I bought some Glowtek LED drops in off of Amazon for $60'ish I believe. Dropped them in my stock housing and could not be happier, they are a far cry from the previous HID projector lights.

 

Check your brake fluid. you may get lucky and be a bit low.

HIDs don't work in stock reflector style housings because the bulbs are actually a capsule of Xenon gas that lights throughout, unlike a filament which is only a thin wire. It changes the output pattern of the bulb itself and produces the scatter others have mentioned.

 

What's the different between LEDs and HID. I saw lots of 4*4 LEDs ads t this forum, have someone replace this LED kits?

 

$700.00 to replace a bulb in the cluster? Yiiiiiikes! Its not hard to do yourself; the cluster has to be removed to get at the bulbs, in the back side of it (cluster). You have to remove the lower dash kick panel (below the steering column); three bolts. Then puull the upper part straight back. This gives you access to the lower screws of the cluster upper dash housing. Remove those. Now put the key in the ignition, and put the gear selector (if you have a column shifter) all the way down. Pull BACK (not up) on the cluster dash cover, then pull it up and remove. There are 4 bolts holding the cluster in the dash. Remove them. Unplug the two top wire harnesses from the cluster (there's a tab you slide back to disconnect each one). As you begin to remove the cluster up and out, the gear selector (column shift models only) display and its cable has to be pulled down and from the cluster; there is a left and right tab; squeeze these in and pull down. The cluster will now easily come out.

On the back side (circuit board side) of the cluster has the tiny bulb sockets that you twist counter clockwise to remove. The bulbs are all the same (except for the bulb that lights up the lower right "information center"). This bulb is a bit longer and has a brighter filiment to be brighter during the day, and dimmer at night. Getting the bulbs is the tricky part. I have a pile of them from doing cluster swap testing years ago. I'm guessing the dealer can get you one, or has them in stock. You could always swap a good bulb (example: use the seat belt warning bulb) and swap it with the burned out gauge one.

 

Yeah. "$700+", the service manager said. He told me they would have to replace the whole instrument cluster. I got it out in about 30 minutes and replaced the bulb. Easy. Thanks to this forum.
I am trying to get the emergency brake warning light to go out now. I have plenty of fluid in the reservoir. The switch under the dash is being activated by the brake pedal. I can feel that. I need to find out if it is working properly. Or maybe it's the sensor under the fluid reservoir?
Oh my, So many things to check.

 

Yeah. "$700+", the service manager said. He told me they would have to replace the whole instrument cluster. I got it out in about 30 minutes and replaced the bulb. Easy. Thanks to this forum.
I am trying to get the emergency brake warning light to go out now. I have plenty of fluid in the reservoir. The switch under the dash is being activated by the brake pedal. I can feel that. I need to find out if it is working properly. Or maybe it's the sensor under the fluid reservoir?
Oh my, So many things to check.

 

Sometimes the brake light is just picky. Some on here have had luck just simply pressing the Ebrake on, then pull up on the ebrake pedal while releasing the ebrake. Some times it just doesn't release all the way?

 

Hi StephenG. Thanks for answering.
No, I can feel the switch with my fingers and push it up all the way into the housing. The emergency brake indicator light on the dash stays on. Is the switch actually working? I have to find that out. Maybe by disconnecting the wires and jumping them. If that isn't the problem I think it must be the sensor under the brake fluid reservoir.
At least the sun is out today here.

 

Only way I know to check that a switch is working properly is with an ohm meter. It will show "open" with that switch plunger out, and closed (meter needle at 0) when the switch plunger is pressed in.

I believe all that switch is doing is applying ground to the bulb in the cluster. The bulb would have power at one side, and the switch applies the ground when the peddle is pushed in (switch closed).

It could also be that the low fluid sensor is bad at the brake master cylinder. I'd have to check my 2007 wiring book to see if the cluster dash light illuminates from both these circuits.

 

Hey, Bucko,

Thanks for the thoughtful ideas.

I started another thread about this brake light indicator light issue. We are in the headlight thread now and that will just keep me more confused than I am already.

Yesterday I tested the brake light indicator switch and it is functioning properly. I will attack the cluster next because I do not know how to remove and/or replace the fluid level indicator under the brake fluid reservoir.