I'm not sure, you might not get a true reading until the thermostat opens, but most people dont' care if their engine is too cold, just too hot.

 

Makes sense to me. I see a lot of the e-fan upgraders use the adapter in the upper hose with no real issues.
On that note...once the engine warms up, the T-stat is never closed 100%...is it? It always is open to allow flow, even if only partial (not considering the bypass).

 

Just thinking aloud...Our instrument panel shows oil press. (analog idiot light) so a good oil pressure gauge is one choice.

I assume the voltage and fuel gauges are accurate analog meters, so no aux is needed.

Is the temp (coolant) gauge an accurate gauge???

If I am right what is needed except trans temp and pressure?

bernie

 

I could have sworn I read in thread here, that water temperature isn't directly measured. It's interpolated from some type of cylinder temp reading. I can't argue the accuracy of the dash gauge. I just hope it isn't a basic switch like oil pressure is. Regardless, I have all the parts to install oil pressure and water temp gauges in my truck. Overkill, but what the heck.

 

Just found this:
The cylinder head temperature (CHT) sensor 4.6L, 5.4L:
-is mounted into the wall of the cylinder head and is not connected to any coolant passages.
-sends a signal to the powertrain control module indicating the cylinder head temperature.
i-f the temperature exceeds 126°C (-258°F) 5.4L, 130°C (265°F) 4.6L, the powertrain control module disables four fuel injectors at a time. The powertrain control module will alternate which four injectors are disabled every 32 engine cycles. The four cylinders that are not being fuel injected act as air pumps to aid in cooling the engine.
-if the temperature exceeds 154 °C (310°F) 5.4L, 166°C (330°F) 4.6L, the powertrain control module disables all of the fuel injectors until the engine temperature drops below 153°C (308°F) 4.6L, 154°C (310°F) 5.4L.
DTCs are set.
-If the engine reaches critical temperature, the following happens:
The coolant temperature gauge pointer will read fully hot at 121°C (250°F).
The check gauge warning indicator will illuminate.

 

Gosh, Who knew that...

This begs the question, How close is the dash temp gauge reading to the coolant temp? Is it just , cold, normal, overheating...

What is the computer sending to the gauge?

Is the voltmeter a true voltmeter? or is it some sort of "computer augmented" reading as well?

Anyone have a schematic of the voltmeter circuit?

Bernie

 

I think this is where I keep coming back to the 'interpolation' factor. I think the ECU converts CHT to ECT. So, I'm not saying that the dash coolant temp isn't accurate...only that it may be nice to know what actual water temp is.

 

CORRECT!!!!!!!

any idea on the volt meter?

I grew up on an ammeter. In today's world that would be a stretch. Imagine running that "thick" cable to the dash and back.

Also had a manifold vacuum gauge (I added it) to try and get better fuel economy from my 1 barrel carb.

bernie

 

Got my gauges installed. Took all day, but I was working off and on between work emails. Took my time and tried to make it a clean install. Drove it around and got it hot. Cold idle oil pressure about 62psi, hot idle 25psi.
I replaced the stock bulbs with LEDS. Not sure if I'm digging how bright they are, but I'm sure it will grow on me.

 

Glad to see you finally got it done. Those gauges look sharp.