I just picked up some brand new Titanium Ceramic JBA shorty headers for cheap and i was wondering about the bolts, i have seen people use the stage 8 locking bolts and some people use what JBA sends them.

What do you guys recommend?


Some not so good reviews on stage 8 bolts.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/st...view/make/ford

 

are you talking about the bolts going to the head or the donut. I just used the studs and some metal gaskets, don't use the fiber gasket . Just a pointer if you are going to do this. I wouldn't recommend use grade 8 bolts for the donut. mine were rusted so bad that what i had to use and it leaks horribly. so now i have to find how to stop the leak. Anyways, i would recommend using studs, just use anti-seize and since those are fabricated and not cast, they shouldn't warp (the headers), ( I'm also assuming you got out all the old studs.) anyhow, thats my experience, sorry i couldn't be of more help

 

I just put these headers on myself.. Use stainless steel studs and the supplied bolts from JBA wherever studs won't fit.. I had 3 locations where studs wouldn't fit due to the bends in the primary tubes.. Nickle anti seize those studs and bolts and tourqe to spec (19 ft lbs)
You will need to use a box wrench to get some of the bolts and nuts tight, the rest you can use a socket.. Check the bolts 3 times before you do your final torque.

Use the supplied gaskets from jba. I sprayed mine down in copper spray a gasket before installing.. No leaks yet..
http://m.ebay.com/itm/Ford-4-6-5-4-L...-/130668815975

The dounut to flange bolts they supply suck. Just make your own from the hardware store with stainless serrated nuts, lock washers and washers..

 

Do those bolt right up to the stock exhaust flange ?

 

Yup, like a glove.. If your thinking about jumping ship on the factory cast log manifold then I would certainly go with the JBA stainless shortys.. The build quality on these headers looks like it will definitely resist warping and breaking studs like those rust magnet cast iron stockers.. Plus they flow better too..

Just buy the stainless hardware I linked a few posts back and you will be done worrying about leaks.. I'd also use their supplied gasket too. I bought the all metal victor reinze and got the LKQ gaskets shipped with my reman, and the JBA gasket looked like it will seal up the best.. If you spray the gaskets down with PERMATEX copper spray a gasket they will probably live a longer life, and resist burning out..

 

Thanks Buddy...

 

Great, Thanks guys.

I will order those stainless studs and bolts right now.

I have the fender wells and everything cut out of the truck right now so it should be an easier install.

 

Ok just curious but why did you cut ur fender wells out????😳

 

Yeah should be no need to "cut"..
I had my fender well liner out and from what I remember it will probably not help a header install at all..

One good tip for the supplied bolts: You need to have the 2 bolts in place while you fit the pass side header to the head. They won't fit if you try to install them with the header already in place. They will be too long.. Tape them into their slots and use them to start the initial bolt up of the header.. They are the 2 bolts you will need on cylinder 3..

 

I ordered the stainless steel studs and they should be in this week, the front is chopped because we are doing the long travel suspension on it.