I changed out the easy ones on the front of the engine(the first 4, so cylinders 1,2,5,6).

After I did that I started the truck and it is missing like crazy(at idle the truck is shaking). It had a miss before but now it's horrible. I changed the 4 cylinders to SP515 plugs and did new boots/springs. I also used a nylon brush with carb cleaner on it to clean out the plug holes in the head. Also i tightened to 25 in-lb seems barely hand tight, is that right?

I started the truck halfway through because I sprayed some carb cleaner in the spark plug holes to aid in getting them out. I figured it would be good to start it half way through the plug change to get any carb cleaner out of the engine. This is the second plug change so none broke.

What do I need to check? I already pulled those 4 cylinder COP's and made sure they were connected good and all the electrical connections. I took the truck down the road and it was missing bad and threw a Cylinder 2 misfire code. I'm going to start pulling the plugs now again........

 

You replaced boots and springs. What about COPS?
Did you use dielectric grease?
If the only code is #2 cylinder, replace that COP or switch with another cylinder and see if the code follows. I would troubleshoot and fix this miss before moving on to the rear cylinders.
There are numerous videos on YouTube showing how to do the job and how to troubleshoot the miss.
As for the torque - there are numerous posts showing from 28 ft lbs down to 13 ft lbs.
I used 27 ft lbs on mine and have had no issues.

 

You did ft lbs not inch pounds right? OP says "inch pounds" that's way to loose

 

I did inch pounds, that what my Haynes manual says. I'll redo it in ft-lbs

Also, WTF I fixed it but it makes no friggin sense.

I changed out the new plugs for my OLD ****TY plugs I just pulled out, and it runs 100 times better????

This eliminates the coil and boot/springs. It's the brand new SP515's that are ****ty.

What the HECK?!

I want to use these new plugs, can they be bad???

I'm going to put the new plugs in again, and do 25 ft-lbs. If it runs ****ty again I'm going to return these plugs for a new set. The good news is I can change plugs in like 10 minutes

 

Not likely for the new plugs to be bad.
Put the new ones back in one at a time. That way you will know which one causes the miss - if there is a miss. If the same one that was in #2 cylinder causes a miss again it may be bad.

 

I changed every old plug one at a time with a new plug. I then took the truck for a test drive. The engine ran fine until 1 of the new plugs were in. That new "bad" plug made the engine shake and sputter all over the place. I opened another box of SP515's and put that in to replace the new bad plug, and the truck runs great.

I HAVE A BAD brand new SP515 plug out of the box! Now when I do the HARD plugs in the back I have to change them and test them ONE AT A TIME.

This sucks.......

 

Good news. Glad you found the bad one. Not likely there will be another bad one but stranger things have happened.
I would proceed one at a time with the rest just to avoid a repeat of #2 cylinder and a bad plug.

 

Key to your common sense was it was barely tight . Go with your guts in a case like that . You got blow by carbon on porcelain and maybe some damage on boots , you can clean the plugs but the boots maybe ruined . Big deal they are like 3 bucks each . Clean them all and cops, use new boots . Carbon soot will track like crazy .
We all have a learning curve this one is not that bad . You will never confuse inch and foot pounds again . Loose plugs are a common problem on these engines .
Be careful with starting and having carb cleaner in there, it is flammable ! If this is the second change, did it have the new type plugs in it already ? If so you shouldn't have to deal with breaking plugs or soaking them to get them out of there .
You still have to clean cop contacts ,use a small amount of dielectric grease and clean out carbon in tip area .
These are aluminum heads so yes be careful starting plugs , always start by fingers for the good feel . Stick with 25 to 28 foot pounds . You do not need to use never seize since you cleaned carbon out . It in itself can cause problems if not done correctly . That was a temp fix from ford before they made new plugs . That anti seize(METAL IN IT ) tracks high voltage keep your hands, boots and porcelains clean . If it gets near spark tip it will kill spark .

 

I'm looking at my Chiltons now. I think you got confused on the torque. It's 25ft lbs on the 5.4. If the number has nothing after it it's ft lbs otherwise it's noted at inch lbs as most wrenches don't read correctly under 15ft lbs. For example, the 5.0L is 124in-lbs which is 124/12 = 10.33ft-lbs. Says that at the top. I made that mistake myself at first.

 

You have a bad plug, i have had this issue when working at the dealer, the plug is damaged internally, broken porcelin. replace that one "bad" plug and you will be fine.