THIS IS A WORK IN PROGRESS

LAST EDIT: 11-17-15 10:59PM
REASON: Adding images and editing text for clarity.

I have been wanting to have power locks for a while, and finally got around to doing them today. I have searched the forums for specifics but never found any, so here is my attempt to ad to the forum and maybe help someone else getting ready to tackle this job.

Although this install is specific to my 2004 STX F150, the specifics of my install should be the same for all similar years (2004-2008). The general information about power locks is not F150 specific and is just general information that I had to learn to make a decision as to what to install in my truck.

I settled for a "CENTRAL LOCKING SYSTEM". This means that unlocking either door or locking either door will also unlock the opposite door. Central locking systems typically have five wires on each actuator.

Many aftermarket power lock kits have two 2-wire actuator or one 5-wire and one 2-wire.

ACTUATOR TYPES
Power lock actuators are basically a high speed DC motor with gearing that responds to the switching DC voltage applied to the motor inputs. Apply positive and negative voltage to the wires and the motor rotates in one direction. Reverse the polarity of this DC voltage and the motor turns in the opposite direction.

Actuators come in many different sizes and shapes

Some have clutches, to prevent damage to the gears from being over driven when reaching the mechanical limit of the mechanism or the installation. Other may have an end that can swivel for easier/more install options.

How strong an actuator is is typically listed by manufacturers in the form of how many pounds the actuator can dead lift. In theory, an actuator rated with 16 lbs. lift force is twice as strong as one rated a 8 lbs. However, many companies may test and/ or rate theirs differently so these claims should be taken with a grain of salt. Example; "Brand A" tests and rates their actuator at the MAXIMUM power output as 15 lbs. (with 14.4 VDC applied just before the motor self destructs). "Brand B" tests and rates their actuator at the average sustainable power output as 7 lbs. (with 12.0 VDC applied with a 70% load). On paper, "Brand A" appears to be much better, but unless they are compared after both have had the same test and test criteria, there is a very high possibility that "Brand B" may be as good if not actually better.

Some have 2-wires and others 5-wires. I will focus on these mostly in this article.

2-WIRE
These are the most common. Simple motors with 2 wires that operate as described above.

5-WIRE
These are the same as the 2-wire actuator, with an additional 3 wires for an internal switch. These internal switch is what allows these actuators to control other actuators or work independently of any other switches.


AVAILABLE LOCKING SYSTEMS
Locking kits are available in a wide variety of configurations. For the sake of simplicity and time, I will focus on what I believe to be the most common based on my unprofessional research for my own project. I also am focusing only on two door systems and their function. I'm certain there may be others types with additional features (via additional parts or kits to enhance or add features) as well as hybrids of the ones I have below.

BASIC KITS
These kits have two 2-wire actuators will require a switch(s) installed in the vehicle to manually lock/unlock both doors. Locking/unlocking either door via key, inside handle or lock button will not lock/lock the opposite door. If you have a remote start or some other wireless entry system, then you can remotely unlock and lock the doors thru the key fob.

• Can only lock/unlock both doors from outside the vehicle via a key-less entry system (if installed)
• Requires internal door switch(s) to lock/unlock doors from inside the vehicle
• Locking/unlocking either door via the key, inside door handle or lock button does not lock/lock the other door

MASTER/SLAVE SYSTEMS KITS
These kits have one 5-wire actuator and one 2-wire actuator. Typically the 5-wire actuator is installed in the passenger door and the 2-wire is installed in the drivers side. The point of this is that if you unlock the passenger side to put in cargo, the drivers side will be unlocked when you get around to the other side. Being able to open the drivers door and not the passengers door can also be seen as a safety, you may not want the passenger door open at night when getting in your vehicle. These kits also require a switch installed in the vehicle to manually lock/unlock the doors from the inside (from the side of the vehicle with the 2-wire actuator). Obviously you can install either actuator (2-wire or 5-wire) in either door, just keep in mind the operation will be the opposite from what is described within this section. The description below follows the "typical" install as mentioned above.

Unlocking the passenger door (with the 5-wire actuator) via the key or inside handle will also unlock the drivers side. Locking the passenger door (with the 5-wire actuator) via the key or lock button will also lock the drivers side.

Locking/unlocking the drivers door (2-wire actuator) via the key, inside handle or lock button does not lock/unlock the passengers door.

If you have a remote start or some other wireless entry system, then you can remotely unlock and lock the doors thru the key fob.

• Can lock/unlock both doors via a key-less entry system (if installed)
• Can lock/unlock both doors via locking/unlocking with key,inside handle or lock button only from the door with the 5-wire actuator
• Requires internal door switch to lock/unlock doors from inside the vehicle on side with 2-wire actuator
• Locking/unlocking door with 2-wire actuator via the key, inside handle or lock button does not unlock the other door

CENTRAL LOCKING KITS
Central locking kits have two 5-wire actuators. Locking/unlocking either door via the key, inside handle or lock button will also lock/unlock the other door. These are also compatible with key-less entry systems. These kits are also marketed as not needing a lock/unlock switch in the vehicle.

• Can lock/unlock both doors via a key-less entry system (if installed)
• Can lock/unlock both doors via locking/unlocking with key,inside handle or lock button from either door
• Does not require internal door switch(s) to lock/unlock doors from inside the vehicle

 

INSTALLING MY POWER LOCKS
I settled for a "CENTRAL LOCKING SYSTEM". I couldn't figure a reason to install the basic a system that would only lock/unlock both doors via remote key-less entry or when in the car. I also wanted the ability to open lock/unlock both doors from EITHER door via keys, door handle or lock button.

THE KIT I ORDERED
https://www.a1electric.com/Merchant2...duct_Code=W01F

I settled on this after looking at lots of reviews for this and every other kit in every price range I could find. It wasn't the cheapest, (about $73 after shipping) but it wasn't the most expensive. If your interested you can read the specs on the website and decide for yourself if this is worth while for you.

The reasons I selected it:

• Median price
• Actuators have clutches to improve performance and life
• MES brand reviewed well (hopefully decent quality)
• Heavy duty actuators and wiring

PROS

• Plenty of wire for F150
• Almost a Plug-and-Play install
• Actuators appear high quaility and have some weight to them

CONS

• Relay block had a bad terminal that had to be removed and fixed before I could use it
• Terminals insulators for harness ends were flimsy, the terminals would not stay in the plastic connectors. Installing the connector to the actuator would push out the terminal. I had to push each one back in with needle nose pliers. (They were tight after this)
• Actuator mounting hardware was flimsy/ inadequate for this install

INSTALLATION
NOTE: This is very specific to my truck. My truck does not have power windows or mirrors. I was surprised at how easy it was to access and run the wires thru the doors.
NOTE: I will not be covering bolt by bolt as there are probably many posts or video's on YouTube that can cover this. I will try to add images if it clears up the process.
NOTE: This install assumes you have already added or located a constant 12 DC supply in the cabin capable of 15-20 amps of current.

NOTE: I OR THE F150 FORUM WILL NOT BE RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY DAMAGES TO YOU OR YOUR TRUCK FROM ATTEMPTING THIS INSTALL DUE TO ACCIDENTAL ERRORS OR OMISSIONS IN THE FOLLOWING INSTRUCTIONS. EVERY KIT AND EVERY INSTALLER COME WITH DIFFERENT PARTS AND SKILL SETS. IT IS YOUR DUTY TO READ AND KNOW IF YOU ARE QUALIFIED TO DO THIS, AS WELL AS POSSES THE WORKING KNOWLEDGE TO MAKE CHANGES TO THESE INSTRUCTIONS TO SUIT YOUR NEEDS, DOOR LOCK KIT OR TRUCK. IF YOU DO NOT FEEL YOU CAN SAFELY DO THIS TASK..DON'T.

HARNESS ROUTING

1. REMOVE THE NEGATIVE BATTERY TERMINAL
2. Access the area under the steering column.
   • Remove two screws (fig. 2)
   • Remove the lower panel (fig. 3), it has two clips at the top. Pull straight out.
   • Remove 4 screws (fig. 6)
   • Remove under panel (fig. 7)
   • Pull off the dash side panel (fig. 1) for locating ground bolt (fig. ground)
   
3. Remove both door panels.
   
   
   
4. Pop out rubber boot between door and cab from the door side and partially push it into the door to get to the end that was in the cab. NOTE: There should be a few wires in the boot, be sure to not pull or tug on these during this process.
5. With your left hand, follow the wires into the cab. With your right hand inside the cab locate your left hand to determine the angle and location of the wires. There should be a fairly clear access route.
6. Fish the shorter of the two wires harness leads from the inside of the cab out the opening. Once enough wire is pulled out, fish it thru the rubber boot into the door cavity.
   NOTE: The end of the rubber boot attached to the door has a couple of openings for wire to pass thru so there is no need to cut it. Run enough wire to reach approx 3/4 of the way to the back of the door. (You will adjust this later.)
   
7. Fish the longer wire harness under the center dash/console.
   
   NOTE: You can simplify fishing the cable under the center console by removing the plastic panel right above the carpet to make fishing the wire easy. It is held by 3 plastic press clips.
   CAUTION: Forcing these clips out can damage the heater duct they are snapped into!
   
   • Fully open the glove box. Open it until the rubber bumper on the right stops it. Flex the glove box on the right side to allow the rubber bumper to clear the opening and fully open. This will give you access to fish the cable thru easily as well as secure it.
   • Remove the passenger rubber boot using steps 4-6 above.
   • Fish the longer of the two wires harness leads from the inside of the cab out the opening and thru the rubber boot into the door cavity. Run enough wire to reach approx 3/4 of the way to the back of the door. (You will adjust this later.)
8. Loosely wire tie the cable in place. Do not tighten them as you may need to adjust the cable when making electrical connections.
   
   

ACTUATOR MOUNTING LOCATION
NOTE: AS mentioned in the "CONS" section, the mounting hardware on sub-par. It came with what appeared to be a brass-like mounting strap that bent very easy. I wanted to mount this directly to the door for a cleaner install and improved stability.

After a few hours of pondering the location and actuator orientation it became clear that I needed a mounting location that

• Didn't interfere with door panel mounting hooks
• Didn't interfere with the door handle cable
• Didn't interfere with window operation
• Is as close to parallel to the door lock button rod

The best solution required a trip to the hardware store for some spacers, new bolts, washers and Nylock nuts.

CAUTION: Be careful not to drop any tools, washers, bolt, spacers or door lock parts in the door. They are incredibly hard to get out!!! (First hand experience speaking here!!)

1. Remove only enough of the vapor/ sound barrier as needed
2. Measure 2" to the right from the door panel crease labeled "A". Mark this spot.
3. Make a second mark also 2" to the right from the crease labeled "A" but below the first. Connect the two marks. NOTE: this line will be close to the rolled edge of the large door opening.
4. From the bottom of the small oval opening labeled "B", measure down 1-1/2" along the line made in step 1 & 2. Mark this spot. This will be the first hole for the actuator.
5. Measure down from the spot identified in step 4 the exact dimension of the hole spacing of your actuator. Mark this spot. (My actuator spacing was 2-1/4".)
6. Use a a drill bit sized for a 6-32 bolt (or what ever size fits thru the opening for your actuators) and drill the two holes.
7. Clean up any sharp edges with a small file.
8. OPTIONAL: Spray some rust converter paint into the lid of the can and use a q-tip or brush to paint the holes to prevent rust. Let dry for a few minutes.
9. Repeat these steps for the other door.

 

MOUNTING ACTUATORS

NOTE: Do the below steps with the windows rolled up. This will give you more room to work, especially when tightening the actuators in location.

CAUTION: Be careful not to drop any tools, washers, bolt, spacers or door lock parts in the door. They are incredibly hard to get out!!! (First hand experience speaking hear!!)

1. Install the actuator rod on the end of the actuator. NOTE: the rod can be installed in two ways. Install the rod so that it is to the RIGHT of the door lock ****. (passenger door will be to the left of the door lock ****.)
2. Place a washer onto the 6-32 x 2 bolt.
3. Start the bolt thru the top hole in the door and slide on a spacer.
4. Continue installing the bolt thru the actuator with the motor facing towards the BACK of the door.
5. Install a washer.
6. Install a Nylock nut. Do not tighten at this time.
7. Install the second bolt in the same fashion.
8. Tighten the bolts to secure the actuator.
9. Repeat these steps for the passenger side making note of the actuator motor position and actuating rod as indicated above.

INSTALLING ACTUATOR RODS TO DOOR LOCK BUTTON RODS
This step will be critical for proper operation. The manual in my kit covered this fairly clearly. I will cover the basics of it here and the issues specific to my install, refer to the manual that came with your kit for the direction they recommend.

For the actuators to work properly you need to attach the actuator rods to the door lock rods at their respective center of travel. The adjustment comes in because the actuator travel is more than the travel of the truck lock rod.

1. Bend the actuator rod to be parallel with the door lock rod.
   
   QUICK WAY: Start with the both full down (locked) and mark the actuator rod at the point needed to be bent. Using a pair of pliers or long nose channel lock hold the rod securely and bend the rod.
   
   HARD WAY: (the way I did it) Start with the both full down (locked) and mark the actuator rod at the point needed to be bent. Note the angle the actuator rod is in relation to the trucks lock rod. Remove the actuator and then the actuator rod. Take the rod over to a vise making sure you are bending it in the correct direction and clamp it. Bend it approximately the same angle notes before removing it. I had to to this twice to get it right. The reason I did it this way was that I was able to get a sharper bend, and I was also able to pre-bend the rod for the other side at the same time. You can easily "tweak" this using the quick method above.
   
   NOTE: On the 2004 F150, the bend required was minimal. Be sure to hold the rod securely and bend only the rod above the point is is being held. You do not want any pressure on the plastic tip holding the rod to the actuator.
   
   DO NOT CUT THE RODS TO LENGTH YET.
   
2. Start with both the actuator and door lock **** fully DOWN. (LOCKED)
3. Mark the door lock rod just above the bend where it goes straight up.
4. Place a piece of tape large enough to cover the opening behind the door lock rod that can be used to mark the rod position with a sharpie. Align the bottom edge of the tape with the mark you made on the door lock rod. This is its FULL LOCK position.
5. Unlock the door and place a second park on the tape where the door lock rod mark now is. This is its FULL UNLOCK position. The tape will now show the FULL TRAVEL of the door switch.
6. With the actuator rod still in the full down (locked position) mark it with a sharpie at the tape line. This is it's FULL LOCK position.
7. Pull up the actuator rod fully (It will want to drop down if you let it go so keep holding it) and place a mark on the tape where the actuator rod mark now is. This is its FULL UNLOCK position. The tape will now show the FULL TRAVEL of the actuator.
8. Slide on the clamp assembly over both rods. The key to the next steps is to attach the two rods with the clamp while they are in there respective center of travel.
9. With the actuator rod fully closed (locked) tighten the clamp so it is centered on the rod at this point. My clamp had a single screw in the center point so it was easy to align it with the starting point on the tape.
10. Place the door lock rod in the center of it's travel and hold it there.
11. Pull up the actuator rod and clam to the center of it's travel while keeping the door lock rod in it's center of travel position.
12. Tighten the screws to secure the two rods.
13. Repeat this for the other side.

NOTE: Do not cut off excess actuator rod at this point. If adjustments are needed after electrical connections are made, having the rods long to pull and adjust will be beneficial.


ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS
Connecting the actuators to the harness wires that you ran in the door is pretty straight forward. The wires in the kit are color coded. You just match them up. The power connection and ground connection are also obvious. With the kit I received, I had to place the fuse and fuse holder to the harness, so there was a few extra steps. The ground wire also has a white connector that really served no purpose. I wound up cutting it off and crimping a ring terminal to connect it to my ground point.

1. Route the wire between the plastic vapor/moisture barrier and the door shell. Follow the wires that are already in the door.
2. Verify the wire pulled thru the door has sufficient wire to reach the actuator harness connector. If not, carefully pull more wire thru from the cabin.
3. Cut back several inches of the cable to expose the individual wires.
   NOTE: The MES kit actuator has the 5 wires in 3 different connectors that are of different length. Although not a requirement, it will make for a cleaner install if you also stagger the wires you are crimping so they line up with the connectors. Otherwise you will have a big "ball" of connectors and have to deal with.
   
4. Crimp a wire terminal to each of the 5 wires exposed in the door harness.
   NOTE: Not having the proper crimping tool, I crimped them with a pair of Cline Crimpers. I also soldered them to be sure they were solid.
   
5. Insert the wires into a plastic terminal. They go in one way and should "click" when fully seated. Mine did not work very well, as even after the terminal was fully seated, and I heard the "click" of the housing snapping on the terminal in place, several were easily pulled out.
6. Install the connectors you just made into the appropriate connector on the actuator. (Match the colors)
   NOTE: Be sure the terminals are fully seated! As stated in the previous step, many of the wires with terminals were easily pulled out by hand. They were also pushed out when pushing into the actuator terminals. USE NEEDLE NOSE PLIERS to push the terminal fully on. Mine held tight after this.
7. Crimp or solder the included fuse holder and pig tail to the systems red wire.
8. Attach the fused end of the wire to a positive 12 VDC source that is HOT at all times and capable of supplying 15-20 amps of current. The MES kit uses a 15A fuse.
9. I cut the MES 1/4" spade connector that was attached to the black ground wire and attached it to a small extension with a ring terminal that fit the ground bolt I used.
10. Attach the MES relay module to the pre-wired connector. It only fits in one direction.
11. Install the black connector with two wires into the relay module.
    NOTE: this kit was for two doors, but the harness is pre-wired for 4 doors. There was an additional connector with wires. (Future addition for tail gate actuator) Just tuck it out of the way.

 

TESTING AND TROUBLESHOOTING

1. Reinstall the battery negative terminal. You will probably hear the locks make their first sounds at this time.
   
   NOTE: If your locks act erratic, locking and unlocking disconnect the battery negative terminal and recheck the rod adjustments
   
   TIP: If readjusting the actuator rods and locking rods is required, remove the black (ground wire) from the actuators to prevent the system from responding to your adjustment and making it difficult to center the rods.
   
2. Verify operation.
   A. Use the key on door lock and verify that when you lock/ unlock one door the other door also locks/unlocks accordingly. Do this test from both doors.
   B. With the doors locked, open the door with the inside door handle. Both doors should unlock. Do this test from both doors.
   C. Press the lock button on the door down to lock it. The doors should both lock. Do this test from both doors.
   
   NOTE: If the above tests fail or does not function as indicated try unlocking or locking the door lock by moving the actuator rod fully. If this works, then you may need to re-adjust the rods. You may not be getting enough travel to actuate the internal switch. If using the actuator rod does not work, double check your actuator connections.
   
   TIP: If readjusting the actuator rods and locking rods is required, remove the black (ground wire) from the actuators to prevent the system from responding to your adjustment and making it difficult to center the rods.
   
   If the doors are out of sync (one locks when the other unlocks) you will need to check the wiring and reverse the two actuator motor wires on the incorrect actuator.
   
3. when fully completed with testing and adjusting and all function are correct, wrap the connectors from the actuator with electrical tape. The better you do this the mode water resistant they will be. Cover ALL connectors and wires.
4. Pull any excess wire back into the cab, make sure there is enough cable in the door to be able to follow the existing wires. Use wire ties to secure the power lock wires to the OEM harness attachment points. Repeat this step for the other door.
5. Use a Dremel tool or heavy duty cutters to trim the excess actuator rods. TIP:Mark the rod below the OEM rod guide with the doors fully unlocked (maximum upwards travel). Repeat this step for the other door.
6. Reinstall the door panels and give it another test. (You know you want to!)
7. In the cabin, take up all the slack in he cable so it doesn't hang down and wire tie the cable to the large wire harness under dash (just above the OBDII port).
8. In my install, the relay and fuse reside to in the far right of the under dash panel. (To the left of the center console/AC/Radio) Fuse access is via panel removal or under the dash.
9. With the glove box fully open, pull the cable tight and secure it with a tire tie to the orange antenna at the bottom of the glove box. Any additional slack can be placed in this cavity behind the glove box and secured with wire ties to any existing harness.
   NOTE: In all actuality, this kit maybe had about 1 foot of extra cable, almost all of it on the passenger side. Not worth cutting off.
10. Recheck operation
11. Reinstall all removed panels.

DONE!!



ISSUES
I did have one issue with the Central Locking System and the claim that no switches are required. This issue is 2004 F150 specific, maybe other years as well. When in the vehicle with the doors unlocked, I can lock the passenger (and drivers door obviously) door by simply pushing down the lock button on the door. HOWEVER....if I want to unlock the passenger door, you simply can not see or reach the lock button as it is recessed in the door! The only way to unlock the passenger door is to use the inside handle to open the drivers door. When the lock button pops up (normal operation) the actuator is moved and it unlocks the passenger side. I will need to either install longer lock buttons or add a central locking button for convenience.

IMPRESSIONS & MISC
Aside from what was a grueling full days work - stating around 8 am and working thru until dark (This time of year, the sun is setting around 5:30), this was fairly easy from a technical standpoint. The issues were in the planning for a solid mounting that worked in the location that didn't interfere with the door panels, internal cable for the door handle as well as was as close to a direct actuation of the door locking **** rod.

The terminals and the plugs used for connecting to the actuator leave something to be desired. I was expecting more. They are usable, but the Mickey Mouse loose connections add bulk and don't hold securely. The actual terminal to terminal connections are fine. If this wasn't a new kit, I would have cut off all the connectors, and used my own smaller ones. I didn't because I was not sure how this would affect the warranty.

The main relay plug also came defective and had to be fixed. The terminal was all bend inside the connector, making it impossible to install the relay. I had to extract it and reform it. I also had to use needle nose pliers to push it onto the relay after I installed the relay to the relay plug. Of course it had to be the center terminal, so access and installing was a bit of a PIA.

The main cable is very flexible and of decent quality. I'm not sure of the gauge, but it not as large as I thought it would be. Regardless it works and is of nice quality.

The actuators are very nice, and pretty hefty compared to the other few I have. They work fairly quietly in the door but you can defiantly hear them. This is a plus for me. The majority of this kit cost is for the actuator.