I just spoke with tech support and they are going to send me a new controller, I must say they are being very helpful with the whole situation and they think the problem is the controller malfunctioning when it activates via ac clutch, they say it's a rare case but it could happen.

I will go as far as buying crimp and solder connectors and installing the new controller...if the fuse gets hot again (wich I believe it will) i will go my own way and install two controllers one for each fan , another advantage with this idea is that if something happens to one fan circuit the other will still be enough to avoid leaving me stranded.

 

Im convinced the best way to do this mod is by using a pulse width modulation type controller that can soft start the motor to reduce the LRA and vary the fan speed based on cooling demand.
If only someone made this....

 

the controllers are pwm

 

You have a loose/bad electrical connection at or near the fuse/ within 1 foot or so of the fuse. Test resistence in the circuit.

 

thanks for the sugestion.. every crimp connection has been carefully done ,resistance tests on the wiring yielded nothing, here's a picture of my ratcheting crimping tool I use at work on almost a daily basis and I trust it very much


Uploaded with ImageShack.us

 

There is resistance, trust me, maybe in the fuse area itself. Test circuit with an ohm meter. You should have almost no resistance. 4/10 ohms would begin heat. You do have the power at the motors first don't you. That way they get that surge current, what they need to spin up. Otherwise the circuit will not stand the load. Power is available at the motor and is controled after the fact at the PWM.

 

^^Power is direct to the motor and so is ground , both have been taken from battery ... I even tought of checking my battery 750 cold cranking amps but she's less than a year old!!

 

This is the exact reason I chose Troyer over Flex-a-Lite.... Independent fan operating on independent controllers..

 

What guage wire are you using to the fuse? Even the best crips are not recommended on this type of install. You never see them used at the factory....

Solder and heat shrink connections for this type of install. I'll also assume the controller you are using has relays used for the power delivery?

Remember, the efan startup current draw is much more initially; this is why it's important to always use a controller with efans. The good ones allow for this.

 

Bucko is spot on. Navigate to top of this page, in search box type : pictures of flex a lite installation, there are many threads with more info there. I would put my DC amp meter over the wires and measure the current draw and current return to the ground side. Sounds like a #8 power supply cables to me.
_________________________________________
Women might not find ya handsome, but they"ll find ya in your F150
Ford Built_Ford Tough