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Increase towing capacity

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Old 04-02-2017, 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by blupupher
That starts getting into Gross Combination Weight Rating (GCWR) (trailer weight + cargo + passengers), but yes, you do need to factor payload weight and then the trailer weight to make sure you are not above GCWR (not sure what it is on these).
the trailer itself is 2600# and my equipment is about 2000#. I usually do not have anything in the bed and is usually just me in the truck. I should be under the GCWR.
Old 04-02-2017, 02:41 PM
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You don't need a WDH for that. That won't help with the truck struggling to pull it either
Old 04-02-2017, 02:41 PM
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Originally Posted by FrozenTundraGuy
I agree with all of the others, you have the wrong truck for what you want it to do.
Thats what I was afraid of. I am definitely going to be A LOT more picky on my next truck.
Old 04-02-2017, 10:45 PM
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If you decide to get a new truck, it's a reasonable expense, I paid about $500 in 2006 for all of the equipment, but Ford offered a "Tow & Go" discount, which brought it down to less than $200. A lot of equipment for the $$ that you can't match by putting it on later.
Old 04-02-2017, 11:27 PM
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Originally Posted by FrozenTundraGuy
I paid about $500 in 2006 for all of the equipment
What all equipment did you get for the $500?
Old 04-03-2017, 03:23 PM
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A re-gear would help, a tune might help. If at the end of the day the issue is you are running out of steam, and still withing your safe limits, then you might need more power!

I think an engine swap would be expensive/complex for the results. You could probably add forced induction for less which would really help the low end TQ.
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Old 04-03-2017, 10:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Crockett0224
What all equipment did you get for the $500?
Class III/IV Trailer Hitch, Trailer wiring for 7 & 4 Pin connectors, Auxillary braking wiring connector, upgraded shocks/springs; Heavy Duty Cooling system, and aux trans cooler. Just had to add my brake controller to the dash, and added my WD hitch ball/spring bars and I was ready to tow. also bought the accy tow mirrors which slip over the factory mirror-works nice and no vibration issues.
Old 04-03-2017, 10:42 PM
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Originally Posted by FrozenTundraGuy
Class III/IV Trailer Hitch, Trailer wiring for 7 & 4 Pin connectors, Auxillary braking wiring connector, upgraded shocks/springs; Heavy Duty Cooling system, and aux trans cooler. Just had to add my brake controller to the dash, and added my WD hitch ball/spring bars and I was ready to tow. also bought the accy tow mirrors which slip over the factory mirror-works nice and no vibration issues.
This may be a stupid question, but did you have to order it that way or are these add ons they can do at the dealership?
Old 04-03-2017, 11:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Crockett0224
This may be a stupid question, but did you have to order it that way or are these add ons they can do at the dealership?

It was a factory option; if you paid the dealer to do it; it probably cost around $3K minimum.
Old 04-03-2017, 11:44 PM
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Default The heavy duty cooling tow package is important

Overheating transmission and engine can cause lots of problems .
But more importantly is stopping power . I hope you have electric brakes and and added brake controller .
Put a drain type pan on your tranny and change fluid at regular intervals. Mine takes 20 quarts and I change 4-5 quarts at a time till shes nice and red .
Should change out every 30k if you are towing .
I do think you best bet is going to be a beefer truck with tow packages .
You can add electric brakes to trailer axles , you can get in trouble with DOT if you have an accident and no trailer brakes .


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