This is going to be bad
I have a 2006 XLT in storage. I was only planning on having it in storage for 6 months however that turned into 2 years.
I removed the battery, put fuel stablizer and that's it.
SO it's a mess
and I was wondering what it's going to cost to get her up and running again. I have a list of what I'm thinking needs to be done.
-set of tires
-new battery
-have all fluids drained
-rebuild engine?
Wondering if anyone had any thoughts as to cost of this and if anything else would need to be done for sure.
I removed the battery, put fuel stablizer and that's it.
SO it's a mess
and I was wondering what it's going to cost to get her up and running again. I have a list of what I'm thinking needs to be done.-set of tires
-new battery
-have all fluids drained
-rebuild engine?
Wondering if anyone had any thoughts as to cost of this and if anything else would need to be done for sure.
New set of tires? I'd do a visual inspection on them to make sure they're in good shape otherwise I would replace them. Definitely a new battery if you didn't have it hooked up to an automatic trickle charger. All fluids drained are a must. So that's front and rear differential, transfer case, transmission, engine oil, engine coolant and brake fluid. I wouldn't be too concerned about the power steering fluid necessarily. Rebuild engine? Nope.
Replace fuel filter, air filter, oil change ( do this before you turn it over) as well.... Not sure if our tanks have the anti siphon screen, but try to siphon as much gas out as you can if not.
First things first, inspect the entire vehicle for rodent nests, leaks, corrosion, and charge up the battery.
Check all fluids, make sure the levels and colors look good. Siphon out old gas and put some 89 octane in with a bottle of techron fuel system cleaner.
Pour some marvel mystery oil in with a fresh oil change before you crank it. Use some cheap oil as a rinsing agent, drive 300 - 500 miles and change it again.. (Your oil could be sludged).
As long as your visual inspection checks out with nothing looking suspect, like chewed wires, rodent nests, leaks, or rusting, then the tranny, diffs, coolant, brakes and power steering should be fine.. Change all those fluids after the engine has warmed them up and at least one drive cycle has been had. You can change them all before you drive if you prefer, it just depends on how practical that is going to be for you at a storage unit..
The tires will likely have flat spots in them from sitting, so any vibrations you feel when driving could be that. Change the tires if this occurs or if they appear dry rotted.
Check all fluids, make sure the levels and colors look good. Siphon out old gas and put some 89 octane in with a bottle of techron fuel system cleaner.
Pour some marvel mystery oil in with a fresh oil change before you crank it. Use some cheap oil as a rinsing agent, drive 300 - 500 miles and change it again.. (Your oil could be sludged).
As long as your visual inspection checks out with nothing looking suspect, like chewed wires, rodent nests, leaks, or rusting, then the tranny, diffs, coolant, brakes and power steering should be fine.. Change all those fluids after the engine has warmed them up and at least one drive cycle has been had. You can change them all before you drive if you prefer, it just depends on how practical that is going to be for you at a storage unit..
The tires will likely have flat spots in them from sitting, so any vibrations you feel when driving could be that. Change the tires if this occurs or if they appear dry rotted.
Last edited by Especial86; Feb 24, 2013 at 07:49 AM.
Like they said, oil change and such. The worst issue is the gas. It's most likely bad by now, so drain the tank and change the filter before trying to turn it over. You don't want that gas getting into your fuel system. Hopefully there isn't enough bad gas in your fuel system to cause an issue.
Once you put in fresh gas (fill the tank to dilute anything left), throw some good FI Cleaner in it, like the STP in the black bottle.


