post a pic of where you dropped the exhaust? Ive heard these trucks have 4 cats so i just don't wanna screw anything up
Took my truck to Ford for a diagnosis and they found nothing. Said everything was in paramiters including my idle. they did a pcm reflash with no results. Truck still idles low and rough.... go figure. I"ll try some new cats and then Im done. Sorry I could'nt give everyone a magical answer
Old 03-25-2015, 11:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Tommy J
Took my truck to Ford for a diagnosis and they found nothing. Said everything was in paramiters including my idle. they did a pcm reflash with no results. Truck still idles low and rough.... go figure. I"ll try some new cats and then Im done. Sorry I could'nt give everyone a magical answer
have you thought about going straight pipe?
Old 03-25-2015, 01:58 PM
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Just a thought, but before you throw a bunch of money at it, go buy some castrol 0w40 synthetic oil at walmart along with a ford FL820s filter. Drain the old oil and put the castrol in there. Your phasers are worn and the pin holding them in the locked position isn't doing its job which means your cams are being timed up to 40 degrees early at idle and causing the problems. heavier oil will hold the pins in the locked position. $35 or so. worth a try.

Originally Posted by Tommy J
Took my truck to Ford for a diagnosis and they found nothing. Said everything was in paramiters including my idle. they did a pcm reflash with no results. Truck still idles low and rough.... go figure. I"ll try some new cats and then Im done. Sorry I could'nt give everyone a magical answer
Old 03-25-2015, 02:02 PM
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Originally Posted by tcp2
Just a thought, but before you throw a bunch of money at it, go buy some castrol 0w40 synthetic oil at walmart along with a ford FL820s filter. Drain the old oil and put the castrol in there. Your phasers are worn and the pin holding them in the locked position isn't doing its job which means your cams are being timed up to 40 degrees early at idle and causing the problems. heavier oil will hold the pins in the locked position. $35 or so. worth a try.
Will give it a try, at my wits end and nothing elsse has worked
Old 03-25-2015, 10:05 PM
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If all you did was change the 02's then I'm not surprised you haven't had this "magic" moment yet..

The jump to a 5w-30 or 0w-40 is definitely a good suggestion either way.. I'm partial to the 5w-30 myself.. It can certainly help your idle if it is VCT solenoid or phaser related..

Is your rough idle showing up on the tacometer? "Jumping"?
Or do you think it could be a motor mount?
I'm kinda surprised ford didn't pick up on your rough idle, not to mention said it was within its "parameters".. The perimeters set by ford have a history of being very low with regards to idle speed..

See if the idle clears up with AC cycling, and with the headlights on.. Putting a greater load on the motor should raise the idle some, which will clear up a "rough" idle if it's a case of your idle being too low..

Last edited by Especial86; 03-25-2015 at 10:07 PM.


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