2005 F-150 5.4 triton 4x4

So far my time as a ford owner has been absolutely terrible 3 years and only 2000 miles has the truck been drive-able.

ok I was driving up the interstate and my battery started draining slowly, I gave the truck some more gas to raise the rpm’s in hope the alternator would charge and of course the truck died. Pulled over to the shoulder and tried to re-start the engine to the chatter of a bad battery no crank. Get a ride home and grab a new battery to start it and get the vehicle to my place so I can replace the alternator.

With new battery installed I attempted to start the engine and it cranks round and round with no sign of ignition not a pop or anything. The truck was running absolutely beautiful for the first time since I’ve owned it. I put a new engine from Fraser (AER) engines in last August and that engine lasted under 1000 miles before it seized up, so I finally got my warranty engine installed and done last Friday and have put 1000 miles on so far and couldn’t be happier with the results until now.

so I know for sure the alternator is done I need to replace that. I don’t hear my fuel pump anymore since the truck stalled it doesn’t fire up no popping or signs of ignition it cranks fast and strong.

What’s the chances the fuel pump took a crap at the exact same time the alternator went out?

how do I test if it’s the fuel pump module, where’s the fuel pump relay? I didn’t see one in the fuse panel next to the passenger side door?

im sorry for so many questions I’m use to working on Chevys and the fords are a bit different.

thanks for any help I really appreciate it.

 

do you have any DTC's ? fuel pump driver module is located above the spare tire mounted to the frame rail. fuel pump fuses are in the box mounted to the passenger kick panel wall.

And for what it's worth our trucks are very picky on what voltage regulator it has in the aftermarket alternator. Suggest a Motorcraft reman.

 

i have pretty much any tool and access to any diagnostic meter or device I may need. I have a fluke volt/amp/resistance/continuance meter in my garage it will probably need a new battery and some help on how to measure what.

I couldn’t find a fuel pump relay or fuse in the kick panel so was assuming it was located elsewhere due to the cover having a gas pump with a circle around it and a diagonal line going through.

I see the module mounted near or on the rear axle. Should I just order an aftermarket one from rock auto and replace it? Or how is the part troubleshot?

rock auto has a motorcraft alternator and an ac-delco both are remanufactured. The delco is 121 and motorcraft was 180 and some change. That’s the only two brands I’d consider. I have had terrible luck with Bosch and even worse luck with duralast although they have a wicked good warranty it’s just no fun returning the part every 4 months.

the battery is brand new I got the Walmart everlast battery because they had good reviews.

I can order a standard motor products fuel pump module for 40 bucks and some change that’s the part with a heart on it on rock auto. Fuel pump motorcraft brand with sending unit and float was roughly 250 bucks.

I could order all those parts and just chuck in em but I’d rather figure out what the failure is and hopefully not have to spend another small fortune.

so I know I’ll need an alternator that’s bad for sure the and don’t know what one but fuel pump, pump module or relay.

thank you

 

I'm fairly certain there is a fuel pump relay in the fuse block. There is not a way I know of to test the FPDM per se, but you can use a couple jumper wires to bypass it to rule it out of the mix. Just Google FPDM test theres a couple good videos, iirc the connector has 6 pins you just put a jumper between the 2 pins on one side of the connector that is the voltage supply side and then another jumper between the 2 pins on the other side to connect the ground and leave the middle 2 pins alone

But the absolute easiest thing to do first is just to use a scanner with live data to check the fuel pressure reading from the frps. The fuel pump on my truck is much quieter than the one on my 94 f150 was, that one you could easily hear prime when you turn the key on, this 04 not so much for me so don't assume it's bad because you don't hear it.

 

Yes... pull your codes if any DTC's then pull the FPDM and see if the back side of it is still intact.

 

Fuse box (Central Junction Box) is located behind the plastic kick panel (floor level) on passenger side. Fuse 9 is for the fuel pump. Inside of the CJB cover will identify fuse locations.

 

Ok I havent had time to go out and dig into the pump issue as of yet. I learned something exciting just now by studying up on the internet, these trucks have a fuel pump reset switch (inertia switch) that could trip as well and the relay is un-serviceable or pullable. The 20 amp fuse will be easy enough to check that will be first on my list followed by that reset switch which kind of makes sense since right before the truck died I revved the engine pretty decently trying to get the alternator charging. If neither the fuse is bad or the pump reset switch does the trick I will pull codes and take a look at the module.

thank you everyone for all the help.

 

I put a new module in the truck, the old module was corroded badly and my finger pushed through the backside when removing. The truck still didn’t have any fuel flow.

I thought to myself how did I prime the oil pump when I installed the previous engine and I recalled that I had disconnected the crank sensor and thought to inspect that sensor, upon doing so I grabbed the wiring and it came falling off not even connected. Pushed the connector on and the truck fired up.

the mechanic shop that installed the warranty engine either made an honest mistake of not connecting the plug onto the sensor or an educated guess that it would blow in the wind loose connection and I’d have them tell me a fuel pump was gone and bend me over for replacement, whichever the case shame on them.

Now all I have left to correct is the wires for the IMRC rods routing, pulling the upper intake forward to re-rout and the truck should be 100 percent back to standard. That’s why I hate going to mechanics it seems every time I do I just end up fixing what I paid for the correct way or something else pops up.

 

Glad you got her fired up...

 

When I replaced my alternator a few weeks back a whole whack of little gremlins immediately went away lol. I had no idea the alt was an issue till all of a sudden complete lack of amps so of course I replaced battery as it was cold out and I was lazy and didn't check first and problems still so did some interweb searching and diagnosed it as alt and after new one on the weird phaser noise went away and engine was pretty much reborn, hell even my radio got better signal lol.

So yah replace alt with NEW one then see how she runs.

Cheers


EDIT: Welp never mind lol. Glad she's running again.