Strik9

so since I bought my 06 F150 5.4 lariat last week, I have noticed that the AC has been intermittent. Sometimes it would blow cool air, but not cold, and other times it would blow air at room temperature. So I took it into the mechanic today and paid him $95 to take a look at it.

He hooked up his tools to the AC system and didn't find any leaks. He said it was low on Freon, so he charged the system until it was full.

So after about 30 minutes of driving since I left the mechanic shop, I noticed the AC is getting colder and colder and it is definitely colder than it was before but it's still it is not reaching that that chill level that you would expect from a properly working AC system.

I did, however, at one point, have to turn down the fan on the AC because it was getting a little chilly inside the cab, for what it's worth.

So is this as good as it's going to get or should I expect it to be cooler? My wife has a 2010 Camry and that thing gets very cold so maybe I have unrealistic expectations for how cold the Ford AC should get?

also I just noticed that the AC only really gets colder is when I am driving around. Sitting at idle it just blows cool, at best. This is after the freon charge maybe 45 minutes ago.

perhaps it will take a few days of driving for the freon to cycle through the system properly and get working fully? I don't know. I would like to know how cold your AC systems get on your trucks. I appreciate any input or advice or opinions. thank you very much for your time!

DarrinT04

my grandpa's 04 XLT 4.6 has been doing the same exact thing. to me it blows cold air when it wants to. half the time it blows hot air. but when it is working right, it is very cold, but doesn't stay cold very long. it also works better when the truck is moving. we havn't looked into it much yet, because we enjoy having the windows down. so your not the only one having this problem

2008__XL

Strik9

So after researching my issue more, it appears that the reason I have no cold AC at idle is because of a bad fan clutch? Apparently there is no air hitting the condenser at idle, which causes the AC to get warm, and it needs airflow in order to get the cool AC going again. And what causes this is a bad fan clutch? Am I understanding this correctly?

However, I went outside and attempted to 'spin' the fan clutch and it has a lot of resistance like it is engaged. The motor was off. It did not spin freely like some people say is indicative of a bad fan clutch. So, I dont know if it is the issue with the fan, or not.

So at this point I am not sure if I should just get a new fan clutch, or possibly try to install an electric fan that will increase HP and MPG (slightly)

Edit: I went outside and tested my radiator fan. I put a stick in it to 'stop' the fan from spinning while truck was running, and the fan had plenty of torque and didnt stop. So I think the clutch is engaged fully. now I am really confused.

Mulestang

The fan clutches on these 5.4s aren't a high fail rate item. The temp drop while moving is not really indicative of a bad clutch. I will say this: the ac refrigerant system is closed. So, if you needed topping off, there's a leak somewhere.

nrivera04

SCORGE

Make sure all of the fins and openings in your condenser are cleaned and don't have dirt/debris in them.

650NutKase

Ok, A/C 101

The f150 has a mechanically driven fan when it is engaged. It will only spin as fast as the engine is turning (RPM). During stop and go traffic, the fan is not spinning as fast as it could, nor is it getting cooler ambient air flowing through the condenser as it would if you were on the highway. You can test this by putting your truck in neutral and revving it up slightly. You should feel the A/C blow colder. The reason the Camry cools 'better' is because the system is more efficient than the f150. The Camry has electric fans that constantly pull cooler air through the condenser. Also, keep in mind, the Camry has less area to cool off vs the truck. If you want the best cooling possible, install the efan conversion. Not only will it help the A/C, but also keep the coolant at a more consistent temperature.

redfishtd

Foam lets lose and blocks flappers on several of these air diverters . There are fixes on you tube to pull foam out of there . You should be getting around 50 out of the vents after awhile of driving if on max .My super crew in fl does just fine after I just recharged it . Auto air different than house air . It is not a hermetically sealed system . You have a seal around compressor shaft that can slowly leak some .
Clean your fins on front make sure rubber sheet at bottom intact keeping air going into condenser ,I had to repair mine it broke loose . Change your antifreeze and keep it in good shape. The coolant saver tank lid is a pressure type ,good to put a new one on it .

digitaltrucker

First, you just cant put gauges on and charge! The system must be evacuated, checked for leaks and then recharged with correct amount listed under the hood. My 08, which I recognized as inferior compared to others, would only produce 40 degrees at the middle vent. I took it in to a shop and the first thing the tech said was, wish mine got to 40!

First step is ensuring correct charge, have it evacuated and weighed back in. My 13 (unrelated i know) has an issue where the coil does not operate at 36-38 degrees as it should.