Grease around Passenger CV axle
01-29-2013, 08:00 PM
#11
Senior Member
I believe it was somewhere around $60 to $69. No guide done them before. I believe there are some how to's on the internet though. The CV axle is that entire assembly you see. Both boots are part of the cv assembly.
01-29-2013, 08:48 PM
#13
That's the CV boot that's gone bad, not the hub. There's not that much grease in the entire hub, but there is in the CV. Besides, the hub is on the other side of the IWE, so the grease wouldn't get all the way over there. The axles are easy to get out. The hardest part is unbolting them from the differential (bolts tend to get rusty). I'd just replace the axle if it were mine.
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01-29-2013, 09:15 PM
#16
The hub comes as an assembly. Everything is sealed at the factory. Its not as easy as replacing a rotor with the bearing on the rotor. But if you have basic mechanic skills and either air tools or breaker bars, you wont have any issues. If you decide to do the job yourself, give me a holler and i'll guide ya though it. Might take an hour or so. You can find one at the parts store for around 180 bucks. You can get one online cheaper if its shipped to you. It also come with a new ABS sensor. Just remember to count your studs before ordering. They come in 5, 6, and 7, stud I think.
Remove the wheel.
Remove the dust cap and then remove the axle end nut (it's only torqued to 20 ft lbs, so it should come off easy.
Remove the brake caliper (two bolts) and lay it on the lower control arm. Be sure to not let it hang by the brake hose.
Remove the brake pads.
Remove the caliper carrier from the steering knuckle (2 more bolts). Remove the brake rotor.
Remove the 4 bolts from the back side of the steering knuckle that hold the hub in place and it should slide right off the axle. (you will have to disconnect the ABS sensor wire from the truck- they stay connected to the hub and the new hub will come with a new sensor and wire)
Install in the reverse order.
If you are replacing the axle, then you don't need to remove the hub, brake pads, or caliper carrier; but you do need to do the following in addition to above (you still need to remove the brake caliper in order to allow the steering knuckle to swing out far enough to get clearance for the axle- the brake hose is too short):
Remove the outer tie rod end nut with an air impact. Be sure to take the nut all the way off before you separate the tie rod from the steering knuckle. Then take a hand sledge (~5 lb) and smack the steering knuckle perpendicular to the tie rod end where it passes through the knuckle. It might take a couple good whacks. There should be a somewhat flat spot on the knuckle, hit it there. Don't worry, you won't hurt it- they are designed to be taken apart this way.
Separate the upper ball joint the same way you did the tie rod end. It might be a bit more difficult to get an air impact in there because of the shape of the steering knuckle. Have a jack under the lower control arm when you whack the steering knuckle to separate it from the ball joint. Otherwise, the joint will separate with a pop and the lower control arm will slam down from the suspension spring force, likely causing your brake caliper to fall and damage the brake hose. Lower the lower control arm gently on the jack until you reach the limit of the suspension travel.
Remove the three IWE to steering knuckle bolts.
Tilt the steering knuckle out on the lower ball joint and collapse the outer CV joint in toward the center of the truck. This will give you just enough clearance to slip the axle past the hub. You can then remove the inner CV to differential bolts and take the axle completely out of the truck. Either way it won't take more than 20 minutes or so to get it apart.
Use the jack under the lower control arm again to raise the steering knuckle into place as you guide the upper ball joint back into it when you reassemble. The tie rod and ball joint nuts get torqued to 111 ft lbs. No need for an alignment in either case.
Last edited by VTX1800N1; 01-29-2013 at 10:25 PM.
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