I had my tranny flushed at my ford dealer at 26k miles and 2k miles later the tranny was fried. The tranny was replaced. Never again for me.

 

To keep it simple, a pan drop and drain will only remove about 4 to 5 quarts tops. The torque converter holds about 6 quarts, so I would not waste my money on a pan drop/drain. Mixing 4 fresh quarts to 6 old quarts is a waste IMO. You would'nt drain 3 quarts of motor oil then add three would you?

Like I mentioned, my Ford dealership in Lewisville Texas runs monthly adds. They email them to their customers that sign up. About 7 months ago, they were running a full automatic transmission flush for $89.00. I had it done. About 4 months ago, they ran a rear end fluid change special; had that done.

About every 3 to 4 months they run a $19.95 oil and filter change using the FoMoCo filter and semi-synthetic; they get my business for that too! I almost could'nt do it myself for that price, as I don't have to worry about taking the used oil to the recycle tanks.
I guess some dealers work a bit harder for your business. Lewisville Ford will be seeing me one of these days when I'm ready to buy the new 2011 5.0 Mustang....400 ponies. Even the new V6 gets over 300 HP!

 

So your attributing the failure to the flush. Why is that? How could removing hydraulic fluid (which has been heated and cooled many times and contaminated with worn clutch material) and replacing it with fresh hydraulic fluid cause a failure?

 

Some have claimed that if a flush is done incorrectly (referred to as a "backflush"), then the worn clutch material can become lodged in the tiny fluid channels of the transmission. I have not experienced this, and can say I've always had my automatic transmissions flushed every 30 to 40K. I've done this for the past 6 or 7 vehicles I've owned. Never have had a transmission failure.

I also swear by a transmission cooler; heat will also distroy an automatic transmission.

 

I did a pan drop on mine because I changed the pan to a deeper pan that hold like 2-3 more quarts of fluid for cooling. the previous owner had the transmission flushed at 90K, then I dropped the pan and put a new pan on at 115K, no problems afterward. I put a new filter in it, and inspected all the inside parts and removed tha factory white plug inside (it causes no harm in there) BTW. It's just a matter of preferrence I guess, and a flush seems better to me, but I voted drain and change the filter. Just my preference though, altogether with pan, fluid, and filter costed me like ~165 or so. But, I got a deeper pan with extra cooling capacity.

Like I said, flush is most likely better, but I never have done one and the transmission always seems to be fine. My wifes car will go to the shop, and I am going to get them to flush it. The pan is to hard to get to on that car.

 

I agree, a transmission cooler helps extend the life by many miles, it's proven. I think I am going to do the same as you on the transmission on my wifes car though (Hyundai Sonata), 30-40K seems to be a good mark to flush the transmission.

 

I suggest you look into a package that most dealers have and other shops. I just got all my fluids changed. Trans flush, transfer change, both diffs all for 160 at a dealer.My trans fluid was supposed to be good for 100000 and it was done at 30000 and it now had 128000 so i had everything changed. It runs good but the dealer was worried. He showed me the first five minutes of flush it was coming out black. It was because its been so long and that fluid first coming out had the lowest pressure in the system and it did not circulate that well. It was in the radiator and cooler. It runs fine now though and it does not shift hard now. I will for sure do it around 40000 miles now. I plan on getting a new pan with a drain plug so i can do it myself.

 

I'd prefer drain and fill. I'm a mechanic in the National Guard and that's what we do. It's quick easy and relatively painless lol. You can do it yourself and not even take a whole afternoon.

 

Oh and for those of you without a drain plug... crack all the bolts loose and then pick either the front or back to take out first and the pan will sag that direction and start draining. It's a bit more messy but if you don't want to go buy a new pan with a drain plug that's a quick way to do it.

 

and you quoted me for what reason? You didnt speak upon anything I did so...?