knock sensor issue
04-14-2017, 10:49 AM
#1
knock sensor issue
Hi,
I have a 2004 F150 5.4 3v 120,000 miles
I just replaced timing chains, guides, tensioners, phasers, oil pump, etc all Ford parts. After finishing up the truck had a rough idle, dies, no power, and clatters at 1500 rpm, I took the valve and timing cover off and double checked everything and timing is dead on, before giving up last night I noticed that one of the knock sensors plugs had the wires ripped out (apparently when putting the intake back on).
So my question is can not having one knock sensor hooked up really cause no power, engine clattering, rough idle after warm, and stalling?
Thanks for any help
I have a 2004 F150 5.4 3v 120,000 miles
I just replaced timing chains, guides, tensioners, phasers, oil pump, etc all Ford parts. After finishing up the truck had a rough idle, dies, no power, and clatters at 1500 rpm, I took the valve and timing cover off and double checked everything and timing is dead on, before giving up last night I noticed that one of the knock sensors plugs had the wires ripped out (apparently when putting the intake back on).
So my question is can not having one knock sensor hooked up really cause no power, engine clattering, rough idle after warm, and stalling?
Thanks for any help
Last edited by 04stroker6.0; 04-14-2017 at 10:51 AM.
04-14-2017, 11:52 AM
#2
Mark
iTrader: (1)
Good question.. repair it and see.
04-14-2017, 12:48 PM
#3
That is the plan! I wont be able to pull it apart for a few days, so i figured id ask in hopes someone knew so I could stop worrying if there is still another issue or not.
04-15-2017, 12:21 PM
#4
Knock sensor didn't change anything, I have torn everything back apart and together twice now and everything looks right.
any ideas of what could cause it, before taking it apart to do the timing and phasers it only had the phaser clatter at idle and was low on power but drivable.
now after warming up it idles really rough, when in park rev up to 1500 rpm it clatters and almost knocks (sounds horrible), dies when in gear, has pretty much no power.
any ideas of what could cause it, before taking it apart to do the timing and phasers it only had the phaser clatter at idle and was low on power but drivable.
now after warming up it idles really rough, when in park rev up to 1500 rpm it clatters and almost knocks (sounds horrible), dies when in gear, has pretty much no power.
04-15-2017, 06:30 PM
#5
05 5.4l 3v s.crew lariat
Get some codes
If your timing off it could be a misunderstanding twice . Another words you could have made the same mistake .
I hate to say it but it happens, you need another to really look it over and question it . We try to self check but sometimes it fails us . Of course you need someone who knows an engine and willing to read the procedure .
Codes can help since its running .
the procedure can be confusing some people have put the chain on wrong instead of the two colored links stradding the phasor l or r they straddled the 6 o'clock crank dot . Some don't realise the passenger side is the right, driver is the left .Some get confused by the crank keyway instead of using the crank dot at 6 oclock .
It can be as simple as the no1 cyl on ford is the passenger side towards radiator . Gm is opposite .
When you finished timing the phasor on driver side should have had L up on phasor, passenger should have been R up . No 1 should have been at TDC with cams on number 1 and 5 facing as per book . If all is as it should be then rotate engine by hand two full turns of the crank clockwise to prove no valve to piston contact .
Good luck and let us know .
I hate to say it but it happens, you need another to really look it over and question it . We try to self check but sometimes it fails us . Of course you need someone who knows an engine and willing to read the procedure .
Codes can help since its running .
the procedure can be confusing some people have put the chain on wrong instead of the two colored links stradding the phasor l or r they straddled the 6 o'clock crank dot . Some don't realise the passenger side is the right, driver is the left .Some get confused by the crank keyway instead of using the crank dot at 6 oclock .
It can be as simple as the no1 cyl on ford is the passenger side towards radiator . Gm is opposite .
When you finished timing the phasor on driver side should have had L up on phasor, passenger should have been R up . No 1 should have been at TDC with cams on number 1 and 5 facing as per book . If all is as it should be then rotate engine by hand two full turns of the crank clockwise to prove no valve to piston contact .
Good luck and let us know .
04-15-2017, 06:36 PM
#6
05 5.4l 3v s.crew lariat
Not knowing all you did and how
Check your oil pressure not using dash guage . Did you lift cams, maybe rollers not in place . Did you replace lash adjusters and then prime them real good ?
Clean out oil pan and pickup tube /screen if guides were broke . Vcts replaced ??
Clean out oil pan and pickup tube /screen if guides were broke . Vcts replaced ??
04-16-2017, 12:16 PM
#7
If your timing off it could be a misunderstanding twice . Another words you could have made the same mistake .
I hate to say it but it happens, you need another to really look it over and question it . We try to self check but sometimes it fails us . Of course you need someone who knows an engine and willing to read the procedure .
Codes can help since its running .
the procedure can be confusing some people have put the chain on wrong instead of the two colored links stradding the phasor l or r they straddled the 6 o'clock crank dot . Some don't realise the passenger side is the right, driver is the left .Some get confused by the crank keyway instead of using the crank dot at 6 oclock .
It can be as simple as the no1 cyl on ford is the passenger side towards radiator . Gm is opposite .
When you finished timing the phasor on driver side should have had L up on phasor, passenger should have been R up . No 1 should have been at TDC with cams on number 1 and 5 facing as per book . If all is as it should be then rotate engine by hand two full turns of the crank clockwise to prove no valve to piston contact .
Good luck and let us know .
I hate to say it but it happens, you need another to really look it over and question it . We try to self check but sometimes it fails us . Of course you need someone who knows an engine and willing to read the procedure .
Codes can help since its running .
the procedure can be confusing some people have put the chain on wrong instead of the two colored links stradding the phasor l or r they straddled the 6 o'clock crank dot . Some don't realise the passenger side is the right, driver is the left .Some get confused by the crank keyway instead of using the crank dot at 6 oclock .
It can be as simple as the no1 cyl on ford is the passenger side towards radiator . Gm is opposite .
When you finished timing the phasor on driver side should have had L up on phasor, passenger should have been R up . No 1 should have been at TDC with cams on number 1 and 5 facing as per book . If all is as it should be then rotate engine by hand two full turns of the crank clockwise to prove no valve to piston contact .
Good luck and let us know .
I have found that number 5 cylinder doesn't seem to be firing, can unplug the coil and injector with no change to how its running. I have swapped the coil pack and injector and still stays on cylinder 5, also verified with a test light that the injector/coil pack connectors are getting grounded by the computer. I have pulled the plug and it looks fine also cylinder seems to have compression
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04-18-2017, 01:05 AM
#8
05 5.4l 3v s.crew lariat
What you are describing sounds like a valve problem
Compression checks that the valves seat . It does not mean they open . You have two intakes and one exhaust valve . I lost one roller ,thrown to the side on one number 8 intake, it ran but sounded terrible . I did not let it run long like that so I didn't analyze it .
Your vcts are fairly new so they should be good .
Strange no codes . How are you determining number 5 isn't firing,just by disconnecting it and no change .
You had the intake off, so some of this sounds like a vacuum leak . That intake runner control can be real hard to deal with . You may have to do either a smoke test or a propane test .
If no5 dead it should be throwing codes ,same for injector .
I made my own smoke machine from youtube out of a paint can . Mechanics couldn't find it so I tried it 2-3 hits and smoke came from under battery on explorer -purge valve bad .
Why did you have intake off?That's unusual for a timing job .
At 120k yours similar to mine ,I pulled cams and had some bad rollers and lash adjusters so changed them all . The advice is at that point to change them while she's open ,they were $265. It gave me a chance to clean oil passages on journals and check cam wear . plus I didn't have to clean/ test 24 lash adjusters .
Put a new plug/boot in no 5 after you clean hole out with carb cleaner to get carbon out of tip area . Guys have been fighting bad new plugs out of the box .
But I don't really see thru the fog here!
Your vcts are fairly new so they should be good .
Strange no codes . How are you determining number 5 isn't firing,just by disconnecting it and no change .
You had the intake off, so some of this sounds like a vacuum leak . That intake runner control can be real hard to deal with . You may have to do either a smoke test or a propane test .
If no5 dead it should be throwing codes ,same for injector .
I made my own smoke machine from youtube out of a paint can . Mechanics couldn't find it so I tried it 2-3 hits and smoke came from under battery on explorer -purge valve bad .
Why did you have intake off?That's unusual for a timing job .
At 120k yours similar to mine ,I pulled cams and had some bad rollers and lash adjusters so changed them all . The advice is at that point to change them while she's open ,they were $265. It gave me a chance to clean oil passages on journals and check cam wear . plus I didn't have to clean/ test 24 lash adjusters .
Put a new plug/boot in no 5 after you clean hole out with carb cleaner to get carbon out of tip area . Guys have been fighting bad new plugs out of the box .
But I don't really see thru the fog here!
04-18-2017, 03:14 PM
#9
correct i can disconnect the coil and injector with no change, I used a test light to see if computer was sending the signal to them which it is so that's probably why no code for that. It will give a code when they are unplugged though.
I may have to try the smoke machine, if i crate a vacuum leak the motor idles up higher and sounds runs better, plug hose back in and idle drops down and miss gets worse.
It had a bad cylinder head temp sensor so I pulled the intake to replace it.
Coils are only two months old and I have swapped it with another know good coil, still the same.
I was able to do an oil pressure test yesterday and at cold idle it showed 60 psi as the motor warmed up the oil pressure dropped and ran worse as it dropped. Normal operating temp at idle it had 15-18 psi in gear it would jump from 5 to 20 as the motor loped, at 2000 rpm it was between 40 and 45 psi. I pulled the pan and the pick up screen was pretty clogged, I'm picking up a new pick up after work and will get it installed tonight to see if that helps any and see if the pressure changes much with a clean screen.
Thank you for spending your time trying to help I really appreciate it
I may have to try the smoke machine, if i crate a vacuum leak the motor idles up higher and sounds runs better, plug hose back in and idle drops down and miss gets worse.
It had a bad cylinder head temp sensor so I pulled the intake to replace it.
Coils are only two months old and I have swapped it with another know good coil, still the same.
I was able to do an oil pressure test yesterday and at cold idle it showed 60 psi as the motor warmed up the oil pressure dropped and ran worse as it dropped. Normal operating temp at idle it had 15-18 psi in gear it would jump from 5 to 20 as the motor loped, at 2000 rpm it was between 40 and 45 psi. I pulled the pan and the pick up screen was pretty clogged, I'm picking up a new pick up after work and will get it installed tonight to see if that helps any and see if the pressure changes much with a clean screen.
Thank you for spending your time trying to help I really appreciate it
04-18-2017, 07:47 PM
#10
Got the new oil pick up tube on and it runs better but is not fixed. when cold the motor runs great no noise no miss at all. When warm it still clatters at 1500-2000 rpm pretty loudly, idles good for 30 seconds then drops low missing for half a second then runs good for 30 seconds. It doesn't die anymore but gets close, also when pulling a coil plug all cylinders affect the motor now.
because of the weather i was not able to check the oil pressure again to see what its doing now
because of the weather i was not able to check the oil pressure again to see what its doing now
Last edited by 04stroker6.0; 04-19-2017 at 09:11 AM.