Help with timing!
#1
Help with timing!
Hi everybody first post-
I couldn't find help on other board so I'm turning to you guys. I own a 2005 Expedition 5.4 3v with 122k on the clock. I started a cam phaser replacement project but realized once took the valve covers off that my passenger side chain arm was broken, completely loose. So now I need to replace the chain arm. Take off the front cover, etc.
How do I secure the cams form turning or losing time? What special tools do I need? And most importantly how do I set timing?
ThAnks,
Danny
I couldn't find help on other board so I'm turning to you guys. I own a 2005 Expedition 5.4 3v with 122k on the clock. I started a cam phaser replacement project but realized once took the valve covers off that my passenger side chain arm was broken, completely loose. So now I need to replace the chain arm. Take off the front cover, etc.
How do I secure the cams form turning or losing time? What special tools do I need? And most importantly how do I set timing?
ThAnks,
Danny
#2
Turn the crank so the crank key is at 12, 3, 6 or 9 o'clock position. Then take the chains off. Don't worry about the cams spinning. When you go to reassemble fold the chain in half mark the links on either end with a paint marker. Put one marked link on the factory marked tooth on the crank sprocket. Hold the chain over the cam sprocket and turn the cam until the factory mark on the sprocket is lined up with the marked link. Hold in place while you install the tensioners and double check that the marks are all still lined up. Done. Timing a mod motor takes about 10 min very easy.
#3
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
I hear vice grips on the cam. Apply them on the non critically machined part of the cam closest to the phaser. It works good to hold the cams while you remove/apply the phaser bolt.
Good luck!
If you do the tensioners, and chains, I'd like to see if you have a revised set that your installing. I hear the new guides are delrin backed by metal.
Good luck!
If you do the tensioners, and chains, I'd like to see if you have a revised set that your installing. I hear the new guides are delrin backed by metal.
Last edited by Especial86; 02-07-2012 at 09:56 AM.
#4
Make sure you change your chains, guides and tensioners.
Very cheap insurance...
Very cheap insurance...
#5
I just did this on my truck.
You'll need:
Timing chain x 2
Timing crank sprocket
Tensioner x 2
Tensioner guide (left and right)
Chain guide (left and right)
Front crank seal
Front timing cover gasket (3 parts)
Valve cover gaskets (left and right)
For special tools you'll need:
Torque wrench
Valve spring compressor (depending)
Pulley puller (harmonic balancer puller)
Impact gun
Knuckles/wobbles to get to the back of the valve covers
The chains will come with colored links so there should be no need to mark or paint anything. Line up the single colored link with the crank sprocket timing mark (a dot on the sprocket. Line up the two colored links with the L on the drivers side and the I on the passengers side. Do both chains at the same time before you turn anything.
Apply assembly grease to all the new parts.
Ensure your tensioner seals are good and bolts are torqued so you don't get tensioner leaks.
Hand crank engine two or three times to ensure theres no valve interference. Also the tension on turning it over should be fairly consistent - it shouldn't get really really hard and really really easy or there might be timing issues with the valves opening at the right time.
With spark plugs removed, crank crank crank the engine to build oil pressure on the tensioners (ensure you have an oil filter with anti drain back). Once again it should crank fairly easy. If it doesn't and your starter is struggling you might have timing issues.
You'll need:
Timing chain x 2
Timing crank sprocket
Tensioner x 2
Tensioner guide (left and right)
Chain guide (left and right)
Front crank seal
Front timing cover gasket (3 parts)
Valve cover gaskets (left and right)
For special tools you'll need:
Torque wrench
Valve spring compressor (depending)
Pulley puller (harmonic balancer puller)
Impact gun
Knuckles/wobbles to get to the back of the valve covers
The chains will come with colored links so there should be no need to mark or paint anything. Line up the single colored link with the crank sprocket timing mark (a dot on the sprocket. Line up the two colored links with the L on the drivers side and the I on the passengers side. Do both chains at the same time before you turn anything.
Apply assembly grease to all the new parts.
Ensure your tensioner seals are good and bolts are torqued so you don't get tensioner leaks.
Hand crank engine two or three times to ensure theres no valve interference. Also the tension on turning it over should be fairly consistent - it shouldn't get really really hard and really really easy or there might be timing issues with the valves opening at the right time.
With spark plugs removed, crank crank crank the engine to build oil pressure on the tensioners (ensure you have an oil filter with anti drain back). Once again it should crank fairly easy. If it doesn't and your starter is struggling you might have timing issues.
#6
Guys, Thanks fro the quick and great responses! I will post pictures of my work! So the crank key can be at 12, 9, 6, 3, I don't have to worry about TDC when I remove?
Danny
Danny
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#8
2005 XLT F150
Is it a good idea to replace chains with a high mileage motor. Along with tensioners and guides if u get s little rattle at startup sometimes. Also good info ill be using on my engine adventure also